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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 20, 2017 21:13:51 GMT -6
Thanks cyborg . . . I figured you might respond, and I love the idea of the preload pipe! I guess you lost me at the 15 or 20 with belray though?!?
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 20, 2017 18:45:47 GMT -6
Hello to all and HAPPY NEW YEAR! Has anyone out there had any experience with rebuilding front forks? I recently noticed seals leaking, and when I approached the subject with some local GY6 enthusiasts, they all replied "who rebuilds? just buy new ones"! That seems easy enough, but anyone who has read my threads KNOWS that it's just not my style . . . besides, why spend $75 on new forks when I could spend $8 on new seals! I've seen a few youtube vids on the subject and compared to my engine rebuild, it seems fairly straight-forward. My question is: for 18 1/2 inch forks, how much oil should I be replacing (judging by the mess on them now, I know whatever I drain won't be the full amount)! Also, any thoughts on changing the springs?!?
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Post by jomama0867 on Dec 4, 2016 3:46:28 GMT -6
I've wondered that myself, but certain "gurus" on this site set me straight, so in their honor I'll try to pass it along; the headlights (and every other light on the scooter) is actually running on DC power . . . it's just "rectified" DC power. The stators on these scooters are designed to create AC power. This is routed to the Regulator/Rectifier (the small ribbed component on your wiring harness somewhere), where it is converted to DC power and dispersed to the other areas of the scooter. The "regulator" component insures that the DC power it releases DOESN'T (or shouldn't) fry the other parts. The leftover DC power it converts runs back to your battery to recharge it. I had a similar problem on my scoot, and it ended up being a bad Regulator/Rectifier!
P.S.- I assume I'll be corrected if my explanation isn't OEM!
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Post by jomama0867 on Dec 4, 2016 3:18:23 GMT -6
I agree with the ground theory . . . I had a similar situation on mine, and found all kinds of "grounding" issues everywhere! As we all know, most of the components on these things are plastic, which doesn't allow frame grounding and forces every electrical component to have it's own ground connection. It seems that the "chinese" method to solve this is to gather all of the ground wires into a bundle somewhere and connect them to a single wire (usually with a TINY drop of solder) to run through the scoot. Mine had loose wires in those "bundles" in several different areas, therefore not grounding that component (must be a communist plot)!
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 18, 2016 18:39:07 GMT -6
Does anyone out there happen to know which camshaft is stock on a factory GY6 150cc (A8, A10, etc.)?
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Post by jomama0867 on Aug 17, 2016 17:36:54 GMT -6
Listen to the majority of members on the scooter sites . . . as long as you keep up the maintenance, they will last a long time! I just turned 15,500 miles on my Chinese EVO 150, and it's my daily (and ONLY) mode of transportation! My best advice, other than the obvious stuff, is change the oil and change it OFTEN (mine holds less than a quart, so I buy the best NON-SYNTHETIC oil on the shelf and change it all the time . . . sometimes every month; what's a quart of oil cost?). Also, you are doing yourself a GREAT service by learning to do work yourself; scooter mechanics are usually hard to find (especially reputable ones)! The engines are extremely easy to work on, and parts are relatively cheap.
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Post by jomama0867 on Aug 11, 2016 3:22:57 GMT -6
I've had success in the past by using a couple of solid wire "jumpers" placed in the plug for the bad switch going to a toggle switch for a temporary fix . . . worked fine for me!
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Post by jomama0867 on Aug 11, 2016 3:03:16 GMT -6
Eagle ATV Parts ( www.eagleatvparts.com)! They are affiliated with Taotao USA, and only deal in Taotao OEM parts. Just go to their website and follow the prompts to find YOUR scooter model; all of the parts for that model are listed together. They're not the cheapest parts around, but you are GUARANTEED to get the one that fits your scooter! Hope this helps!
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Post by jomama0867 on Aug 11, 2016 2:56:07 GMT -6
I've got a 157QMJ long case, and the stock tire was a 130/60-13. I now run a Shinko 140/60-13 in the rear and a Shinko 120/70-13 in front (matching set, which I HIGHLY recommend). After over a year of DAILY riding, they still have plenty of tread, and I don't see myself ever buying anything else! Hope this helps.
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 22, 2016 11:40:55 GMT -6
UPDATE! I found the culprit . . . stuck slide in the carb! Learn from my *@#%in mistake . . . when searching for an intermittent problem, CHECK THE COMPONENT WITH MOVING PARTS FIRST (duh)!
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 22, 2016 4:37:08 GMT -6
Going to work last week, I came off of the highway (55-60 MPH for about 3 miles) and stopped at the service road light. When the light changed I noticed a severe drop in power (not as much on take-off, but 10 kph to 40 kph takes FOREVER)! It made me think I was back on my 50cc! Rode it home for lunch (no highway, obviously) and back to work, no change. On the way home after work, it suddenly regained power . . . while in motion! Needless to say I couldn't troubleshoot it when it's working.
This week I noticed a slight power drop occasionally when leaving a stoplight, but just for a fraction of a second, then it would accelerate normally. Now it's back! I thought it might be a clogged muffler (that's kind of what it felt like when it "freed" itself up) so I took off the muffler and ran it with just the pipe . . . no change. I've also tried cleaning the air filter, checked for vacuum leaks (lines and intake), changed the gas tank vent line (read that somewhere), and checked the valve lashes . . . all checked out normal. A neighbor suggested maybe a burnt valve, but wouldn't that affect the performance consistently instead of being sporatic?
I'm going to check and clean the carb today (inspect the jets, slide, etc.), but would be open to any other suggestions!
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 1, 2016 10:14:45 GMT -6
Yeah, that's kind of what I figured, too! It seems like it should be fairly easy to find, but ALL of these @% connections I find are suspect . . . I'll find it eventually! Thanks cyborg for the confirmation. I'm bound to run out of connections eventually . . . right?!?
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Post by jomama0867 on Feb 1, 2016 4:49:03 GMT -6
Yes, the AutoZone closest to me sux, always busy and they make you stand in the parts/service line even if you're just checking out . . . NEVER AGAIN! Thank you to all of you genius guru's, you were ALL correct . . . battery bad under load! Bought a new one at Batteries Plus (10AH and 170 CCA's instead of 90). I'll have to make a small mod on my battery box to fit it (3/8 inch taller), but well worth the work. The scoot starts easily every time, first crank. As for the other issues, they seem to have been solved . . . except one. Key on, kill switch off, when I grip EITHER brake, the instrument lights come on! Strange, since I'm pretty sure they don't share ANY wiring. I've been studying the wiring diagrams for a while now but can't seem to find any common connections that explain it. Has anyone heard of this before? I can't even reason where to look for a short!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 27, 2016 17:07:52 GMT -6
Checked the thin red wire and it's tight. WD-40 on the switch seemed to work good. I had the battery checked at AutoZone, and they said it was good (needed to be charged . . . DUH), but they didn't check it under a load . . . is it possible that it could check out fine and still be "bad" under a load? The battery recovers as soon as the key is turned off, and it seems to be holding a charge fine (charged it yesterday mid-day, checked it this afternoon and reads the same VDC)!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 27, 2016 11:47:31 GMT -6
!?! While waiting for my new starter to get here (Thursday), I disconnected the large red wire from the battery to disable the starter system. I also charged my battery (13.6 VDC at rest), but as soon as I turn the key on the ignition switch, my battery drops to below 7 VDC! Thinking it may be the switch, I by-passed it by jumping the black and red wires at the 4-pin connector . . . same result! I'm just not sure where to check next (I've checked all of the grounds that I can find). Could a bad brake switch be causing this (MY LEFT ONE STICKS A LITTLE SOMETIMES)? I'm almost ready to scrap the whole wiring harness and start over . . . ALMOST!
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