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Post by ce on Sept 20, 2011 13:22:26 GMT -6
Stick with the 250B, it's a fun scooter.
My friend Mary Ann and I each ordered one back in '08 from Mrs. Cooters, hers was blue, mine red, and we PDI'd 'em with oil and coolant and checking, but hers wouldn't start reliably, and she wouldn't wrench, so she called Russell, and he picked it up and brought it back fixed for $150.
I mickeyed and monkeyed with mine and got it running fine, but it still never started or idled as well as hers no matter what I did. Russell did something, but we never knew what, and I never had the chance to ask what he did.
We toured New Mexico for a year and put 5,000 miles on each scooter, then she bought a Majesty and I bought her 250B, and she rolled on another 22,000 miles with some other riders on Harley's and stuff, and I'm too busy wrenching scooters to do much touring, but I dig it, and I still like the 250B because it is afirly easy to work on, I've never had a rear panel off, I cut a couple holes in the seat bucket to adjust the valves on top, and just drop the belly pan for the bottom.
With a Big Shot exhaust, a 42 mm filter stuck in the airbox, a 40 pilot and a 125 main jet, it's 75 miles an hour at 70 miles a gallon.
I'd like to try a 244, so when one comes up on Craigslist I'll buy one, especially a Helix type, it would look awesome with an Apocalypto paint job, with some animal skins and horns.
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Post by ce on Sept 19, 2011 12:31:30 GMT -6
I'm the one pacing back and forth here, smoking cigarettes, drinking coffee, trying to get some sleep and then starting all over waiting for this damn scooter to start and run.
I know you're the best mechanic on South Beach, Shannon, but we can't have you looking under any wrong rocks here, and if I'm pulling my hair going: What!? What?! I can't help it, because you're there, and we're someplace else watching helpless from a distance.
So carry on, you're doing fine, I'm gonna go move the needle up 2 clicks in my diaphragm to see if I can resolve my low end mid range bog, since I dropped my main jet in the 26mm carb from 110 to 108.
Sometimes we struggle alone.
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Post by ce on Sept 19, 2011 10:31:22 GMT -6
It just isn't possible to have a half inch fuel line on a 50cc engine.
Try 3/16, which is less than a quarter inch. You probably already have a piece of it attached to your new carb and fuel filter, see if it fits your application.
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Post by ce on Sept 18, 2011 20:17:07 GMT -6
Optimum idle speed is 2000 rpms, not 1800 as published.
Also the gas cap usually needs to have a vent hole drilled in it as the fuel vapor rcovery system is problematic, There's a vent in the gas tank neck, it goes to a charcoal cannister at the rear .
Make sure the header bolts are tight, and shorten the vac line to th fuel pump if necessary.
Check the connections to the coil and spark plug wire.
Upjet the carb to a 38 pilot and 120 main. You prolly have a 35 115.
It does sound like an air leak, as Alley noted, and 5 year old Chinese vac lines are suspect. Plus, 2007 was a very bad year for rubber, so change your valve stems in the wheels at your earliest convenience.
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Post by ce on Aug 31, 2011 14:48:59 GMT -6
That's not an overflow tube, it's a fuel bowl drain.
There should be a screw in the end of it, but it's probably lost now. Detach the drain from the CVT cover and raise the tube up inside the scoot so it's not just dangling down.
For now you can put a bolt in it and zip tie it up on the frame somewhere, but it needs the special screw to seal the drain, so order one because a bolt won't seal it completely.
You need a fuel bowl drain screw, it's tapered to a point.
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Post by ce on Aug 29, 2011 8:21:35 GMT -6
Yeah, a couple screws and a bolt hold the side panel, then the belly pan is hooked on at the rear. Just pull it down and wedge a 2x4 to hold it and you'll see the filter by the right side of the tank.
But if it's new, why replace it? You may have vibrated the fuel drain screw loose, it's the wire wrapped hose from the bottom of the carb connected to the CVT, make sure the screw in the end is tight.
Check your vapor recovery system line from the tank back to the charcoal cannister on the right side of the engine.
We are talking about a 257, n'est pas?
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Post by ce on Aug 28, 2011 20:34:42 GMT -6
Sounds like the needle spring is out of position, remove the needle from the diaphragm and examine. Also check the vac line to the air cutoff valve.
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Post by ce on Aug 28, 2011 20:29:43 GMT -6
Papa likes Mambo
Mama likes Mambo
Baby likes Mambo
But it ain't gonna change yer tone to a deep throaty roar. For that you need P&P Shark Tip, with a 40 millimeter tube.
I put one on my MC-18 B, and it sounds way cool, but it was expensive, and kinda flopped around til I secured it better.
I drilled my sons stock muffler with a 1/4 " bit right under the spigot, and it sounds better, but it's not borderline obnoxious like mine.
So if you want something to really be a main passion in your life, start making all those mods you're dreaming of.
Go ahead, I dare ya.
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Post by ce on Aug 28, 2011 18:42:43 GMT -6
Well, if the petcock is working, I'd just keep running it and give your scoot a good break in.
It seems like you might have had something in the fuel somewhere, so rock it hard and ride it like you steal 'em for a living, at least you've got all the parts you need to fix it now.
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Post by ce on Aug 27, 2011 14:21:41 GMT -6
Well, he didn't notice it was gone for 150 miles, then he had to go back and get it.
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Post by ce on Aug 26, 2011 12:30:12 GMT -6
Just drill a little hole under the outlet, run it, see how you like it, drill a bigger hole, try it again, then drill a bigger hole, but don't go out and buy a big ol' Mongo drill bit just so you can keep drilling.
You can feel the reduced back pressure and the engine will breathe a little easier, it's not really louder if you didn't get the Mongo bit, and at WOT you'll get a nice response, so drill, baby, drill.
Then get a 26 mm carburetor on ebay for like $35 and put a 110 main jet and leave the stock pilot jet, don't worry about the airbox, it'll be fine with the new carb, but you could drill it out a little bit, too, someplace where no water or dirt can get into the filter.
Then send me $30, and I'll send you a coolscoop fan shroud for the ne plus ultra mod that'll make your scooter the coolest thing on your street.
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Post by ce on Aug 24, 2011 21:00:27 GMT -6
Yeah, babystraights, you are all right.
It's kinda hard to convey to you what we're thinking in diagnostics, but as you built your repertoire you began to develop your own skill and make relevant observations.
We're still not out of the woods yet, and we are depending on your sole expertise to complete the repair. In this, we have every confidence.
As far as we know, you are the only qualified scooter mechanic on South Beach, so let's get your motor running, and head out on the highway, looking for adventure, and whatever comes your way.
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Post by ce on Aug 23, 2011 9:57:48 GMT -6
Looks like they left out the slide guides on those pins, that's why they're worn away.
Good plan on the variator with the new roller combo, sounds like the 13 grams were holding back a little, try 3 12s and 3 13s which is 75, to lower your total roller weight by 3 grams.
It'll be a litle peppier, and as long as the RPMs don't go too high, you might get a little more top end.
If that don't work, try 3 14s and 3 12s, which is 78, same as 6 13s
If that don't work try 3 13s and 3 14s, which is 81
And, of course, you can always go 6 12s, which would be 72, and that may be your lucky number.
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Post by ce on Aug 21, 2011 19:20:20 GMT -6
Vac leak somewhere, not enough vacuum at WOT to keep the fuel bowl full.
Check all vac fittings, cut new end to line to air cutoff valve, check for pinched fuel line, and then you prolly need to up jet to a 120 main or raise the diaphragm needle.
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Post by ce on Aug 19, 2011 14:42:58 GMT -6
Loosen the clamps holding the carb to the intake and the manifold and turn the carb itself about a quarter turn to bring the bottom of the carb into view.
The carb drain will be at the back, and in the middle of the front side of the bottom of the carb, you will see a brass screw all by itself. Turn it a half turn counterclockwise to richen the mix, center the carb and tighten the clamps and test the idle.
That's only if your certain the idle speed screw is already set to idle at 2000 RPMs, which if it isn't may be what your ilde problem is anyway.
The Chinese reccomend 1500 to 1800 idle speed, but those are Chinolutions Per Minute, and here in the USA we need to beef that up to 2000 or the engine dies a lot.
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