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Post by 89newbie on May 11, 2011 6:57:55 GMT -6
Moving buying home money very tight. Could not justify building 50, dont have the $ for the 250 ordered a NOS 2008-150, I'm thinking my mechanical ability and Scrappy dog parts will make it O.K. Thinking immediate changes are exhaust and carb, variator and torque spring will make a big differance. Of course the normal fuel lines tire valves etc. Any thoughts out there?
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Post by robb on May 11, 2011 10:59:55 GMT -6
Break it in first. Jet assortment, roller assortment, drop in foam or k&n style air filter, if yours is paper, with de-restricted airbox. Choose a variator carefully, there are reports of some that lessen your top speed. In my opinion exhaust is poor bang for the buck, maybe 2 mph top speed and unnoticeable until you are wot except for the different sound. If you totally de-restrict it and mod it to run faster, it will easily run fast enough to blow up. I think the difference between optimally tuned and modded to hell and back is about 10 mph and $1500 at which point you could have bought a 250 or a nice slightly used 250 motorcycle that might get better fuel milage and run rings around all 3. If money is tight I'd take tuned over modded any day. My 2 cents.
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Post by Alleyoop on May 11, 2011 11:35:24 GMT -6
First thing would be a Performanace Variator, I opt for the Proidgy Variator it is great, gives you good take offs and does not take away from top end. Also very smooth transition through the throttle range. A lot of the performance variators give you low end and usually take some top end away due to the Angles of the Ramps to Steep keeping the weights low in the ramps and need a lot of rpms to push them up the steep ramp. Then weigh your rollers and try them to get the belt up to 1/8 of the edge of the Variator with good RPMS.
As far as the Carb they usually come with 24mm carbs and unless your hopping up the internals of the engine that is plenty of a carb and can re-jet it quite high and or raise and or lower the Diapghgram needle.
If you really want TOP END then put in Taller Tranny gears which are right behind the Clutch. Very cheap and easy to put in and get a lot for your bucks. Alleyoop
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Post by sprocket on May 11, 2011 11:39:34 GMT -6
Get it to be reliable.. forget the mods.. it only shortens the engine life...
Tune the CVT and if you want the best top end... step up the rear gearing...
Exhaust and carb filters are pointless...as are electricals for performance or WOT
Aftermarket hype..
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Post by 89newbie on May 12, 2011 5:43:34 GMT -6
First thing would be a Performanace Variator, I opt for the Proidgy Variator it is great, gives you good take offs and does not take away from top end. Also very smooth transition through the throttle range. A lot of the performance variators give you low end and usually take some top end away due to the Angles of the Ramps to Steep keeping the weights low in the ramps and need a lot of rpms to push them up the steep ramp. Then weigh your rollers and try them to get the belt up to 1/8 of the edge of the Variator with good RPMS. As far as the Carb they usually come with 24mm carbs and unless your hopping up the internals of the engine that is plenty of a carb and can re-jet it quite high and or raise and or lower the Diapghgram needle. If you really want TOP END then put in Taller Tranny gears which are right behind the Clutch. Very cheap and easy to put in and get a lot for your bucks. Alleyoop Hey Dude thanks. Since I dont believe dealer specs im wondering What can I expect from this thing for normal cruzing. It has 14 inch tires which I think will help all overall ride, mileage etc over the 12 inch I am used to. Add says 60 + depending on load. Since i dont have it yet I have no idea what to expect from a 150. I agree tuning and break in miles are a big key to performance. Now that my 50 has over 1000K.M. on it I am still seeing engine performance increases. Since I am moving in a month to 6 weeks I wont have much time to do anything except the attempted suicide we all do in a move .
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Post by sprocket on May 12, 2011 10:07:28 GMT -6
Sure it will probably DO 60+ when broken in, but you can't run them at that speed for very long...
In general it is best to run these engines at about 80% of WOT. This gives you some reserve, lowers the RPM, extends engine life etc etc...
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Post by 89newbie on May 12, 2011 21:04:25 GMT -6
Break it in first. Jet assortment, roller assortment, drop in foam or k&n style air filter, if yours is paper, with de-restricted airbox. Choose a variator carefully, there are reports of some that lessen your top speed. In my opinion exhaust is poor bang for the buck, maybe 2 mph top speed and unnoticeable until you are wot except for the different sound. If you totally de-restrict it and mod it to run faster, it will easily run fast enough to blow up. I think the difference between optimally tuned and modded to hell and back is about 10 mph and $1500 at which point you could have bought a 250 or a nice slightly used 250 motorcycle that might get better fuel milage and run rings around all 3. If money is tight I'd take tuned over modded any day. My 2 cents. I didnt think 150's were restricted?
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Post by 89newbie on May 12, 2011 21:08:16 GMT -6
First thing would be a Performanace Variator, I opt for the Proidgy Variator it is great, gives you good take offs and does not take away from top end. Also very smooth transition through the throttle range. A lot of the performance variators give you low end and usually take some top end away due to the Angles of the Ramps to Steep keeping the weights low in the ramps and need a lot of rpms to push them up the steep ramp. Then weigh your rollers and try them to get the belt up to 1/8 of the edge of the Variator with good RPMS. As far as the Carb they usually come with 24mm carbs and unless your hopping up the internals of the engine that is plenty of a carb and can re-jet it quite high and or raise and or lower the Diapghgram needle. If you really want TOP END then put in Taller Tranny gears which are right behind the Clutch. Very cheap and easy to put in and get a lot for your bucks. Alleyoop Hey thanks for the response. I wont know what it does till june because im going to be really slammed with all I have to do in 24 days. I Imagine it will accelerate better than the 50 so I really dont know what to expect.
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Post by 89newbie on May 12, 2011 21:18:07 GMT -6
I'm thinking variator and gears. I was also thinking oil cooler for summer. I anticipate it will be a little more than the 50, but then again the poor 50 is in the mountains and WOT is kinda necessary, unless I perfect riding backwards down the hills,, rofl. I do enjoy the questions at the pump and the looks on the faces when I tell them the 50 is getting 88mpg.
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Post by sprocket on May 13, 2011 13:24:27 GMT -6
The 150s are not restricted but the RPMs are capped by the CDI...you can buy CDIs with no rev limiter
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Post by robb on May 13, 2011 13:52:21 GMT -6
A 150 can have a restriction in the airbox.
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Post by 89newbie on May 13, 2011 23:25:07 GMT -6
The 150s are not restricted but the RPMs are capped by the CDI...you can buy CDIs with no rev limiter Ok then here is a question what rpm does a stocker tun and what rpm does a upgrade cdi give you? LOL now that the 50 is being replaced it runs better and better but the engine noise is louder and louder, Little sccor is rnning 8200 on the flat after its warmed uo, gps says this is 42 mph.
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Post by 89newbie on May 13, 2011 23:25:41 GMT -6
A 150 can have a restriction in the airbox. Tell me more...
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Post by sprocket on May 14, 2011 11:58:48 GMT -6
Unlimited CDIs may give you a very small advantage if you tune the CVT, but you also run the risk of over-reving the engine and it explodes...
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Post by 13lky2 on May 14, 2011 20:20:24 GMT -6
42mph @ 8200rpm, sounds like a re-gear is in order! That or drastically drop the roller/slider weights.
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