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Post by justincrediblem on Apr 13, 2013 20:48:47 GMT -6
A few weeks ago I noticed a puddle underneath my trike. It was rust colored water. I found it leaking from the connection point of the elbow joint pipe connecting the water pump to the bottom of the engine. My coolant reservoir was full of coolant. I tightened the two bolts on the elbow pipe to the bottom of the engine and took a quick ride. I started over heating (first time in 4,000 miles that it ever overheated.) The fan is working, the reservoir is full of coolant, but the connection was still leaking. My next step was to check the thermostat. It worked in a pot on the stove. I then ordered a new joint elbow pipe with two o-rings on each end. I also ordered a new water pump. I installed the new joint pipe and the new water pump. I took off the front panel of the trike to get to the radiator cap (which is connected to a long hose that I assume goes down to the radiator.) I added some coolant directly to that hose and it appeared to be full. The reservoir is still full of coolant. I started the engine and took a short ride and let it idle for a few minutes and it started over heating again. I noticed it still leaks coolant from the connection point to the engine. But its a very small leak. I tightened the bolts even tighter and have not checked it again for overheating yet. I'm still thinking it will still overheat though. I guess my next step will to replace the thermostat. Not sure exactly what else to check. Oh by the way, the small leak after everything new was installed was not rust colored water but actual green coolent.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 13, 2013 21:33:20 GMT -6
If it is still overheating it has air in the system and you have to get the air out of the system. Just like your breaks if there is air in the lines your brakes will be weak or not work. Alleyoop
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Post by justincrediblem on Apr 13, 2013 22:37:19 GMT -6
Thank You Alley, I will work on that tomorrow.
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Post by new2scootn on Apr 13, 2013 23:08:37 GMT -6
I thing Alley might be right, sounds like you've got some air in the system. Filler her up and let her idle with the radiator cap off. As she heats up the coolant should rise up to the ratiator cap and might even overflow so be ready with a pan underneath. Once the thermostat opens the coolant level will suddenly drop--that's when you refill her slowly then put the cap back on. If you let her run a bit with the cap off once the thermostat opens, with a little luck that will purge the air from the system. If your leak remains and it is slight I think I would try adding a bit of stop leak to the system. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
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Post by davec on Apr 13, 2013 23:11:35 GMT -6
On my water cooled shadow, we call it burping the system take the cap off get to normal operating temp and 'blip' the throttle you should see the coolant bubble, or burp.
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Post by justincrediblem on Apr 14, 2013 9:57:26 GMT -6
Tried running the engine 4 separate times (let the engine cool each time) with the cap off. The coolant would rise to the top and come out a little bit then it would burp some and drop. Still overheating though.
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Post by jct842 on Apr 14, 2013 11:17:58 GMT -6
On some there is a petcock/screw at the highest point in the coolants path. with it running you open it slightly to burp out the air and close it as soon as you see coolant coming out. If there isn't a burp valve there should be. Even my car has one. john
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Post by new2scootn on Apr 14, 2013 16:52:00 GMT -6
The other issue we need to explore is... is the engine in fact overheating. Is the temp sensor bad? Is the radiator evenly hot or are there cooler areas(indicating a blockage)? Does the cooling fan cycle?(Might operate from same temp sensor so probably doesn't). When she's "overheating" is she pushin' coolant into the reservoir and fillin' it up? If not I suspect she's not actually overheating.
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Post by justincrediblem on Apr 14, 2013 18:03:29 GMT -6
New2scootn, The reservoir doesnt appear to fill up with more coolant than what is already in it. It is defiantly overheating. Everything is hot and I can tell by the smell she is running quite hot. I do not know how to check the radiator for evenly heated areas. The radiator is very hard to get to. The last "burp" I did I noticed the fan was not running. The fan did come on previously though so I might have to work on that issue now.
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Post by jct842 on Apr 14, 2013 20:13:01 GMT -6
harbor freight sells a gun type thermometer that you just point the laser dot at what you want to check temps on. I have one and it works fine for every thing. I even check the temp of cooking grease with it. I use it to check the temp out side in goldfish pond. measures from below zero to 1200 or more degrees. When I had over heating in car they used one to measure the in and out temp of radiator. I think mine was around 40 bucks but some are cheaper.
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Post by texomaev on Apr 14, 2013 21:48:20 GMT -6
Being an Amsoil Dealer, I changed out all the fluids in my Trike. I plan on using it this spring/summer as a show-n-tell demo of the products. If it can keep this poor China built trike running, why aren't you using it..... lol is going to be my sales pitch to prospective buyers. Anyhow I put some of this in the coolant from the get go, and so far, knock on wood, it seems to be running fine. Anxious to hear of your resolve on the overheating problem: www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/antifreeze/dominator-coolant-boost/
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 15, 2013 12:44:47 GMT -6
If it clears out air pockets in the system it would be a wonder product and you would need an airplane hanger stocked with this stuff to keep up with the volume of sales. ;D Alleyoop
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Post by justincrediblem on Apr 15, 2013 20:51:39 GMT -6
Either my starting clutch is going bad again or my CDI box isnt working properly. The trike is very hard to start now. Im thinking its the starting clutch going again. I feel sorry for anybody that has read about these trikes and still decide to purchase one. I will tell you right now they are nothing but junk. I know of at least 3 people that have been screwed by purchasing one. And they all have less that 1,000 miles on theirs. I have 3,850 miles on mine and it has been broke down 5 times.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 15, 2013 21:06:45 GMT -6
Justin, If it is the starter Clutch slipping it will not turn the crankshaft to start the motor. But that is a very noticeable sound it makes. Also does it kickback when you first hit the start button.
How exactly is it acting when starting, it could just be a bad adjusted carb and or not working ENRICHER or tight valves. If you can get a VIDEO with sound when your trying to start it that will help at lot. I know the sound of a bad Clutch and or one that is Kicking back. Alleyoop
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Post by justincrediblem on Apr 15, 2013 21:14:22 GMT -6
there is a combination of kick back and the crank shaft not turning. It with catch, turn over the crank shaft and then the engine will fire. But its getting harder and harder to start with the combination of kick back and that sound of the crank shaft not turning (same sound as before when my starter clutch went out in December)
Either way, it won't start easily like a LESS THAN A YEAR OLD scooter should.
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