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Post by ce on Jun 28, 2011 11:23:50 GMT -6
Or a few thousand less, and get a real motorcycle.
There's new T-Max at Bobby J's Yamaha for only $7000 if I recall, and I sat on it in the showroom, so it was coolish, and pretty motorcycley.
I was really there because they had a Purple(!) Morphous out front that they couldn't give away for months, and I could have snogged it for $3500, but I didn't and it disappeared.
I bet Luke snuck over with a trailer and hauled it back to Yuma in the dead of night.
The dude I got my '03 Silverwing from was hiding a Burgman 650 under a cover in his garage when I came to pick up the 'Wing.
Is that a Burgman, I asked, and he kinda sheepishly said, yeah, I think I shouldda kept the Honda... looking at the candyapple red beauty I was easing off the centerstand.
I got the hell outta there pronto, his Burger was cool and all, all silver with silver conchos and black leather bags and stuff, but it sure looked like it weighed 650 pounds.
I suppose I'll have to buy the T Max when it shows up used on Craigslist, after the buyer moves up to a real motorcycle, but I won't sell my 54B to pay for it or anything, I'll just get a shed from Home Depot and put a couple scooters in there.
I sure love scooters.
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Post by ce on Jun 28, 2011 8:07:04 GMT -6
It was an interesting article, but Like Basham said, it was condescendingly written by the motorcycle corps, for a lark, and not really a serious investigation.
Scooters, how very droll. Every one is not quite up to snuff, isn't that peculiar? The only one that was any good was almost a motorcycle, so sad, all that effort to only get so far.
I'm getting a Kymco Xciting 500 this week, to complement my Xciting 250, and my Silverwing, so I'll do a review from a bona fide perspective, one from a scooter tuner who's trying to eke out a miserable 3 mile per hour gain from Chinese scooter.
I'll tell you now though, if you like scooters, and who doesn't, step through a Kymco 250, and see if it isn't a dream on wheels.
And if you like racing Harleys, a Silverwing would get you chased down and beat up if they could catch you. Don't let 'em catch you.
Scooters are for fun, and I'm all about fun.
Like I often tell my friends that ride "real bikes", fast, drunk, and stupid is no way to go through life.
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Post by ce on Jun 25, 2011 20:26:14 GMT -6
The problem is the sliders are too light, only 72 grams. Your rollers were 84 grams.
Try for 78 grams by mixing 3 12s and 3 14s
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Post by ce on Jun 24, 2011 12:54:02 GMT -6
Yeah, the Linhai use 8 rollers, 20x12 size. I get best allaraound results from mixing stock 16 gram with 14 gram, 4 of each alternated in the variator.
It's a little sluggish on take off, but RPMs hold steady and top end is 70 at 6000 or so.
Next stpe is to order some 15 gram, and see if the low end will snap it up a little.
I would suggest you mix 3 23 and 3 20 grams and see if you can get an even rate.
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Post by ce on Jun 23, 2011 20:16:40 GMT -6
Open the diaphragm and raise the clip to lower the needle, that will slow down the flow of fuel through the main jet.
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Post by ce on Jun 18, 2011 12:10:31 GMT -6
120/90/10 : 4.7" W x 18.5" T
130/90/10 : 5.1" W x 19.2" T
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Post by ce on Jun 13, 2011 15:17:10 GMT -6
Just pay close attention and have someone help. Run the engine til the thermostat opens and circulates the coolant and evacuate all the fluid with each exchange, but don't introduce any air at any time.
Have the water and coolant ready to go, the whole exchange takes a couple minutes and only involves about 6 or 7 liters all together
Have a big catch pan and watch the changes as the fluid drains, then seal it back up.
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Post by ce on Jun 13, 2011 11:17:19 GMT -6
Dude, you need to change the coolant, especially if it is the factory stuff, which is a watery sky blue in color.
Open the radiator cap and start the egine after loosening the drain plug so you can spin it out with your fingers.
Let it run for 3 minutes, then open the drain. Pour a gallon of distilled water into the radiator and watch the draining fluid until it turns clear. Then pour in the new coolant until the drain shows it coming through.
Replace drain plug, fill radiator and evacuate old coolant form overflow and replace with coolant.
The trick is to not allow any air into the system, but if you're careful, it's easy, and no burping is required.
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Post by ce on Jun 12, 2011 21:21:52 GMT -6
Excellent, excellent, you are making astounding progress, and we have every confidence in your impending success.
Carry on.
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Post by ce on Jun 12, 2011 19:56:31 GMT -6
What's wrong with the carb that's on the scoot? Looks fine from here, they prolly just yanked all the hoses of and didn't muck it because they didn't know how to get it off. I'd just hook it up and see if it runs first.
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Post by ce on Jun 11, 2011 21:27:08 GMT -6
OK, now do a search on the Doc for "Motorino maladies", a thread by Bashan that details the function of all these devices. Do it, you need it, he is awesome.
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Post by ce on Jun 11, 2011 21:05:11 GMT -6
Yer wearin' me out, Turtle, yer wearin' me out.
OK, that elbow is the fuel bowl vent, and it's supposed to be down and cut for a venturi to draw overflowing fuel out of the fuel bowl if the float valve fails to check the flow. It is specific in that form, so keep it on there, and pointed dow, just a piece of tube won't work.
Number 2 is the Pulsed Air Injection Reburn valve, and I think it should be connected to number 3 to draw clean air from the cannister to pulse into the exhaust to burn any fuel left over from combustion in the cylinder.
The big hose on number 3 should go to the airbox, but it looks like most of this stuff was disconnected, so maybe cap it off with plugs and stuff to keep from having air leaks.
The fuel drain may be missing, it should be bolted to the front bottom of the CVT cover.
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Post by ce on Jun 11, 2011 14:53:17 GMT -6
First pic, connect marked left nipple to brass nipple in view on right side of pic, that is the aircut off valve.
Second marked nipple goes to fuel pump.
Second pic, capped nipples are abandoned and were not used to route coolant through carburetor, so they are not used. Disregard, they are cosmetically capped and have no function.
Bottom marked nipple is fuel drain, a coil wrapped hose attached to CVT cover with a drain screw in a housing.
Pic 3 is air cut off valve, as discussed, connect to first nipple on intake manifold.
Usually there are charcoal cannisters and fuel vapor recovery system, and a Pulsed Air Injection Reburn system all sharing these same two vacuum ports on the manifold, but what I described will operate all neccessary functions.
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Post by ce on Jun 11, 2011 8:33:31 GMT -6
If your tank is higher than your carb, you have a petcock, and they're reliable unless there's a vacuum leak, so fuel delivery should be fine. Inside the carb the float valve is open as long as the bowl is draining, ie. WOT delivery, and closes at idle to keep from overflowing.
Even with a too small main jet, you shouldn't get a flameout, it would kinda sputter and recover, but if you're sure it's a fuel problem, open the carb up and see what main jet you have, probably a 105, and put in a 110, and also examine the float level setting.
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Post by ce on Jun 11, 2011 7:41:38 GMT -6
Check the connections to the coil, and the wire to the plug. These usually loosen up with the first vibrations of break in and cause erratic ignition. Squeeze the connectors tight.
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