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Post by robb on Jul 6, 2011 9:38:38 GMT -6
Wow... Hubs fail because they are not properly maintained, and ditto with cables. I personally do not like cobbling a bunch of extra 'stuff' on the outside of a bike, but apparently I am all but alone on that matter. I have to be honest, your well wishes do seem a bit empty - imho. I apologize for wasting valuable time and posting space on this board. Thank you for your comments. Do you mean to say your device will not be visible? Or just not visible on the dash? I think people would be better off with a gps, giving accurate speed and directions. Or if short of funds a bicycle speedo or if no funds at all remark the speedo to reflect reality with a marker. Everyone here has wished you good luck and I will too. It sounds like your market will be very small though. There are alot of great ideas that just don't happen because of the price point required. |
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Post by robb on Jul 4, 2011 10:48:17 GMT -6
Do you know now why they were free?
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Post by robb on Jul 4, 2011 9:21:54 GMT -6
I don't want to burst any bubbles but I think the blue thing is just an aftermarket valve cover for the return line hook-up. Being 4v the zuma has 2 of them, and one just happens to be over the intake on the head.///////// Off topic, sorta. If you already have a 6mm tapped place for a pressure sensor I think you could use that for an oil cooler without killing the pressure by using a smaller line, say 3/32" or even 1/16". The cooler doesn't need massive volume. The longer the oil stays in the cooler before it's returned to the engine the cooler it will be when it is returned. Just a thought.
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Post by robb on Jul 4, 2011 8:57:44 GMT -6
Welcome! 2 questions, how many miles are on it and have you ever adjusted the valves? Valves being too tight are frequently the cause of hard starting. There is probably a vid on valve adjustment on youtube.
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Post by robb on Jun 29, 2011 17:11:22 GMT -6
I think one theory (that I subscribe to ) is dino oil is fine because you don't need long lasting oil because it's beneficial to change it often to let the smaller metal particles out that aren't caught by the strainer. If you have a liquid cooled scooter with a real filter, I think you could use the same oil change intervals as a car.
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Post by robb on Jun 25, 2011 20:25:16 GMT -6
I think it is normal for a new belt to cause you to rev a little higher untill it wears in and you also put in lighter vari weights at the same time. I'd put the old belt back on to test if that is the case. As for the higher jet? Look at your plug and see what it tells you. My 2 cents.
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Post by robb on Jun 14, 2011 19:54:07 GMT -6
It could be the stator, but I'd check grounds first. Have you had to kick start it or charge it since you noticed the lights dim ?
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Post by robb on Jun 12, 2011 14:56:14 GMT -6
In that article they were calling it transmission fluid and gear oil both. 80W90 as mentioned in the article is clearly old style plain jane gear oil, suitable for old style manual trans and automobile differentials that were not limited slip. I think their point is use gear oil and not automatic transmission fluid. Any kind of gear oil should be fine. You have a fine looking scooter, if I may say so.
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Post by robb on Jun 10, 2011 7:09:18 GMT -6
I agree with the comment that you need to get the oil that came with the scooter out, and put oil of known quality in first thing. Cheap dino oil is good. I'd ride it 10 miles and drain it with the side plug and fill it again, you still have the tools ( drain pan and socket wrench for the side plug ) out from letting the shipping veggie oil out right ? I like to get the tiny bits that the screen doesn't catch out before you have too many miles on the engine. I consider a very early oil change to flush garbage out to be cheap insurance. Good luck with your new scoot.
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Post by robb on Jun 4, 2011 2:40:36 GMT -6
If it's the flywheel side you need a special flywheel puller too, it's L/H thread.
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Post by robb on May 13, 2011 13:52:21 GMT -6
A 150 can have a restriction in the airbox.
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Post by robb on May 11, 2011 10:59:55 GMT -6
Break it in first. Jet assortment, roller assortment, drop in foam or k&n style air filter, if yours is paper, with de-restricted airbox. Choose a variator carefully, there are reports of some that lessen your top speed. In my opinion exhaust is poor bang for the buck, maybe 2 mph top speed and unnoticeable until you are wot except for the different sound. If you totally de-restrict it and mod it to run faster, it will easily run fast enough to blow up. I think the difference between optimally tuned and modded to hell and back is about 10 mph and $1500 at which point you could have bought a 250 or a nice slightly used 250 motorcycle that might get better fuel milage and run rings around all 3. If money is tight I'd take tuned over modded any day. My 2 cents.
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Post by robb on May 6, 2011 5:35:45 GMT -6
I wish Yamaha would sell their sniper here ( I like the water cooled ) or Honda their wave. Either would do.
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Post by robb on May 6, 2011 0:48:06 GMT -6
Imagine what it would look like if you refused it and after it was shipped back! I think that might be why they want you to accept it with damage because they know it can't survive being shipped twice.
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Post by robb on Apr 26, 2011 21:34:01 GMT -6
I think my 2 cents was or would have been to get your money back and start fresh. That being said, what you are getting may work out for you. It is a copy of a proven design. I hear they are very comfy. Most of the bad news I have heard about that design of china scoot are pretty minor. Given a chance it may grow on you, retro looks and all.
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