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Post by ce on Oct 12, 2011 9:42:01 GMT -6
An amphibious scooter, deucedly clever those inscrutable orientals, eh, wot?
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Post by ce on Oct 10, 2011 19:34:42 GMT -6
Uh, dude, the .004 and .005 is in inches, not millimeters.
I don't know what .005 and .007 millimeters is in inches, dude, I can barely handle the Chinese, but it sounds small and foreign, not like Chinese foreign, but like European foreign...
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Post by ce on Oct 10, 2011 19:24:40 GMT -6
Sounds like the exhaust valve has closed up.
I'd set the intake and the exhaust at .004, if it clatters too much, go to .002 inches
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Post by ce on Oct 10, 2011 15:20:57 GMT -6
The 257, pretty much the exact same scooter. And grocerygetter also has another scooter with the 244, which is interesting, because I'd like to know if that could conquer the mountain.
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Post by ce on Oct 10, 2011 14:30:54 GMT -6
You have 16 gram rollers and a quart of schwarzgrasse in your variator now. That's too heavy to climb hills two up.
I managed to get to 11,000 feet up in Santa Fe, but it was pretty slow, and I was even solo on the B.
I invested in some Dr Pulley sliders and bought 12, 14, and 16 grams. After several attempts at incorrect installation, and different combinations of 12/14, 12/16/, and 14/16, I outfitted both my B's with 12/16 sliders after cleaning out the scwarzgrasse, and still have a complete set of 14s left over.
The blue B ran a little slow on the takeoff with good midrange response and a top end of 75 chinese. Hill climbing was improved, but not stellar. The boss in the variator developed a crusty cheese around the axle and slowed performance, so after cleaning the sliders were replaced with 14/16 rollers, but by now it had 9,000 miles on it and developed another limp. It is now awaiting termination after a wreck.
The red B has been cruising fine with the 12/16 sliders, I rode it to work this morning, and I'm still toying with changing back to all 14 rollers, or the all 14 sliders, but with the colder air these days, and 742 idle mixture adjustments, it's running pretty good, and I'm confident I can hit 80 on a straightaway, and hold 60 on a hill.
I did mount the Dragon Custom Double Shot exhaust, which is awesome, and opened the airbox to remove the stock filter and replace it with a 42mm free flow, it fits just stuck in there, and have 40 pilot and 125 main jets.
It starts and idles pretty good after 9 valve adjustments and 6,000 miles, so you'll reach an equilibrium pretty soon once you get broken in, even if you don't go all mod happy.
You won't, will you?
It would cost about $300, and you'd be spending countless dreary winter hours wrenching and cussing and breaking and fixing and trying and finding and hoping and wishing, and then it'll be springtime and you can see daylight again.
ON A CUSTOM HARD CHARGING LINHAI 257!!!
Of course, you have the 244 but I don't know anything about those, you'll have to work it over and let us know what you get, but since it's such a smoothie, I'd rather see you abuse the Linhai, they're tough, they can take it.
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Post by ce on Oct 10, 2011 11:17:08 GMT -6
There's an access panel at the back of the seat bucket to get to the fuse box, and tail lights.
You already checked the fuse next to the battery, nicht?
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Post by ce on Oct 7, 2011 22:10:23 GMT -6
CDI Coil and plug wire Kill switch Rectifier Alarm
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Post by ce on Oct 7, 2011 13:16:58 GMT -6
Suit up and scoot it, dude.
Just get a pair of baggy overpants, rain pants are even better at stopping the wind, some gloves with liners, a scarf for your neck and chest and you're good to 20 degrees.
Tank up on hot tea or coffee before you leave, and pull all yer gear off when you get there, you'll get used to it.
The slower you go, the longer it takes, and the faster you go, the sooner you get cold.
I do a 15 minute run every morning, and unless it snows I can handle it. Don't see too many Harleys in January though.
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Post by ce on Oct 5, 2011 15:24:09 GMT -6
In the meantime you can wrap the air filter with medical gauze to slow down the air flow and try to balance the ratio.
The when you get your 50 mm carb you can open up that dinky 24 mm and see what's in it. It's prolly a 102 0r 103 since it's starving now, a 105 would run fine, a 108 better, and maybe a 100 at the rich end.
It's no big deal, loosen those clamps after you drain the fuel bowl, use a right angle hhilips head to break loose the screws, open it up, switch the jet, put it back on.
Like Bashan sez, you'll only be doing it about a Brazilian times...
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Post by ce on Oct 1, 2011 20:49:11 GMT -6
Those pumps are pretty stout, and if you suck on the vac line to actuate the fuel delivery, it'll suck right back at you pretty quick, so it needs a good bit of vauum just to work. We had one in a 150 that struggled at WOT consistantly, so we replaced it with a used Mikuni dual port out of a snowmoble in Michigan.
Mostly I wanted a cool snowmobile pump, because that has to be fail safe, and we tee'd the two ports together to the fuel inlet, and it still works great.
The Jin Bo that's in there should work, as long as the vacuum is good. It may be the float level in the carb is off or impaired, which might be more intermitant than a complete emptying of the fuel bowl at WOT when the float valve isn't allowing suficient flow to supply the engine at maximum consumption.
As we know, that's when vacuum is lowest as well.
I don't mind pouring in elixirs and potions if it will influence the cure in any way, because all too often we'll be quite facile and say, oh, yeah, just pull that carburetor off and open up the fuel bowl, make sure the float is aligned to 18 millimeters from the side off the bottom of the carb body, now watch that little tab, see how it presses the float needle in, feel the spring tension as it seals against the seat, you don't want it to be too tight, or it won't open, or too loose or it won't close.
So easy, you might not have to do anything, just see if it looks right to you. We'll be right here, 2,000 miles away, if you need any help.
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Post by ce on Sept 30, 2011 21:42:58 GMT -6
Buy some bigger 3/16 T's at the auto parts store and reroute your vac lines so the fuel pump is connected solely to the intake manifold. If you don't have good vacuum to the pump you'll have low fuel pressure. Usually the stock T's are 1/8 "
Charge your battery, it's pretty taxed from using the alarm and cranking the starter, you're probably not getting full spark. Check all your grounds and connectors for corrosion, your scooter sat in a box for 4 years.
You have the Linhai 257 engine.
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Coil help
by: ce - Sept 30, 2011 20:42:40 GMT -6
Post by ce on Sept 30, 2011 20:42:40 GMT -6
Putting zero miles on it for a few months is hard for the carburetor. The passages on the enricher circuit and the pilot jet fuel the engine from takeoff, and they may be gummed up.
Also you have a peculiar idle adjuster with the big plastic knob on it attached to a cable. I broke mine off and had to raise the idle with some needle nose vise grips, but once I got it to stay 1900 RPMS it would start and idle and only occasionally die.
I also sanded the paint off where the coil and ground wire are attached and tightened the connectors.
See if you can raise the idle enough to get it running so you can burn a tankful with Seafoam.
And get a new CDI, you'd need to carry a spare anyway, and it may solve your problem.
Common sense would eschew throwing parts and money at a problem, but we're talking Chinese, we're talking cheap, and we're talking eventual fail of any given part, so soon enough, you'll have all the parts to effect any repair, and sooner or later, you'll need what you have, and have what you need.
We are also assuming you have checked for air leaks, poor connections, etc. blah blah, but it still is a common and simple gremlin that is plaguing your VOG.
I have one like yours and it was pretty tempermental, but once sorted, it rocks.
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Post by ce on Sept 30, 2011 12:55:10 GMT -6
Awesome diagnostics and reporting, this is a valuable affirmation of my personal observations, and a brilliant perspective on reliability and efficiency. Thanks.
I'm running a 40 pilot and 125 main with a Double Shot exhaust from Dragon Custom, and it is pretty impressive. It still feels rich, even though I dropped down to a 35 pilot, which wouldn't even idle, so I went back to the 40, I'll drill out a 115 and see if a leaner top end will be smoother.
I still haven't taken any plastic off to adjust the valves, I drilled a couple holes in the seat bucket and used a swivel socket and a magnet to keep the bolts captive, and just dropped the bottom panel on one side to crawl into the exhaust valve cover, on my back and upside down with the left hand. Maybe it would be easier with the plastic off.
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Coil help
by: ce - Sept 30, 2011 8:13:37 GMT -6
Post by ce on Sept 30, 2011 8:13:37 GMT -6
Stalls after it gets warm, then starts when it cools down, hm, sounds like there's some metal that expands with heat and changes the dynamics of combustion.
Since the valves have already been adjusted, it couldn't be the exhaust valve, could it?
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Post by ce on Sept 22, 2011 20:54:03 GMT -6
The header gasket is like an asbestos ring with a metal backing about a quarter inch thick.
You can get 'em on ebay, but if you just tell the Yamaha shop it's for a Majesty 250, they might have one. It fits up inside the head, and is hard to see when it's in there. You have to loosen the whole exhaust system and slowly tighten it all together so you don't bind any pipe in the wrong position.
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