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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 17:52:52 GMT -6
Just try one a little bit helps a lot on that needle. If after you test it out you think it may take another heck it is easy enough to do. Alleyoop
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 18:23:06 GMT -6
so i tried it with 1 washer it took all of the sputter out of 6k rpm, very beautiful. but then it moved it to 7k rpm lol. im going to fashion another spacer and put a second one in there, after that i will adjust the pin on the side of the carb to get the proper fuel air ratio as im sure moving the slider a few notches will mess that up.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 18:26:03 GMT -6
yeah it is fairly easy, i did have to take a piece of frame out of the way, luckily it unbolts. its the tube piece that holds the front mounts for the bigger under seat storage container. ive seen some that are welded in place =( like i said im glad i was able to unbolt mine to get to the top of the carb. posting back with results after the second washer is added.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 18:44:14 GMT -6
COOL!! getting there. What rpms does it run at with a load on it,meaning when your riding it. The rpms without load will be much higher than when under load.
Just so you know the GY6 motors make their MAX horsepower at 7500 RPMS so going over thoes rpms buys you nothing as a matter of fact it will loose power. Not only that but your motor will not last long running at those high rpms.
So you want to set it up to run right around 6800-7200 rpms at Wide Open Throttle and that is easy on your motor.
Mine runs up to 65mph at right near 6500 rpms 60mph at 6000-6100 rpms the motor is just purring.
I have had it up to 70mph and the rpms were just under 7000rpms have not run it over that at all. Alleyoop
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 18:55:22 GMT -6
just installed the 2nd washer, for some reason the stumble at 6k is back, going to take it off and try again lol i shouldnt have messed with it after the first one.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 18:58:49 GMT -6
Also what will help is get a Good Plug that will help ignite the fuel much better. Alleyoop
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 19:08:38 GMT -6
yeah going to pick up an iridium tomorrow
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 19:09:54 GMT -6
Great!! you will notice right from the start your idle will be a little higher and starts up much better as well. Alleyoop
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 19:36:51 GMT -6
cant wait,just sucks that they cost so much for 1 plug lol
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 19:59:23 GMT -6
Yes I know $10.00 bucks verses $3.00 for a brand plug, but know that I know what they do that is all i will buy. I bought 4 back in 2009, I am on my second one only because I put a brand new one after the build in 2010. Alleyoop
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 20:01:22 GMT -6
so if it pops on acceleration then its too rich?
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 20:02:53 GMT -6
i dont know if theres different types of iridium plugs because ive only seen one type at the autopart store so does it matter? its in the small engines section but im not sure if it will work
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 20:22:32 GMT -6
Iridium you want CH7HIX #7544 or for a regular brand plug you can get an AutoLite #4494. Alleyoop
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 5, 2012 20:49:08 GMT -6
ok im lost. putting scoot back together and calling it a night as its 10pm here and very very cold. took the second washer out so that its back down to 1. nomatter what i set the air/fuel mixture on the carb, the thing still hesitates/sputters around 6-7k very bad. im not sure if a new spark plug will remedy this but i thinking it might just be the muffler being toast. i dont know what else to try to get that sputter to go away. so should i take this muffler apart, repack it and re rivet? or should i just get a brand spankin new one and save the hassle? cost to fix this muffler is about 25-45$, cost to get a cheap new stainless steel muffler about 100-250$ ( thats shipping included i know there are mufflers that cost more then 250$ but im not about to get one of those lol ) gnite =)
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2012 21:04:28 GMT -6
You sure the needle is in there ok with the washer. It may be sticking it should have a little play and be able to move around a little.
Let me ask this After it is NICE and warm IDLED for about 5 minutes. Turn the Fuel Ratio Screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn at a time and at some point the Idle should start to go down and want to die. Then Turn it CLOUNTER CLOCKWISE until you get the HIGHEST RPMS.
Now to do this you have to WAIT in between each 1/4 turns about 10-15 seconds to let the motor catch up with the setting OTHERWISE you will not get it right. Once you turn it 1/4 after the RPMS WENT UP and NOTHING HAPPENS then turn it CLOCKWISE 1/8 of a turn that should be the highest rpms you can get out of the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw.
If the SCREW DOES NOTHING then your PILOT JET IS CLOGGED or the PASSAGE is CLOGGED.
IF YOU CAN FIX the MUFFLER FOR $25-35 bucks I would do that first. Alleyoop
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