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Smallest ID is the scoop at 4.05" Shroud with louvers removed is 4.25"

Airflow appears improved at idle, and is assumed to be optimum as directed at 40 miles an hour.

Chicken thermometer testing required for conclusive results.

In theory, it shouldn't work. In practicality, I believe it does, just like I believe the snorkle is to prevent the fuel bowl from boiling as it sits over a hot engine while idling.

Will somebody please prove me wrong, so we can put the issue to rest?

Well, I haven't done a bona fide study with a thermometer, but I have removed all the vanes from my fan shroud and fitted a custom built scoop with a kitchen screen that works very well.

It draws in air free from the heat of the exhaust pipe, and is oriented to scoop air in from the front while under way, and up from the exhaust at idle.

Since you have all the latest technological advances known to man, Bashan, why don't you PM me your address, and I will send you an example for review.

Two bolts and 2 screws hold the fan shroud on, so installation takes 5 minutes, and you be scoopin'. just make sure the top forward tab on the shroud fits correctly with the corresponding edge on the top shroud, and you might have to relieve alittle from the black side cover on your wife's scooter. She'll never notice if you just keep quiet about doing experiments without her consent. She'll love you even more.

Constuction is from a roofing gutter 4" elbow from Home Depot with a kitchen screen hot glued in place after the louvres are all removed. You get 2 scoops from each elbow, so cost is about 3 dollars for each unit.

If you can prove they work, we'll sell them to neophytes for $39.95 and make enough money to buy a real scooter.

Not really, we'll keep it a secret and have the coolest scooters in the world. Real scooters. Chinese scooters.
Waddaya say, dude, you want a scoop? I'll make you one. Send me your address.

Yeah, that's it, just connect the vacline straight from the port to the pump and abandon the vapor system.

Stick a golf tee in the line from the tank and make sure the gas cap is vented. They usually are, but if not drill a tiny hole in the top.

Sometimes there is only a charcoal cannister, sometimes there is another vent tube to the air box, just seal or plug any open lines once you track down the whole system to keep the valve cover vent working at the airbox.

It's pretty simple once you get started, and if you're not sure, don't destroy anything until you're sure it's extranneous.

I think Bashan posted a bunch of pics and descriptions under "Motorino Maladies"in Tech Help.

Fire it up in the morning and hit the road, Jack. It needs to run before you do any adjusting, so ride, daddy, ride, you gonna have to depend on it sometime, might as well start now.

When in doubt, adjust the valves.

If doubt persists, adjust the valves again.

I can't remember if I tried all 16's but I did try 4 16's and 4 14's, and it bogged pretty bad on the low end.

So I tried 4 12's and 4 14's, and it was really high in RPM's, but wouldn't give any top end.

Now I have 4 16's and 4 12's for optimum top end, even though I would like a little more torque on the low end, but it is the best of the arrangements tried.

I would reccomend all 14's if you don't want to buy $150 worth of sliders, but if you do, you'll have a lifetime supply. I think the next time I go into the variator I'll try all 14's. Right now we've got 2 54B's running with the 12/16 combo, and they are satisfactory.

Check all hoses and fittings and connectors for fuel and vacuum, they should all be tight or they'll leak.

Check the fuse next to the battery for intermittent connection, replace it anyway.

Check wire connection to the coil mounted on the right side of the frame, just follow the plug wire back, and check both ends of that.

Check.