electrical issues By bcgreatness (Read 3,942 times)

[bcgreatness]

did as was instructed and picked up a digital multi meter from walmart. these are the results.

battery hooked up with bike off: 13.28v dc

battery with bike running: 13.44v dc

battery unhooked: 13.22v dc ( weird )

bike running with no battery at idle ( tested the wires ): .33v dc

bike running with no battery at 6k rpm: .35-.42 v dc

bike running with no battery WOT: .48 v dc

the weird stuff: bike with no battery running, blinkers dont work, horn wont work, tach wont work.

when i hold the front brakes while bike is running with no battery the wires read 1.44v dc at idle and 5.00 - 6.00 v dc at WOT

when i hold the front brakes with bike running with no battery the tach begins to work.

did not test the rectifier/regulator as im not sure as to how just yet. any input would be appreciated.

[sprocket]

The battery off the scooter should read 12.6 volts...AGMs a bit more...12.8vdc

The rectifier/regulator is likely gone the voltage to the battery (red wire to frame) should be ~ 13.2 to 13.4 volts or so

Your battery should be load tested...

[Bashan]

It does sound like the rectifir is bad. However, you can test it hooked up normally to the scooter. Have it hooked up just like it would be if the bike was running normally including the battery. Get it started by kick start or jump it off from a vehicle that IS NOT STARTED. Set your multimeter to DC voltage and get the red probe wedged into the connector on the red wire connector that's hooked up to the regulator and make sure you have a good contact. Give it a few RPMs and you should get 13 to 14.5 DC volts. Then set your multi to AC and do the same with the yellow wire, you should get about 12v AC. If either of thos values are off order a new rectifier but make sure you get a proper replacement. Many vendors say they're universal but that's crap, they can be specific. Call Dave at Absolutely Scooters and explain your situation if you need a rectifier, he'll help you out. If those values are OK get back to us. Rich

[bcgreatness]

got it took apart today, alley told me to run a new ground wire from the ground the bike already had and run it over to the valve cover. i did that and i will post pics of the mod shortly. when i start the bike the volts drop down to 12.6 and slowly but surly go back up to 13.0 sometimes 13.1. on the stand with WOT the volts dont budge at all. ( this is all with the battery hooked up and running ) by the way the battery is brand new, got it a week ago and put the acid in myself. the battery did die 2 days ago and i got it charged up. it shouldnt have any bad cells. going to take it on a ride and see what happens. im thinking the rectifier/regulator might be bad so later after the ride i will check the volt and depending on results i will check the continuity.

[Alleyoop]

Great! so adding the Ground did help know at least it is reading half descent. Mine after it draws the juice for starting it goes up in about a minute to 14.5 and does not change no matter what the rpms are after that. How about the Tach does it work better and the other things that were going bannanas.
Alley

[bcgreatness]

went on an hour ride and just got back, volts test steady 13.1vdc on and off i guess maybe thats the batteries peak or somthing. the tach going banannas was when the bike was running and no battery hooked up, i havent tested to see if it works without hitting the front brakes. i went on an hour ride and the last 10 mins of the ride was wot and i was toping out at about 60 in 3 lanes of traffic. got to a stop light and smelt somthing burning, looked back at muffler and there was a constant ball of fire coming out of the end of the pipe and almost looked as if it were on fire. pulled off into closest parkinglot and cut her off. as it was cooling off i looked inside of the pipe and it was red hot and the whole thing was smoking like a bandit. guess i should get a stainless steel pipe instead of a carbon fiber pipe so theres nothing to melt or burn. almost had a heart attack, good thing i was in the parking lot of a hospital lol the same hospital i had to take my wife to lastnight. anyhow, as all things go with motors, once a problem is solved you can expect the engine to usher in a new one =( im thinking the carb is not tuned properly or maybe because i didnt up jet and upgrade the intake that could cause it? i did notice alot of popping upon acceleration and also around 6k-7k rpm if i hold it its a constant popping or if im WOT and let off the gas ( it doesnt backfire then ) and after i let off for a second as it decelerates, i jam back to WOT then it stutters and then pops very loud. so im guessing on this one and hopefully the electric is solved. im going to the store to get stuff to make tacos for dinner, when i get back my mission will be to upload the pictures i took as i was installing the extra ground wire, i took one for every step of the way not including when i took all of the panels off because everybody knows what that looks like and should by now know how to do that lol. be back in about an hour or so.

[Alleyoop]

OK, Now are you sure it is POPPING and NOT BACKFIREING reason is If it is POPPING and its red hot and burning it is DUMPING a lot of unburned fuel in the Exhaust and IGNITING in the exhaust. IF it is BACKFIREING it is RUNNING HOTTER than crap and you are LEAN.

So POPPING IS TO MUCH FUEL and BACKFIREING IS NOT ENOUGH FUEL.
So it is important to know the difference between the two because they are different problems and different fixs.
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

i think its popping because i have the pin on the carb set 3 turns out and was about to turn it even more rich but i had forgot when i put it all back together. to me the 3 turns out made the plug end look tan but it was a little blackish tan and any further and it started turning white. maybe its just the plug being old, its a torch plug, should i get an iridium? maybe that would make darn sure all the fuel is ignited before it makes its way to the headerpipe?? idk im afraid to drive it again as my heart was in my throat when i seen a constant ball of fire coming out of the tail pipe. i have been planning a trip to tampa and my means of transportation will be the scooter. its a 2 hour ride by car and on mapquest shows about 100 miles 1 way. so i need it to be in tip top shape because my wifes doctor appointment depends on it ( and out settlement from accident earlier last year ) our vehicles arent legal to make a trip that far but the scooter is lol. i really need to get this figured out.... do you think it got too hot because of WOT for a few mins? ahh so many questions im sorry...

[Alleyoop]

Also check your AIR FILTER if it is real Dirty it will cause more fuel and less air. So you might want to check out the Air Filter as well. You could try if possible on yours to open the air box a little to let more air in and see if that helps the popping.

I would change the TORCH plug just take it and go any autoparts store and get an autolite or some other good brand they will match it up for you. Or you could get an Iridum plug either way, if you could take a picture of the plug if you say it is blackish then it is RICH.
When you say if you turn it further it starts to turn WHITE (which way are you turning the Fuel Ratio to turn it WHITE).
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

clockwise is lean and counter clockwise is rich correct? if im wrong then that would explain things but im sure thats right because then it would be super lean being 3 turns out lol. i thought stock setting was like 2 and a half turns out to 2 turns out and i do know on these smaller engines you should go a little richer on the setting. so open the air box ( can i drill it? i plan on getting a filter somtime this month along with a #120 jet because the stock one is #115. so i dont think drilling would hurt it any unless sombody wants my stock airbox?

[sprocket]

There is NO stock setting... 2.5 turns out is a starting point, so the engine will run.. that is all.... it isn't likely a very good air/fuel setting...

Don't drill the air box and changing jets will do squat! Likely make it run worse.

If you put on an oiled UNI or K&N filter then you may need to go up 2 jet sizes from stock...but it depends on many factors...

Also using a filter like this you need to build a brace from the carb to the engine, or you will either pull the carb off the intake elbow at some point or develop cracks and leaks in the elbow itself...

100 miles with two people on a scooter in Florida heat.. forget it! Take the bus...

[Alleyoop]

Ok just read your last post and you say you have a #115 jet in there IF it is popping like you say, I would try a #112 or a #110 Main jet, a #120 will make it worse that is a lot of fuel.
Alleyoop

[bcgreatness]

i took me and my woman on a 50 mile round trip to her moms house and back, and we went yard sale hunting a few times all over the city. this was of course all before i changed from the stock muffler to the carbon fiber one. the stock one seemed to have handled things better lol.

[bcgreatness]

As promised, here are the pictures of the ground wire mod alley had me do the other day.

Have to take the scoot apart


preparing the heavy duty wire


the new digital multi meter


this is the ground. EVERYTHING electric on the bike had only this for a ground, which was a tab welded to the pipe frame, if thats not bad enough, it had a quarter of an inch of paint on it, even the inside of the hole was painted. only part of it getting a ground was the thread on the screw. i had to dremmel the paint off of that.


found a good spot on the valve cover. even though it is all metal with no paint, i decided to dremmel that too for a fresh connection.


this is the back of the rectifier/regulator. not sure if it applies to this one, but i do know on most of them, the unit itself is a ground to help it work properly. so i dremmeled the back side of it so when it touches the frame it gets a great ground. it grounding from the bolt that holds it wasnt enough to satisfy me.


this is the spot the rectifier/regulator bolts to. dremmeled the quarter inch of paint from that part of the tube frame ( only where the rectifier/regulator sits )


have the ground hooked back up


the new spot where the ground was run to on the valve cover


my wifes ear at the hospital


thats how properly add an additional ground wire ( not including the dart in ear )

[Alleyoop]

Nice going Good Job,
Bad grounds do cause a lot of problems and can cause people to go and start replaceing parts that are good.
Alleyoop