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I ride in a mix of surface streets and freeway in my 33 mile round trip commute and I get a consistent 65mpg. If I take a long mostly highway trip where I use a whole tank (about 200+ miles) I get 70mpg.

I have 5000 miles on it now just recently adjusted the valves for the first time. The intake was perfect and the exhaust was just a bit tight. It does start just a bit easier after that adjustment. The only thing I did with the air/fuel screw was to check where it was set at, which was about 2-1/4 turns out, and I left it there.

BTW, don't go by your odometer unless you know for certain that it is correct. Both my speedo and the odometer are optimistic by 9.2% so I have a spreadsheet that takes this into account when I plug my numbers in at each fillup. Going by the odometer I'm showing I get 70+mpg but my real mileage based on actual miles driven is 65mpg.

I do use the odometer though for keeping track of how much fuel is in the 3.4 gal tank, since my gas gauge isn't even close to accurate and in fact recently stopped working altogether. I've run mine down to just fumes a couple of times to see how many miles I can go on a tank. The most I've gone is 220 *indicated* miles, so when I fill up I write the current odometer reading down and add 200 to it and keep that number in the glove box.

I just put new tires on it front and rear so will be interesting to see if they affect the mileage. Oh, one other thing, lower grade fuel will give you better mpg. I used to burn 91 grade, then went to 89 and saw my mileage jump quite a bit, and finally I went to 87 and the mileage went up a bit more. The scoot doesn't ping, in fact I think it prefers 87, it runs great.

Usually a blown head gasket leaks water into the combustion chamber, in this case it seems the head bolts aren't tight and allowing coolant to leak outside the head, but, if you just changed the coolant then it would be yellow fluid. I have no ideal what red fluid would be. On a car, red fluid is transmission fluid but that doesn't apply here. At any rate I would torque the head bolts down and see if it still leaks.

So it turns over but doesn't start, probably should check for spark at the plug. You have quite the electrical thing going on here... I think it it's odd having two yellow wires on the same fuse. All 4 wires on one side of the box should be hot and that's usually red or black/red. Wish I could help...

The TBX260 is supposed to be exactly the same as a Vog, but I can't be certain of the windshield. Having said that, the Vog windshield is identical to a 2003-2006 Burgman 400 windshield, so if you can find a used B400 windshield, it will fit a Vog and should fit the TBX260 if they are the same.

I can tell you that the 1/4 plexiglass bend your own option will not work in this situation. I don't think my windshield is 1/4 thick, and it has multiple compound curves in it. If the windshield is not perfectly formed, and not the correct thickness, you will not get the trim to go back on.

$60 is actually pretty cheap for a new windshield. You could pay a whole lot more than that.

I don't think it's the same physical size. You should pull yours out to check wires and sizing/bolt locations, etc.

TBX-260 is supposed to be the same as the Vog, but I can't be certain of the wiring. On the Vog the Rectifier/Regulator as well as the CDI are under the windshield. Remove windshield and the painted metal part under it. It is a 2 plug, six wire rectifier and you should get it from here www.bmsmotorparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/1191

Sure looks like a Parking Light thingy.

In a pinch you could probably get them from a Yamaha dealer, though it would no doubt cost more. I also tried Ace but couldn't match the pitch. Never thought of Napa.