Clinician
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Post by Moat on Apr 20, 2013 17:52:52 GMT -6
The mixture screw is for idle mixture, not the overall operating mixture - so will have little effect at large throttle openings.
Install a clean plug, remove the air filter element, and then see how it runs and what the plug then looks like afterwards. Since it now appears so rich after sitting out in the rain, there might be enough residual moisture in the filter element to be starving the engine of air at WOT.
Otherwise, moisture-related spark leakage from the plug wire, cap or coil could be causing misfire at large throttle openings. You could try drying/cleaning those parts off with a cloth, and spraying with silicone spray to help insulate against the leakage (silicone is an insulating dielectric).
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Post by necorum on Apr 21, 2013 11:06:39 GMT -6
So basically just let the weather dry the thing out? I bought a rain resistant cover for it. I might buy a second one just to add protection.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 21, 2013 23:00:06 GMT -6
Necorum, The reason your now loosing power is because you went to far on the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE turning it COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO MUCH.
Don't believe what they say that the Fuel Ratio Mixture is only for IDLE, that is Flat out wrong. It sucks fuel out of the PILOT JET all through the throttle range, granted not as much as the MAIN JET but that is because it has a bigger outlet for more fuel to be sucked out of. The Pilot Jets are tiny but there are 4 of them.
As a matter of fact you just proved it you turned the Screw to many turns out, it is now to RICH and you will loose power.
So Do this to straighten it out. Start it up let it warm up at least 5 minutes so the ENRICHER shuts off the extra fuel. Now turn the screw CLOCKWISE until the RPMS start to drop.
1. NOW turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn and wait about 10 seconds to allow the motor to catch up with the new setting. A. If the IDLE GOES up REPEAT #1 B. VERY IMPORTANT if after the LAST 1/4 turn THE RPMS DID NOT GO UP --GO TO C. C. Turn the SCREW CLOCKWISE 1/8 of a turn and that should be the highest IDLE out of the mixture which is how you adjust for correct mixture of fuel and air.
Give that a shot Alleyoop
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Post by Moat on Apr 22, 2013 6:59:18 GMT -6
Don't believe what they say that the Fuel Ratio Mixture is only for IDLE, that is Flat out wrong. I never said * only* for idle - read again. But that's besides the point. The bike was seemingly running along just fine. Then it was left out in the rain, where it immediately afterwards ran poorly and bogged at WOT, with a very black plug (too rich) as a result. Did the raindrops magically reach up inside the carburetor and adjust the idle mixture screw to be too rich? Of course not - so why are you (and others) advising necorum to rectify his problem by fiddling with the idle mixture screw? That setting is not the root cause of his (rain related) problem - it's flawed troubleshooting logic, and misleading advice - serving to confuse more than help. But yes, Alleyoop - the idle mix adjustment steps you gave in the above post are right on the money, and should get necorum's idle mixture back on track. But - just as you laid them out - those adjustment steps are for idle mixture setting... not for addressing mixture problems further up the range of throttle opening. That's where slide taper, needle jet, needle taper and clip position/shims, main jet, slide spring, etc... come into play. See my point? Adjusting the idle mixture on a 7 year old scoot that suddenly runs bad at WOT after sitting out in the rain, makes little sense.
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Post by necorum on Apr 22, 2013 12:38:10 GMT -6
Ok, I am about to do the idle mixture screw. I did notice gas in my air intake when i took it off earlier today to check the filter for moisture.
Any idea's? FLoat stuck? Carb botched?
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 22, 2013 13:19:04 GMT -6
Yes, it could be float stuck or when you cleaned it you moved the float tab and now it may not be shutting off the fuel at the proper level.
But do the adjustment and then see.
OR you can follow MOATS advice, OH WAIT he did not give any advice he just beached that I was giving the wrong advice. Alleyoop
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Post by necorum on Apr 22, 2013 13:35:22 GMT -6
Ok I set it the way you said this time. I noticed when it was running, underneath had a air flow around the exhaust pipe coming from the motor.... that area I couldnt pin point it.
Will test ride here in a sec.
EDIZT
Forgot to add on my way home it seemed to be flooding.
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Post by Moat on Apr 22, 2013 13:48:01 GMT -6
I noticed when it was running, underneath had a air flow around the exhaust pipe coming from the motor.... that area I couldnt pin point it. Most likely that was just normal airflow from the cooling fan you felt there.
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Post by necorum on Apr 22, 2013 15:02:12 GMT -6
Update.
Ok I did not die at WOT (anymore). I turned the idle screw up so i could hear the engine rev better and tuned the air screw til its highest rpms then turned the idle screw down til the wheel wants to turn on the stand, but doesnt.
I still have lost 5 mph somehow though........... any idea's
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Post by necorum on Apr 22, 2013 16:37:20 GMT -6
I went to test the new spark plug again and just holding the spark plug wire and nothing else I get a little jolt through the wire and brake lever?
Issue fixed.
Edit
So i noticed my spark is orangish to blue and my tip of my spark plug was rather loose. Replaced the tip and tightened down my coil wires posi and neg.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 22, 2013 17:22:15 GMT -6
Are you talking about the TIP on the spark Plug that you screw on? If so unscrew that off and leave the bare threads on the plug and put the BOOT CAP ON. In the picture what they call the CONNECTOR TO PLUG WIRE? Alleyoop
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Post by necorum on Apr 22, 2013 17:33:48 GMT -6
Yeah that was what was loose, I just replaced it.
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Post by Moat on Apr 22, 2013 17:42:58 GMT -6
I went to test the new spark plug again and just holding the spark plug wire and nothing else I get a little jolt through the wire and brake lever? The spark leaking I mentioned in an earlier post could very well be the cause of your wet-running problems. Getting a jolt like you said is an indicator that the wire's insulation is not up to snuff, and could stand being replaced. Leaks/shorts like that will only be much worse when wet. Depending on the way the wire is mounted into the coil (some are molded to the coil in one piece - others are plugged and screwed into the coil - even others have an additional threaded cap to hold the wire in place) - you might be able to replace the wire alone, or otherwise just replace the coil/wire/cap as a unit. A worthwhile test might be to spray the coil/wire/cap with water, while the scoot is running in the dark (at night) - sometimes a spark leaking/shorting will be visible and/or audible.
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Post by Moat on Apr 22, 2013 17:49:38 GMT -6
Yeah that was what was loose, I just replaced it. Some spark plug caps require that the threaded tip is installed - some caps require that it be removed. Which does your cap fit?
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Post by necorum on Apr 22, 2013 18:41:05 GMT -6
It needs to be on. Its a ngk wire from the coil. She is running fine atm, as in I can get to college etc. My main issue now is the top speed.
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