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Post by mxmatt on Feb 22, 2014 19:26:11 GMT -6
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 22, 2014 19:54:23 GMT -6
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Post by Bashan on Feb 22, 2014 22:00:51 GMT -6
Well that one is also 5 wire, but if that is what you want the black is a 12v DC that runs to the ignition switch. You could power the auto choke with either the AC yellow or the DC black. The auto choke doesn't care. I put a diode in to show, in part, how the R/R handles current. First of all the diode is inside the R/R and I put it outside just for demonstrative purposes. There are more diodes than that. However, some circuit configurations actually do have a diode outside the R/R that makes sure the current moves in the correct direction. They look like a small R/R and have only two wires. Also, before anybody starts going on about the direction of the diode symbol, different authorities point it different directions. However, electrons are negative and they move towards the opposite polarity, the positive terminal which is the anode. The cathode is the negative terminal and electrons actually move AWAY from it towards the positive anode. DC current does not flow out of the red terminal, it flows towards it. That is why the inline fuse is just before the red terminal. A surge of electrons will hit the fuse before entering the electron sink which is the battery. It pops the fuse and your system is protected...and you run to Auto Weinie to get another fuse for a buck...aw...poor baby. That is also why the red cable is so much bigger, the aggregate of electron flow is funneling into that cable, not the other way around. All of those grounds you hook up are carrying electrons towards the red terminal. The red terminal positive flowing to the black negative is actually a derivative of Ben Franklin's erroneous, yet forward thinking theory of electricity.
So to use that R/R you'd wire it up like this I think:
The blue arrows are the electron flow. Does that look about right John? John is an electrician for the big apple and deals with mega voltages. But juice is juice right John? John? bzzt....John?
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Post by mxmatt on Feb 22, 2014 22:21:30 GMT -6
Ship that thing yesterday John. How do I pay you? *kneeling down in worship to the great god Bashan*
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Post by Bashan on Feb 22, 2014 22:38:50 GMT -6
Yes my son, your current flows strong and er...uh...heterodiatomically! You're a good guy, sleep well. Rich
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Post by mxmatt on Feb 24, 2014 17:23:17 GMT -6
Couple new photos of the RR:
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 24, 2014 18:12:57 GMT -6
MX I'm less than 100% sure , if you want to take a shot .
John
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Post by Bashan on Feb 24, 2014 19:54:22 GMT -6
What happened to the R/R with the black wire? I kinda liked that idea. Hook the yellow from stator to yellow on R/R, hook the white from stator to pink on R/R, hook the green round from stator to green on R/R, red from R/R goes to battery. If you're concerned about the red/white set your meter to AC and put it in series on the wire. i.e. probe in end of red/white and ground the other, polarity doesn't matter on AC. Start the engine, you will probably get about 12v AC on the red/white. I will be very surprised if that plays out differently.
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 24, 2014 20:03:47 GMT -6
What happened to the R/R with the black wire? I kinda liked that idea. Hook the yellow from stator to yellow on R/R, hook the white from stator to pink on R/R, hook the green round from stator to green on R/R, red from R/R goes to battery. If you're concerned about the red/white set your meter to AC and put it in series on the wire. i.e. probe in end of red/white and ground the other, polarity doesn't matter on AC. Start the engine, you will probably get about 12v AC on the red/white. I will be very surprised if that plays out differently. Rich I won't argue , but it is not our dime . If he wants to give it a go thats his choice . John
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Post by mxmatt on Feb 24, 2014 21:00:58 GMT -6
What happened to the R/R with the black wire? I kinda liked that idea. Hook the yellow from stator to yellow on R/R, hook the white from stator to pink on R/R, hook the green round from stator to green on R/R, red from R/R goes to battery. If you're concerned about the red/white set your meter to AC and put it in series on the wire. i.e. probe in end of red/white and ground the other, polarity doesn't matter on AC. Start the engine, you will probably get about 12v AC on the red/white. I will be very surprised if that plays out differently. Rich, John asked me to get a picture of the stator wire. That is what you were seeing with the black wire. This is the R/R wires. Make sense now?
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Post by mxmatt on Feb 24, 2014 21:01:56 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Feb 24, 2014 21:28:03 GMT -6
If you'll take note in his last photos the red/white wire is separate from the main plug on a bullet connector, while not very common this is typical of the old 5-wire R/R that was used on older Tank and early Roketa scooters. I can't see the color wire it's plugged into but I'm betting black.
The red/white wire puts out nothing but rather receives 12Vdc from the key switch when on. It is a voltage read wire only or a input wire which tells the R/R what voltage demand is needed.
With a fully charged battery unhook the bullet connector and turn the key on and see if you read 12Vdc+ on the wire that plugs into the red/white wire.
I know I've got a good generic 5-wire diagram if I can find it but here is a old one from a verucci scooter:
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 24, 2014 21:47:58 GMT -6
So one like this should work since the only one that is different is the BLACK and not R/W. Alleyoop Or this one
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Post by JR on Feb 24, 2014 22:01:53 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 24, 2014 22:21:46 GMT -6
That one does not match the wire colors to the slots shown on his. The One I put up matchs the color wire with the slots the only one that is different is no RED AND WHITE it looks black.
Now if we new what each wire internally did in there then we would have it knocked(HEHE). Alleyoop
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