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I have a Roketa MC-18 B that was delivered sans MCO, and all I could wrangle out of the dealer was the VIN number on a bill of sale.

Since I don't mind fighting the law until the law wins, we decided to go full outlaw and chop it down to look as much like a 50 as we could. This required some 50 cc "Racing" stickers for it so we cruised all the motorcycle shops that were open today.

The Harley shop was closed, they prolly all went to Red River, but the Ducati/Triumph shop was open and they had free doughnuts and bottled water! Nice guys, they let me sit all over the Bonnevilles and asked 'What are you riding now?'

A Honda Silverwing.

It seemed like the place went quiet, and I heard a wrench ping on the floor in the back room. Maybe it was just me.

We went to the Honda shop, and there were desperate salesmen idling about, and they were itching to slink over and 'Can i helpyou' when I sat on a Shadow 750, but the Bonneville 900 outclassed it completely, so we asked if there was a Kawasaki shop, and it was nearby.

You guys oughtta but some doughnuts, people like doughnuts.

The Kawasaki shop had a tub full of sodas and ice, and a nice fruit cup with toothpicks for mangoes and pineapples.

Nobody had any stickers, or Ninja 250's, which is what my buddy was looking for. He was riding my Kymco Xciting, which is way more awesomer than a pedestrian Ninja, but hey, I'll wave to anybody, even the weekend dudes with the fat girls on the back.

You pretty much need a 1200 if you're going to carry a fat girl around.

Yeah, it's actually very easy to take the rear wheel off once you get started. There's a bearing in the swing arm that may even be causing the noise.
You'll need an impact wrench, and just start with the muffler, then the brake, then the shock, then the swing arm, then the wheel.

Then start the engine and see if it still makes the noise with the wheel off.

What about wind chill?

Is the air introduced at 45 miles an hour cooler than stationary air?

A scientific approach determines not what is true, but what is not true. Then it eliminates all possibilities but the truth.

The objective of the test is to prove the scoop doesn't work.

Anyone can build an air conditioned Space Shuttle Lunar Module Martian Rover with parts he bought at Home Depot and The Dollar Store, and when no one can prove it won't work, they'll send it up.

Godspeed, you brave astronauts on the Space Scooter, bring us back some rocks.

They put grease in the drain line to keep it from leaking and when you drain it, the grease rinses out. I had one carb that wouldn't drain so I removed it and blew a wad of grease out of it.

You need a valve adjustment. Try it, you'll like it.

Yeah, I'm inclined to trust the engineers who designed the engine to have optimized the efficiency of all aspects before bringing it to production.

But I've never run a Gy6 at more than 6000 RPMs, so I'm only examining operation at less then optimum anyway. And I haven't had a cooling problem, either, at any ambient temperature.

I thought the scoop would be problematic at subfreezing temperatures, but it had no adverse effect, which would indicate its lack of influence on overall conditions.

If it was to enhance cooling, it certainly didn't increase as the air temperature dropped.

I think Bashan's work sets a threshold of 250 degrees as an operating temperature, so anything greater would be too hot, (perhaps), and anything less would be better (maybe).