Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

OK, check the spark plug and the connections to the coil, make sure the plug wire is screwed onto the coil securly.

CDI new
CVT checked
Carb checked
Valves checked

Check fuel petcock or pump and fuel filter, it may be in backwards, the large end goes toward the carb.

That plug from the enricher should have a mate over in the wire bundle on the right side of the frame, there will be only one that fits it.

The enricher adds more fuel to the carb when the engine is cold, and then shuts off in about a minute and then it runs on the idle circuit, which is what you're adjusting with the A/F screw.

Usually you only need the enricher in the winter, which on South Beach would be never, but it should still be plugged in, so check it out next time you're under the seat.

Did you ever get that loose connector attached to the enricher hooked up?

There should be a plug that fits it in the wires over on the right side of the frame.

His filter looks good, it's between the tank and the pump just above the clear tube.

There may be a problem with the vac lines not sucking enough to keep the fuel bowl full, so check all connections from the manifold back. An air leak will disable the pump, which is the silver thingy on the left side of the frame.

You should have a fuel drain screw attached to the CVT cover, it's a coil wrapped tube with a screw in the end, open that screw and catch the fuel in a cup to see if there's any effluvium in the fuel bowl.

Nothing worse for a fuel bowl than effluvium.

If it's clean, tighten the screw and crank the starter til the pump fills up the bowl again, or suck on the vac line of the pump, and that will fill the bowl, then it should start, unless the float valve has gotten stuck, then you have to open the carb for explanatory surgery.

The pump vac line is connected to the intake manifold, and is different from the fuel in and fuel out lines, just give it a sucka sucka sucka sucka and you'll hear the fuel move through the pump, and besides, it's a very good way to get more familiar with your scooter.

Too loose will just make it tick like a spastic jackhammer, but it won't make it stall, sounds like you got it set pretty good or you'd be freakin' up over the valve clatter.

So you need to set the idle up to 2000 RPMs and blind wrench the idle mixture screw to lean out the mix a little by turning it clockwise one turn.

Stay with me, I'll "show" you the ropes on blind wrenching.

You know where the idle mix screw is, right, on the bottom of the carb by the manifold, oui?

It's a protuberant screw that you can get to with your little monkey hand reaching in and down along the right side of the carb. Feel the screw and find the slot with your fingernail. You should feel about 2 threads exposed on the screw raised from flush.

Now take a P-38 can opener left over from a box of C-rations from World War II, and stick it in the slot and turn it clockwise, or right. It's kinda hard to stay oriented, because now you're blind and upside down, but just work it around with your fingers til you complete a revolution on the screw.

Now start the engine and see if it will idle at 2000, if it won't idle it may already be too lean, but wait for it to warm up and then see if it smooths out.

If it's too lean, reverse the screw to the starting point with the P-38, then go another turn to make it richer.

Of course you may just loosen the clamps fore and aft on the carb, turn it on its side and visually inspect the position of the screw, but that wouldn't be fair to all the blind wrenchers who perform this operation without looking, and you have to keep pulling the carb out to adjust it.

You can do it blind until the engine gets too hot, and then you'll be doing wounded wrenching due to the burned hands and fingers, and the pain and fear lead to inconclusive results.

Roketa.com, they got yer bushing for three dollars.

Search roketa parts and go to the one for atv and fitness, open the scooter section and it should come up on the 54B, look in the engine section.