Just bought a used scooter and could use advice By aaronl8n (Read 2,680 times)

[FrankenMech]

The regular NGK C7HSA -or- CR7HSA (resistor version) are usually less than $2 at your local auto parts store. Your plug wire probably already has a resistor built into it to cut down RFI but the resistor plug does not hurt. I am running the CR version and it seems to be fine.

Alley is right, you will need to check your belt.

Your oil is OK now, just use the 4T long term. The type of wear the older 4T spec oil prevents is very slow. AFAIK 4T refers to four stroke and 2T is for two stroke engines.

My manual did not come with most replacement parts specified either.

[scooterbob]

Try some Turtle Wax Ice on all surfaces.

[Guitarman]

Friday night I ordered some parts from ScooterParts4Less.com and they came UPS today (Wednesday). That's pretty fast service. The parts look to be good quality. They are solid and not lightweight el-cheapos.

I got;

A new set of front forks. (seals blew on the originals)
New ignition switch with keys, and seat box and gas cover locks.
A wire connector set for replacing or repairing wire harness connectors.
An LED accessory light. (I plan on mounting this as a flood light in front)

So far, I can't complain about this vendor. Fast shipping and good prices. As long as the parts work well, I'll be giving them a solid thumbs up.

[FrankenMech]

That is a good thing about having a popular type of scooter, -parts availability. Let us know how the parts work out.

On my scoot I kind off have to mix and match. It uses a lot of stock parts but from different machines. The front end is off some type of ATV I have not determined yet (obviously Chinese). Fenders are off regular scooters, etc.

I just arranged to return my LED front 'white lights' for cracks in the lenses. Some of the cracks are almost the same between units. Probably stress fractures from the manufacturing process. I ordered another set from a different vendor. They will be here Saturday thanks to Amazon Prime.

My Asian scooter connector set off Ebay came with a huge assortment of connector pins and bodies. The only type I did not get was the CDI box connector parts. There are some vendors that $ell the pigtail connections by them$elves. Crimping the connectors is real fun. You will need a very good crimper, not the standard crimpers found in stores used for automotive electrical work. I got one off Ebay and found out why it was on sale there. One of the die sets was not fully formed so I had to finish it myself. It 'works' but needs more shaping with a die file. The metal is hard which makes it difficult. I have been eyeballing another one. I had a good AMP crimper but it is long gone, borrowed or given away.

[aaronl8n]

Nov 7, 2013 5:53:33 GMT -6 Guitarman said:

Friday night I ordered some parts from ScooterParts4Less.com and they came UPS today (Wednesday). That's pretty fast service. The parts look to be good quality. They are solid and not lightweight el-cheapos.

I got;

A new set of front forks. (seals blew on the originals)
New ignition switch with keys, and seat box and gas cover locks.
A wire connector set for replacing or repairing wire harness connectors.
An LED accessory light. (I plan on mounting this as a flood light in front)

So far, I can't complain about this vendor. Fast shipping and good prices. As long as the parts work well, I'll be giving them a solid thumbs up.

Do you have a link for the seat box by any chance? I couldn't find it on the site.


thanks!

[simularity]

There are so many belt sizes it is best to check and see what is currently on it and then you can work from there. hehe

[Guitarman]

aaron,
I think this is your bike...

www.roketa.com/product/product_support.jsp?cateID=2610&sonCateID=0&proID=54255

[aaronl8n]

Nov 8, 2013 2:40:52 GMT -6 Guitarman said:

aaron,
I think this is your bike...

www.roketa.com/product/product_support.jsp?cateID=2610&sonCateID=0&proID=54255

I think you're right! thanks, i wish the site had some prices.

I replaced my tail light today, and took the tape off (which turned out to be a nightmare) One piece was completely held on by the tape, and on the other side i found a crappy metal bracket with screws screwed into the plastic covered by tape. Turns out fixing the plastic may be a bigger pain than i realized.

I test drove it on a some what steep hill yesterday and it was only going 15 mph and seemed to be loosing even more power. I was wondering if I replace the air filter and plug if this would fix it a little bit?

I don't have an impact wrench for the belt right now, so that's on hold.
I'm wondering how much money I should pour into this thing and if its actually worth it. I figured with the plug and air filter it would go faster up these steeper hills (because 14mph is definitely not going to cut it for me & I live in SW Virginia where there are quite a few steep hills) and those 2 parts wouldn't cost me much maybe only $20 max.

So would it be possible to get the scooter to go at least 20 up a steep hill, with only a few minor upgrades?

[Alleyoop]

I am afraid the plug and filter will not help you gain any speed going up the hill. What the motor needs is more RPMS and that requires most likely lighter weights that what is in the Variator right now. The Weights are not expensive but there again you need to take the CVT off and the Variator off.
Alleyoop

[Guitarman]

When you click on a parts section you get a bigger picture that is numbered. Look the numbers up in the table below and you should find the prices.

[aaronl8n]

Nov 10, 2013 21:07:00 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

I am afraid the plug and filter will not help you gain any speed going up the hill. What the motor needs is more RPMS and that requires most likely lighter weights that what is in the Variator right now. The Weights are not expensive but there again you need to take the CVT off and the Variator off.
Alleyoop

So at this point should i just sell it and try to find a better scooter? I paid about 45.00 for the light. So im about 380.00 into it, and it runs like crap.. honestly I havent been able to get it over 35 mph, even down some steep hills.

Should I try to sell it for 350.00 and try to buy a better one that needs less work?

Im starting to feel like fixing this one up will cost me more than its worth. Would definitely like an opinion from you guys who know more about this kind of stuff than me.

Thanks guys!

[Alleyoop]

Well you do know that the 50cc scoots only will do around 30mph some if your lucky will do a little better 30+ but they will not do much more than that without a Big Bore Kit on them in other words a bigger piston to make more power. If yours does 35mph that is really good for a stock 50cc scoot. But your complaining about going up the a hill and a 50cc will slow down to say 20mph IF IT IS running good slower if it is not setup right.

So if you want to go around 50mph you will need to get a 150cc scoot.
Alleyoop

P.S.
Just remember no matter which scoot you buy IF your going to change weights and or belts which eventually you will have to do YOU WILL NEED AN IMPACT WRENCH no two ways about it.

[pmatulew]

A well used 50 in complete and working order is going to be worth between $500 and $800. The scoot you have still needs some work and you're in for $380 already.

It sounds like the performance of a 50 doesn't measure up to your needs. So add up the cost of the repairs this one still needs and see if you think you can get your investment back. If you enjoy the work it may be worth it for the learning experience. Or sell it as is and move on to something bigger.

I love the Frankenstein rivet plates by the way.

[kz1000st]

If you live some place hilly and they're steep I would suggest looking through Craigslist ( www.craigslist.org ) for a used motorcycle. They can be had for $600 or less, many that need only a cleaning and tune up. Even a 150cc scooter has its limitations. My 250cc scooter even struggles up some steep grades that my wife's 250 Rebel scales with ease.

[FrankenMech]

Be very careful when you remove that tape adhesive. Some solvents will take it off and the plastic also. Keep the solvent off the painted logo on the side or it will be gone quicker than the adhesive. Some mild solvents like rubbing alcohol may work slowly on the adhesive but let the plastic alone. I am not recommending rubbing alcohol for the job. Test any solvent you use on hidden places first.

Frankenstein patch plates work better on the inside of plastic parts. There are adhesives like Gorilla Glue that will hold them almost as well as screws. Surface prep is important when using adhesives. Your local body shop guys may have some ideas. Auto parts stores have lots of repair materials.