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Post by Jeff on May 15, 2011 15:39:22 GMT -6
I'm a pretty good mechanic but fail at electrical. I have taken all the electrical tape off the wires where they exit the plastic tube that carries them to the front of the scoot. There are lots of splices at this point. One of the red wires is split into three, one of which goes to the diode. Back at the battery there is a red wire that connects to the positive terminal and it has an inline fuse, and I think this is the same red wire that exits the tube up front and splits into three.
Here's the thing that is baffling me. I decided to take everything out of the loop that I could, so I disconnected everything up front. The short harness going to the ignition switch, the 2 harnesses going to the handlebar controls, the headlight harness, the instrument harness, all disconnected. Only the fuse box is still connected. At the battery the negative lead is attached while the positive lead is disconnected. If I touch that thin red fused wire to the positive terminal, the rear running light comes on. It does this whether the diode is in or not.
Does this give you any insight? I can't trace this issue to the ignition switch or the passing switch or to any of the other things because I've taken them all out of the loop. No connectors are connected improperly because they are all disconnected.
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Post by Jeff on May 13, 2011 20:49:27 GMT -6
I'm back at it now and will work on it as much as needed this weekend. This thing needs to be done.
I didn't even put a key in the ignition. Just connected the battery and all the lights come on, with or without the diode in place. Also tried the new diode, no difference. So new diode and no diode did not make a difference.
Not sure if I should be looking at the passing switch or the ignition first, but I guess I'll just start cutting tie straps and sorting through the wires looking for something obvious.
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Post by Jeff on May 11, 2011 21:48:29 GMT -6
It's kinda nice to drive the truck once in awhile. Been using it for commuting a bunch in the last month while I work on the scoot, and fuel fill-ups are killing me. But when I can commute with the scoot every day, and even get groceries on the way home, the truck gets little use. A couple of times I hadn't used it in nearly a month and felt a little weird driving it. Is this my truck? it's comfy with the bucket seats and stereo, lol. It's 6 years old and has 50k on it. I'll keep it around but it's a good feeling to not have to depend on it and pay for the gas it sucks up.
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Post by Jeff on May 11, 2011 12:27:59 GMT -6
Is the run/kill switch in the run position? Red toggle switch near the throttle.
Also it may need to be up the center stand, some scoots are like that.
Rear brake lever pulled in too.
Sorry, gotta list the basics first...
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Post by Jeff on May 11, 2011 6:55:28 GMT -6
By all lights I mean headlights, running lights front and rear, and instrument lights. No brake lights or high beams. During my recent and overdue PDI, I looked at all the wiring connectors, most if not all, are unique in some way that wouldn't allow you to plug one connection into another. I think I did disconnect and reconnect most of them to insure they were tight.
I may not have time until the weekend to take another look, but I'll check all the connections again. I had also ordered a new diode prior to checking mine so I'll try it when it arrives. The high beam switch and the passing switch both work as they should when the scoot is running.
One thing to note: One of my headlight bulbs is acting strange. When I hit the high beams, it goes completely off. I think this this is just a bad element in the bulb though, as the other one works fine. I have 2 new bulbs to throw in there and will before I put this back together.
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Post by Jeff on May 10, 2011 7:30:24 GMT -6
Might try a Heli-Coil insert in the stripped hole. As for the gasket, it it is a quality gasket you shouldn't need any sealant, but some folks use a very light smear of sealant on both sides of the gasket. A good gasket and the proper torque on the bolts should be sufficient.
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Post by Jeff on May 10, 2011 7:17:17 GMT -6
Bought a cheap digital multimeter and it shows the diode to be ok, current only goes in one direction. I've looked at the wires on the scoot and don't see anything amiss, no fraying of wires, plastic connectors seem good and tight. I will tear more into the wiring harness unless someone has another idea. From the research I've had to do on this, it seems the diode or the connections at the diode are the only thing that could cause all lights to be always on.
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Post by Jeff on May 9, 2011 11:23:43 GMT -6
damin69, yes that's the adjuster screw. Don't need to turn it very much, just a little bit will move the headlights a fair amount.
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Post by Jeff on May 8, 2011 22:47:22 GMT -6
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Post by Jeff on May 8, 2011 20:20:25 GMT -6
My Vog is still stripped down of all plastic. All the repairs and maintenance I've had to do has taken much longer than expected. <sigh>
Anyway I'm ready to put things back together and find I have a dead battery. I jumped it off my truck (truck not running) and the scoot started right up. Rode it naked for a bit to charge the battery. I've now realized that the headlights and running lights are on even with no key in the ignition, have to disconnect the battery to turn everything off. The only thing electrical related I have done is fabricate a new mount for the rectifier which is located up under the dash. The original mount broke at the weld joint so the rectifier was just hanging by the wires. Didn't know this until I had all the plastic off the front. The wires seemed to be ok though.
Is it a bad ignition switch, or should I be considering something else?
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Post by Jeff on May 8, 2011 20:10:36 GMT -6
On the Vog, the headlight assembly is a "bucket within a bucket" design, and there is a single adjustment screw on the back that when turned, adjusts the inner bucket up or down. So one screw for both lights, not independent.
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Post by Jeff on Apr 30, 2011 12:49:50 GMT -6
I thought about the sliders, but I first want to see what if any difference I feel with the stock rollers and the proper grease. The flat spots are very minor at this point, and now that I've been in there, taking it apart again to install sliders will be trivial. The belt is a 871 x 23 and it looks like new but I didn't measure it. I need to get one of those cheap digital calipers next time I'm at Harbor Freight.
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Post by Jeff on Apr 30, 2011 11:04:22 GMT -6
After cleaning and using lithium grease for the rollers. Even this much grease is probably overkill but not too much. The rollers weighed 14g and had very slight flat spots developing after 5000 miles. All the grease the factory put in there didn't stop the rollers from getting flat spots. I thought the factory might have done it to reduce noise but I think they're just clueless. Attachments:
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Post by Jeff on Apr 30, 2011 10:58:28 GMT -6
Update: Fixed my air wrench and it wouldn't budge my nuts either. Got the torch out and heating the variator nut for 15 seconds at a time, then hitting it with the electric wrench, it took about a minute and a half of heat and the nut finally came off. The nut on the clutch never came off. I heated it for probably ten minutes or more, it was extremely hot and smoking, and still wouldn't budge with either wrench. The variator nut was the most important so I'm glad that one came off. I didn't really need to remove the clutch, just wanted to inspect it and be able to better clean out the inside of the variator case but I worked around that. The only way that clutch nut is coming off is with a much bigger impact tool plus heat and I'm not going to bother with it at this point. I have a nut breaker tool and a dremel so I thought about cutting it off but I'd have to go to a yamaha dealer for replacement nuts. So here's a picture of the inside of the variator. Unreal how much grease is in there. I could spoon it out. It was so much that it was actually leaking out of the variator outer cover which had a poor gasket. I thought the leak was due to an engine or tranny seal leak into the variator housing but it was just variator grease. Attachments:
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Post by Jeff on Apr 30, 2011 9:59:10 GMT -6
Adjust the valves, clean out the cvt, check/replace the vacuum/fuel lines and fuel filter(s). You've already done everything else except paint it red.
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