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Post by runningslow on Sept 14, 2010 8:36:28 GMT -6
I agree, in this case, you'd want them in parallel. My only concern would be with the charging system on the bike keeping both of them fully charged? Or are you going to rely on the trickle charger to keep them both fully charged?
Although, if the charging system on the bike works and keeps them both maintained... I have a second battery I could install on my bike. ;D
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hybrids
by: runningslow - Sept 14, 2010 6:01:35 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Sept 14, 2010 6:01:35 GMT -6
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Post by runningslow on Sept 13, 2010 18:37:20 GMT -6
Stubborn frigging bolt!!  Still not coming out.... I did however get the 11 pole stator installed. |
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Post by runningslow on Sept 13, 2010 14:11:18 GMT -6
Sounds like your list is good. hafe you tried some "liquid wrench" on the bolt? The bolt should be easy to replace once you get it off. just a thought, is it a left handed bolt? (probably not, but you never know). I used some PB Blaster on it last night. Let it soak for a few minutes, but still nothing. I thought about trying to heat it up, but I don't own a torch of any kind. Actually, would a camping lighter get it hot enough? I know its a normal right hand thread, because the other banjo bolt came out just fine. It took some effort to break loose, but it did break loose. |
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Post by runningslow on Sept 13, 2010 6:17:56 GMT -6
Now that I've had some time to digest everything and I've calmed down from stripping a bolt head.... I have one thing to say: Thanks, Rich!
I'll swap the old 11 pole stator onto the new motor this evening. If it is in fact bad, it looks like I can replace it for around $45 (shipped) from ebay.
I'm still not sure what to do about the stripped bolt... stupid Chinese hardware. I've already tried vice grips... that only made it worse. Its also not like its your average run of the mill of the bolt. A little bit of googling I come to find it called a "banjo bolt". A hollow bolt, with a hole near the head. Hopefully, once I've got it out I can go down to AutoZone and find a replacement.
Question: Taking into consideration that these oil hoses have banjo fittings on both ends, does anyone have a thought as to how I may be able flush the hoses? Since I'm going to be using the original hoses, I want to make sure they're free and clear of any of any little metal shavings. Or, am I just being too cautious and I should not worry about it and just frequently change the oil for the break-in period?
Checklist to a running scoot:
1) Remove and replace stripped banjo bolt
2) Install oil cooler with original longer oil lines
3) Swap 11 pole stator from old motor
4) Replace fuel filter
5) Clean carb
6) Fresh tank of gas
7) Double check all the Wiring
8) ....
9) Profit! ;D
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Post by runningslow on Sept 12, 2010 18:03:58 GMT -6
As excited as I am to have my new motor and I want to get it running ASAP, I've just been so busy this past week and its still so bloody hot in my garage. My reluctance is tearing into a brand new motor, even if I'm just pulling the flywheel.
I'm not convinced the old 11 pole was working right. I thought I was having some charging issues before all my problems. We'll see, since it looks like I'll be making the swap tomorrow.
Other issues: I've already completely stripped a bolt on the new one, too. I'm trying to swap out the oil cooler hoses for those from the old motor. The lines that came with the new one were too short to reach to the original mounting position. I stripped one of the heads trying to remove it.
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Post by runningslow on Sept 12, 2010 14:05:56 GMT -6
Technical Difficulties: Ok, so I'm going to reconnect all the wiring and I stumble into this. The wires coming from the flywheel on the new motor do not match the wires on the old motor. I'm guessing this means the new motor doesn't have the same stator as the old one? I don't want to tear it apart to find out, yet. I had an 11 pole on the old one. The new motor, the main connector has a green, yellow and white wires:  The old motor, that same connector has 3 yellow wires and a green:  So, of course the mating end on the bike matches the old motor: (I assure you it has three yellow wires, but I had to double check after seeing this pic)  Is there a way to splice these wires to make it work? |
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Post by runningslow on Sept 11, 2010 5:53:25 GMT -6
Scootaway - you know more about the origins of the National Anthem that a lot of the college students I teach. Thank You! I whole heartedly believe that most immigrants know more about American history than those who were born here. I don't think most Americans would be able to pass the knowledge tests that are given during the Naturalization process. Sad, but true.  |
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Post by runningslow on Sept 10, 2010 11:21:01 GMT -6
As promised, some pictures. I don't have any of it with the motor mounted, since it was way too dark by the time I was done. I was expecting to see in some robust packaging, but for the most part it looks like it arrived in good shape. I'm not a fan of the chrome CVT cover. I'll probably swap it out for my original UM branded one. It has a drum brake, which I may or may not use. For now, I'm going to try to use my disc brake, but I may try to use the drum, since I've had issues with that rear caliper before. All I would need would be a new left brake lever and the cable for it. When I mounted it, I just left the brake shoes in place. The wheel slipped right over it. Motor in the box:  Oil cooler that got banged up during the shipping:   Speedo Cable:  |
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Post by runningslow on Sept 9, 2010 19:25:53 GMT -6
Motor is here and I got it mounted on the bike!!! ;D
I'll post some pictures later.
Now, I've got to put the wiring all back together, then try to fire it up. That probably won't be until some time on Sunday. I'll have to study the wiring diagrams here on ScooterDoc to make sure I get it right.
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Post by runningslow on Sept 9, 2010 9:36:14 GMT -6
I have a a few questions which I can't really find an answer for. These will come in handy when I get started with my reassembly (hopefully tonight):
1) When mounting the rear tire, should I lube the axle at all?
2) I'm also replacing my speedo cable. Should I put any sort of lube into hub on the front axle?
I'm assuming that everything else should just be the reverse of removal: plug wiring harnesses back together, bolting things back up, etc...
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Post by runningslow on Sept 9, 2010 6:05:50 GMT -6
Sep 9, 2010 4:38 AM - On FedEx vehicle for delivery - ORLANDO, FLI know what I'm doing tonight! ;D (That is... If I don't have anything else come up : 
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Post by runningslow on Sept 8, 2010 12:56:41 GMT -6
I got this one in my e-mail at work awhile back.
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Post by runningslow on Sept 8, 2010 12:56:05 GMT -6
Engineering Math Question. Conditions: A backhoe weighing 22 tons is on top of a lowboy trailer and heading east on Interstate 70 near Hays, Kansas. The extended shovel arm is made of hardened refined steel and the approaching overpass is made of commercial-grade concrete, reinforced with 1 1/2 inch steel rebar spaced at 6 inch intervals in a criss-cross pattern layered at 1 foot vertical spacing. Solve: When the shovel arm hits the overpass, how fast do you have to be going to slice the bridge in half ? (Assume no effect for headwind and no braking by the driver...) Extra Credit: Solve for the time and distance required for the entire rig to come to a complete stop after hitting the overpass at the speed calculated above. (Yes, you can neglect friction.)    I couldn't solve it either......but who cares; The pictures are great! The driver was on his cell phone.................. |
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Post by runningslow on Sept 8, 2010 12:46:26 GMT -6
Hmm... Is this going to be anything like the Eddie Murphy movie "Coming to America"?
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