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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 25, 2016 19:54:36 GMT -6
Outstanding! I'm glad I'm not the only one "crazy" enough to go EXTREME! I ran 14/36 in my original (stock) 157QMJ and was impressed at the difference, so much so that when I swapped it for the current 1P57QMJ "back-up" engine I put them in it immediately. I'm looking forward to finishing the BBK rebuild; between the 63mm bore, the A9 cam, and the 18/36 tranny gears the results should be interesting (at the least)! I'll be sure to keep you posted with the results, maybe you will be inspired to try them yourself!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 25, 2016 5:32:23 GMT -6
The stock carbs come with a drain tube (see pic).
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 25, 2016 5:13:48 GMT -6
Assuming you have a GY6 150cc, it's actually a +3.5!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 25, 2016 1:18:45 GMT -6
Many thanks, Alley! I was actually debating on even posting the question, thinking that was the obvious solution, but "better safe than sorry" I always say (especially when it comes to loose wiring on these things)! By the way, I DID happen to find a couple of questionable ground areas while trying to sort this out . . . how anyone expects to tie in eight 14 guage wires into one 14 guage wire and have enough surface area to make a decent connection I'll never know! Thanks to everyone again for the assistance, I'll post a thread when I get the 180cc BBK engine on the road (also found a set of 18/36 tranny gears for it . . . should be interesting)!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 24, 2016 20:34:10 GMT -6
Further Update: Yup, Starter! I hooked it up to my neighbor's car battery and . . . nothing! I removed it and opened it up, thinking I might be able to spot the problem. After performing all of the tests (that I could find on-line), everything seemed to check out O.K., but when I hooked it up directly to my now-fully-charged battery (13.42 VDC at rest), NOTHING from the starter, and the battery charge dropped to almost nothing (it recovered as soon as I disconnected it, and seems to perform fine with all of the other electrics)! I was eventually going to order a high torque starter for my BBK engine I'm building, so I just ordered it a little sooner than I expected . . no real loss other than kick-starting my only form of transportation for the next few more days. Which brings me to my next question; I plan to re-install the "bad" starter to fill the "hole" in the crankcase to be able to still run the scooter, BUT I don't really want to necessarily connect it to the electrical system the way it is. Is there a way to safely protect the exposed starter connection (disconnecting . . . whatever) so I don't blow my wiring harness completely? Maybe disconnect the solenoid at the battery so that part of the system won't have any power? My plan is to try not to have to run it, but the new starter won't get here until Wed. or Thur., and if a situation comes up I need to be able to use it without doing any more damage than necessary. Any ideas would be helpful, and THANX TO ALL for the assistance in getting me this far!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 21, 2016 10:04:19 GMT -6
Update: The battery tested good. It needs to be fully charged (obviously), but has no apparent faulty cells. I also agree that a ground short is probably a good place to start. The wiring on this seems to me to be sketchy at best anyway. Every light bulb (including the ones on the "dash") has it's own ground, and ALL of these tie into one common ground. Needless to say the point of connection is a rat's nest of converging green wires, and I don't know why they think that sending 10-12 12 guage wires into one 12 guage wire would be successful anyway! I have had headlight issues before and resolved them by running a separate ground directly to the frame (under the cowling). I'm considering replacing the "common" ground with one of a higher guage (if nothing else than to try to get better connection from the 8-10 wires that tie into it). The battery still shows to be charging when running, which would seem to rule out a stator/rectifier problem, correct?
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 20, 2016 18:35:01 GMT -6
Thank you Alley! Everything you suggested makes perfect sense to me . . . especially the original post about a bad battery! You see, I have a terrible habit of OVER-THINKING problems like these instead of checking the obvious solutions first. That said, I'm going to have the battery tested first thing in the morning! At least I can eliminate that particular component (if nothing else), and there's a good chance that could be the culprit! I have had batteries go "bad" before out of nowhere, and this one was "cheap" in the first place. If that's not it, I'll try your other suggestions.
I will let you know how this turns out. Maybe 2016 won't be the year electricity disappeared!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 20, 2016 14:56:26 GMT -6
I guess I disclosed some confusing information . . . this is a DAILY RIDER! I haven't NEEDED to charge the battery since switching the lighting system to ALL L.E.D.'s (I check the voltage fairly regularly with my multi-meter, and it's been charging perfectly)! Still, I'm not disputing that it could be a bad battery. After a little more diagnostics, I haven't narrowed my search parameters at all. Here's what I've tried:
By-passing the ignition switch; no change. By-passing the brake switches; no change. Disconnecting the horn wiring completely; no change. However, when I hook up a "manual" battery charger, I get normal electrics, but the starter (or solenoid) clicks when trying to start. Tried to "jump" the solenoid, and got NOTHING (maybe the problem?) I get sparks across the terminals, but no start (or sounds). Also when I turn on the ignition switch, the battery voltage drops from 12.5 to 6.0 VDC immediately (even when by-passing the switch and jumping the connection at the junction)! BEFORE turning "on" the kill switch!
Any ideas . . . Alley . . . ANYONE?
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 20, 2016 6:15:34 GMT -6
It's beginning to look like 2016 will be the year electricity fights back! O.K., I'm going through the motions of starting the scooter, when I notice the dash lights are dimmer than normal. Not drastic, since it's been over a month and a half since I've even thought about charging the battery (L.E.D.'s are definitely the way to go), so I check the charge . . . still fully charged (13.45 DCV)! To make a looong story shorter, I seem to have a short (or drain) somewhere.
The scoot kick-starts fine, and runs normally (electrical systems included), so I'm leaning towards the fact that rear-end systems (CDI, stator, coil, R/R, etc.) are functioning normal, but the only thing that DOESN'T work is the horn (when I hit the switch, my dash goes dead . . . running or not)! It doesn't blow the fuse (which is confusing), but it doesn't work either.
So, O Mighty Gurus, what do you think? Bad switch? Bad ground (which would be strange to me if it would only affect the horn)? It's still operational, but I'm not a big fan of HAVING to kick start a scooter to get it started (doesn't make you look "cool", it makes you look dumb (er)!
2013 Taotao ATM150-A "EVO"
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 10, 2016 21:45:15 GMT -6
Thanx, Alley! I guessed it might be something like that (but with the Chinese, WHO KNOWS)! At least now I can sleep soundly tonight knowing that tomorrow I can continue the "big build" without having to worry about "fluff"!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 10, 2016 18:57:12 GMT -6
Yeah, jerryscript, that's kinda what I figured too, but then there is this (see pics)! This spring-loaded wheel reacts every revolution, but as far as I can tell it's not connected to anything electrical OR mechanical. It just "hangs" there!
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Post by jomama0867 on Jan 10, 2016 15:15:27 GMT -6
Can someone help me identify this part and what it does (or doesn't do)? I recently invested in a BBK (63mm) and the kit included an A9 camshaft, but the part circled is missing. Does this mean I will have to remove the bearing(s) and switch it to the new camshaft? See photos:
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 8, 2015 9:24:25 GMT -6
Thanks to all for the feedback. I had a spare OEM variator so I tried the combination anyway (didn't really want to use my 115mm), three 10g and three 13g, and ran about 25 miles. On inspection, I didn't notice any adverse damage to sliders or variator. There seemed to be a slight improvement in performance, but nothing significant. I'll probably buy the correct weight sliders, but it was interesting trying out the theory!
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 6, 2015 17:59:45 GMT -6
As I see it, the main limitation you're going to have is working with a "P" 157QMJ. That being said, I'm right there with ya, pal! Cycles are Cycles, and Scooters are Scooters, but that doesn't mean Scooters can't still be "stylish" or "cool"! I'm a firm believer in making a scooter "your own" in any way possible, especially fabricating your own "accessories" (but that's just my opinion)!
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Post by jomama0867 on Nov 6, 2015 17:48:37 GMT -6
I recently narrowed my variator weights down to a range of sizes. As it happens, I was convinced that 13g was the winner, but found that they in fact were just a bit TOO heavy. I already owned a set of 10g sliders (same manufacturer), but they were ENTIRELY too light!. Is there any problem in alternating 10g and 13g sliders (creating . . . 11.5g?!?)?
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