electrical issues By bcgreatness (Read 3,762 times)

[bcgreatness]

oh ok, i wasnt waiting imbetween settings on the ratio screw, i was just turning it and hitting the gas to see how it performed, then i would turn it. didnt help me none as i was also adjusting the idle screw because the scoot did die a few times while doing that lol. guess i need to leave the idle alone when i mess with the carb setting. im going to change my oil and then try that as it was a little over filled, not too bad though. it was only about a quarter of an inch above the range mark, atleast it wasnt full to the top.

[bcgreatness]

found the source of the carb malfunction. while i was doing as you instructed by turning the screw clockwise untill it wanted to die, it hit me. nomatter which way i was turning it, it never wanted to die out, i checked the throttle pin and it was almost all the way in so as it was running and i was feeling around, i felt a blowing coming from somwhere. it felt as if it were coming from the intake manifold so i tightened one side of it, got to the other bolt, and it was loose. so i kept tightening it for about a min before i stopped and said, it should have been tight by now, so i tried to take it out and it wouldnt come out either. so i stuck a flathead screwdriver under the bolt while i was trying to take it out and finally got it out. the end of the screw looks to be stripped out. i was going to take the bolt off of one side and put it on the other side and flip the screw so that it had fresh threads but when i was trying to take the bolt off, that was stripped into place as well. being how ive never tinkered with the intake manifold, i will judge that it was like that when i got it. so all the air that was getting in = super lean, too much air. thats why it wouldnt ever richen out untill i put 2 many washers in the carb pin. can i get a vote to see who thinks the inside of the hole is stripped as well? so how should i remedy this? i dont have a tap & die set of my own, and if i did i would only have 1 shot. should i just jam a slightly larger screw in there and as long as it holds its good right?

[sprocket]

You might be able to repair a stripped bolt hole with a heli-coil...they work very well in soft aluminum.

[Alleyoop]

I don't know what size studs they are but you can take one out and a nut go to the hardware store and see if they have two. And then get a Helicoil set comes with everything you need usually and retap it to fit the Helicoil and the studs will now grab metal and not aluminum. This is what I used on my Tranny Drain hole which was stripped.
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

i found another bolt in my tool bin. its not as long and is made just for a nut but it worked. bike still stutters at 6-7k. got an iridium from auto part store ( for 15.99 ) and got home and it was too big, was designed for a v twin motorcycle. kinda glad it wasnt the right one because i felt ripped off paying that much for a plug lol. replaced the torch plug with a regular one from ngk like the one you told me about earlier. wow i should have started a new thread called carb problems its not electrical issues anymore. anyways im still trying to perfect the fuel mix ratio and i just cant get it perfect. as far as the muffler goes im just going to buy a new one in a month or two and call it done. just a word of advice to anybody getting a carbon fiber muffler, only put one on if your bike is in tip top shape and tuned perfectly or you will be upset when you melt yours like mine is doing. the stainless will not melt no matter how hot it gets =) alley i do appreciate all of the help with this, i have one more question though concerning the carb but i have to upload some pics for you to understand. im going to do that really fast, brb.

[Alleyoop]

Not a problem, we are about to leave to meet two friends for supper so I won't be back till around 7pm Central time. But maybe someone else will chime in.
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

there is a hose on the front, top, left side of my carb that looks cut. not sure if it is, or if its supposed to be the way it is. heres a few pics to show you what im talking about. if it is cut, where is it supposed to go? thanks alley.

[Alleyoop]

That is a VENT that is ok the way it is.
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

ohh ok. it had me wondering because when i was messing with the fuel mix ration screw, sometimes my finder would touch it and cover the hole, then the bikes idle would shoot up higher then normal. so when i put my finger on it on purpose it revs pretty high. was wondering if it had to go to a vac line or something, but thanks for clearing that up for me =) went on a ride after i got the idle set good and the muffler still gets hot after about 30 - 45 mins of riding ( thats taking it very easy, and no WOT unless i ease into it by holding half throttle ) i think i will fix the muffler now and if it still gets to where it wants to burn down then i will buy a new stainless next month. ty for the help alley i guess we can mark this one solved although it still stutters at 6-7k but im positive it is due to the muffler not being in such good shape.

[bcgreatness]

ohh i forgot to mention to fix the intake i got my hands on a 40 piece tap and die set and re tapped the threads in the hole, the other side was a-ok. also used a different bolt because the other one was beyond repair.

[sprocket]

The hose you showed is OK but the rubber is all cracked. This tells me that all your other hoses are likely snitty like this one. Time to replace your hoses... before they block your carb

I would use clear yellow Tygon hose... for both fuel and vacuum lines.You can buy it at most riding mower, skidoo places...

www.hoseline.net/hose/fgpvc.htm

Good one on the head studs

[bcgreatness]

yeah it was a super fast fix im not happy with it but it will work for now. as long as it holds. is there any diagram that shows how many feet of hose i will need? i could measure it all out but that would suck and take a while. yeah pretty much all of the hoses look almost as bad as that. its mostly superficial though they arent cracked all the way through. i will agree that it needs new lines though. what size diameter should i get? i see the different sizes and prices on that site but im trying to get an idea of what im going to be paying

[Alleyoop]

Normally the Fuel Lines are From the tank to the Petcock or Fuel pump to the Fuel Filter are 1/4 ID, Then everything on the CARB is 3/16ID so from the FUel FIlter to the Carb for FUEL you need 3 /16. I would get 5 feet of each if they sell them in 5 foot lenghts some places sell them in 10 foot lenghts.
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

my set up goes: tank, fuel filter, petcock, carb. should it be tank, petcock, filter, carb?

[bcgreatness]

took muffler off today to take it apart. upon shaking it i felt the packing slide to one end, so i turned it upside down and shook some more and the packing fell to the other side. my muffler lacks packing so thats why its overheating and wanting to melt. cut off all of the rivets so i could pull it apart and prep it for new packing. could never get the darn thing apart after fighting with it for several hours. it made me mad so i put it up for the night. dont know if its welded together or something but if anybody has any ideas please let me know as it will be about a month or two before i can get a new one. my scoot is officially down until i get a new exhaust.