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Post by jomama0867 on May 30, 2020 9:39:07 GMT -6
Yes! The steering "column" is basically a normal scooter setup, only instead of forks it attaches to a bracket holding the ends of the two tie rods. Additionally, I discovered the turning problem! There is a block mounted to the vertical shaft in between the a-frame that acts as a "stop" for the wheel. This block had sheared the bolt that attaches it, and got wedged in the bearings.
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Post by jomama0867 on May 19, 2020 10:14:27 GMT -6
Hey gang! I've got a DF50TKA (Sunny) trike that quit turning right. It happened on the middle of a ride on pavement (aloft of "streets" around here are dirt). I checked the obvious (a-frames, tie rods, etc.), and after lifting the front end, the "tilt" is still normal. The right turn is still full, but when rotating the bars, it goes to center and stops dead. I'm getting ready to remove the tie rod to determine whether the problem is in the vert. Wheel shafts or the center shaft. Anyone have any ideas?
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Post by jomama0867 on May 19, 2020 10:13:40 GMT -6
Hey gang! I've got a DF50TKA (Sunny) trike that quit turning left. It happened on the middle of a ride on pavement (aloft of "streets" around here are dirt). I checked the obvious (a-frames, tie rods, etc.), and after lifting the front end, the "tilt" is still normal. The right turn is still full, but when rotating the bars, it goes to center and stops dead. I'm getting ready to remove the tie rod to determine whether the problem is in the vert. Wheel shafts or the center shaft. Anyone have any ideas?
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 30, 2019 16:02:17 GMT -6
As some of you know, I've been working on scoots for a few years now, and during that time I've seen most of the wiring diagrams out there. Why is the factory tach wiring always left out? Most of the bikes I've worked on have them, complete with harness connections, yet I have yet to find a diagram showing the routing.
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 17, 2019 12:25:22 GMT -6
I have a line on TWO 2008 Qlink 150cc Pegasus scooters for a REALLY good price. I don't expect them to be flawless, but here's the thing . . . About a month ago one of these came up for sale (same year and similar shape as these) over 300 miles away and was sold in less than 8 hours. These have been listed for almost a month and are still available. My question is, am I missing some mysterious little-known secret about these scoots? I mean, who WOULDN'T be interested in a 150cc water-cooled bike with 16" wheels?
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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 14, 2019 7:40:44 GMT -6
Yeah, that was my guess too. I wonder what system it affects to have that kind of reaction from the scooter (it still starts and runs when it's plugged in, just runs very lathargic)! Oh well, I've gotten pretty good at ignoring what I don't understand . . . just ask my EX!!
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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 10, 2019 8:12:14 GMT -6
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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 7, 2019 8:19:19 GMT -6
Hows this?
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Post by jomama0867 on Oct 6, 2019 10:22:37 GMT -6
Does anyone know what this box is? I've never run across it on any other scooters and it's got me puzzled. It's the size of an R/R, and has a 2-wire connector. The closest plug has 2 wires: Black/Red and Green/White. After searching some wiring diagrams, the only component I found different was something called a "speed limit (selectable unit)" ?!? All I know is when I plug it in, the scooter runs like CRAP! THE ONLY MARKINGS ON IT ARE (OF COURSE) IN CHINESE!
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Post by jomama0867 on Sept 27, 2019 6:06:55 GMT -6
Right again, Cyborg . . . SERIOUSLY high compression! I put the 50mm head back on and the ignition sounds "normal". Now all I have to do is get replacement valves, etc., etc.
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Post by jomama0867 on Sept 19, 2019 14:49:27 GMT -6
Thanx Cyborg, I thought about the plug interference and pulled the head but didn't see any obvious signs of contact on the piston, valves or plug. I usually work on 150's so when I hooked up the compression tester and got a reading of 80 psi, I didn't know if that was good or bad (but I didn't consider it high)!. I put a stock 50cc head on to diagnose, but will have a new BBK head tomorrow (Friday), so I'll wait until then, put the correct head on, and try again!
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Post by jomama0867 on Sept 18, 2019 15:31:24 GMT -6
I'm working on a Sunny DG50TKA reverse trike (2012 with only 300 miles on it). The previous owner put a BBK kit on it (50mm), and it was running but VERY hard to start. He would crank the starter for 20-30 seconds before it would "catch", and finally clipped a valve, which left him with no compression (go figure). So, as I'm swapping heads to get it running I've come across a situation I haven't seen (or heard of), so I am convinced that one of you "gurus" has the answer; here goes:
When I crank it over, the starter bogs down as if the battery was low, but the battery tests fine. Also I noticed the wires from the battery were warm, so I checked the battery grounds, changed coils, even changed starters but no change. When I put a fresh battery in ther was no difference, still bogs down on cranking. So here's where the weird part comes in, I pull the spark plug and screw in my compression tester hose, open the throttle and hit the switch, and it turns over COMPLETELY NORMAL (although it doesn't start of course)! I re-install the plug and wire, and it bogs! I've tried this with the plug wire, without the plug wire, changing spark plugs, WOT, no difference. Checked valves, even changed cams {?!??!), NO DIFFERENCE, but all I have to do is check compression and it cranks normal!! Any ideas??
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Post by jomama0867 on Mar 21, 2019 8:28:17 GMT -6
I was looking at a 250cc Rokita "parts" scooter the other day (no title), and was wondering if anyone out there has put one in a 150cc frame? Also any mods that were necessary to make it work!
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Post by jomama0867 on Mar 10, 2019 12:56:23 GMT -6
I recently discovered my tail light socket fried. I replaced the socket, but not before it shorted. Now my lights dim everytime I hit the brakes (also they dim as the turn signals wink). I have jad this issue before on other scoots, but never had this type of reaction. Any thoughts?
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Post by jomama0867 on Aug 20, 2018 3:33:14 GMT -6
"snaker" was absolutely correct . . . the different colored wires ARE the same as three yellows!! FYI, I upgraded from a single-phase to three-phase stator and had to change R/R's. Everything works GREAT now!
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