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Post by ce on Feb 9, 2011 15:26:31 GMT -6
Alien baggage pod attached to scooter unit. Time to fill baggage pod with mass quantities of consumable beverages.
Dude, that is awesome! I've got a big trunk that's pink (!) and I think you've hit the solution on the head with a hammer.
If anyone asks, I'll just tell 'em; France, it came from France.
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Post by ce on Feb 2, 2011 23:21:33 GMT -6
Waddaya think, Luke, should I go green on the F4, like the Vog Kommando?
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Post by ce on Feb 2, 2011 22:24:27 GMT -6
Very cool, it is same-same as Znen F4 Interceptor Sabretooth Tiger.
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Post by ce on Jan 19, 2011 9:47:06 GMT -6
Yeah, Luke's right, you can't just tell someone to pull off the enricher and not expect it could be damaged trying to get it back in, it's a pretty delicate instrument.
Not because she's a lady, but because if it is a simple problem, like erfman had, she'll have a real mess to clean up by pursuing the wrong approach.
I doubt it's more than air in the line from changing the fuel filter, so Cindi, get some starting fluid at Walmart, and spray it into the airbox, then start the engine.
With the starting fluid, it comes in a spray can, and it will start stuff by providing a fuel for the engine to burn so that it makes the vaccuum lines function.
Your petcock has a vaccuum line to it, you can suck on it to create a vaccuum and feel the pulsation as the fuel moves through the line. One fuel line goes in the petcock from the tank, then one goes out to the carb, the other line is the vaccuum.
You won't get any fuel in your mouth if you suck the vaccuum line from where it connects to the intake manifold, probably on a T with other vac lines.
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Post by ce on Jan 10, 2011 14:30:23 GMT -6
Maybe I should get a real motorcycle, those are pretty cool.
Meh. Too soon old, too late smart.
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Post by ce on Dec 22, 2010 14:35:48 GMT -6
If you shake it out more than twice, you're not finished.
I'm just sayin'.
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Post by ce on Dec 22, 2010 8:59:38 GMT -6
Ride, Big Daddy, ride.
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Post by ce on Dec 21, 2010 21:42:57 GMT -6
Float valve is stuck open and it's flooding the engine.
Either open the fuel bowl and adjust it, or just get a new carburetor on ebay and swap it out.
Could also be a bad petcock.
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Post by ce on Dec 8, 2010 14:12:33 GMT -6
I like the extreme mix. I have good results with 16 and 12 gram sliders, the top end is better than with just straight 14 grams, and the torque is a little better on take off.
Try it, you'll like it.
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Post by ce on Dec 1, 2010 22:02:19 GMT -6
Just unfasten the right side of the bottom panel and wedge a block of wood in to hold it down and you can reach all 3 bolts on the exhaust valve cover. On 1 you'll have to use a box end 8mm wrench because there's not much room.
It's easier if you elevate the front end, but you can still get under it on the center stand.
The bottom will flex quite a bit, you can drop both sides, but I just go in with only remove 3 screws.
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Post by ce on Nov 23, 2010 9:17:26 GMT -6
Yeah, there's nothing wrong with it. Prolly just the intake valve closed up.
I adjusted mine and now it starts on the first hit and idles just fine as it warms up at 25 degrees.
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Post by ce on Nov 17, 2010 15:59:18 GMT -6
If you adjusted your float wrong it won't work at WOT. Adjust it to allow more fuel.
You have a 30mm carb.
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Post by ce on Nov 17, 2010 8:45:01 GMT -6
Check the diaphragm for leaks.
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Post by ce on Nov 9, 2010 9:24:35 GMT -6
Dude, you can do the valve adjustment by feel. If the intake valve has any play in it, assume it to be closed. Tic the starter and hang on to the rocker arm with your fingers through a couple revolutions.
If it never loosens up, you have no gap. Tic the starter til the arm is in an upward position and set the gap to .004
Now tic the starter until you have your gap again and check the exhaust valve, it should have a gap as well. Set it to .006 if you can get to it, or just rock it up and down with your fingers til you feel a little gap.
You are now close enough and it should fire right up. I just did this Saturday, ran it hard and found the intake had opened up a bit too much because it was clattering, reset it and it runs better than ever.
I'm not saying this is any correct way to do this, but it is close enough, and I'm riding. All you need to do is leave room for the metal to expand when it heats up.
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Post by ce on Oct 20, 2010 13:43:48 GMT -6
Try a squirt of starting fluid into the airbox before cranking. $2.17 at Walmart
Now everybody says,"oh, no, that shtuff will dissolve all the rubber in the whole system, right down to the tires, and then yer back to ridin' yer Reeboks, so don't get that stuff, you'll be sorry!"
Yeah, well, right now you're wearing the pizzle outta your starter and your battery, and all yer electrical, because it should only take a couple hits to fire your bad boy up, and until you get your valves adjusted and your idle mixture set, you're wearing all parts that weren't intended to be run that hard.
And put that autochoke back on til you get a new one, you're sucking air in there and that don't help, besides, there's nothing wrong with it in the first place.
A nice big squirt of starting fluid when it's cold, stick with it til it warms up, and run it til your cleaner has a chance to work on the passages in the carb.
Then see about the valves, and start staying up late reading the technical threads on 250's here.
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