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Post by ce on Nov 20, 2011 22:17:12 GMT -6
I'm pretty scared to work on the Wing. I changed the oil, and that was no sweat with a Super Tech filter 7317 for $2.84 at Walmart and some 15 w 40 Rotella T fork lift oil.
Next up is a tire change, and then some 26 gram 28 x 20 Dr. Pulley sliders.
And I have a Sumitomo 165 65 13 car tire to put on the rear, but I'm really scared to go Darkside because the sidewalls are so mushy compared to a Shinko. There's a dude on Silverwing forum that has 26,000 miles on a Darkside Sumitomo.
Even scarier is enlisting a motorcycle mechanic to work on it when I'm not around.
Since it's a Honda, I think I'll ride it till it starts making noises or leaking, which was my initial plan.
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Post by ce on Nov 14, 2011 21:28:03 GMT -6
Check the plug wire to be sure both ends are securely attached, and check the wires to the coil.
Check all vacuuum fittings to be sure you have no air leaks or disconnected hoses. It might be the diaphragm, but it's still new, so unlikely.
Let it idle for a while to heat up, then raise the idle speed tp keep it from dying out. Run it for a long time and keep giving it throttle to see if you can get the response back in the throttle.
It just sounds new so be patient and learn how to fiddle with the carb.
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Post by ce on Nov 9, 2011 20:29:51 GMT -6
La manguera del crankcase breather no mas sirve por dejar escapar el pression que sube con el compression del piston. Tambien sale aceite vaporizada, y por eso debe ser connectada normalmente al airbox, que tambien debe tener un tubo de salida por el aceite que se agarre.
En veces no mas tiene una manguera colgando solo, pero esta manera es muy sucio por todo el aceite que sale. Es muy importante de mantener la manguera abierta por que sale el pression o se puede romper una gasketa.
Entonces, deja colgando el fuel drain y el crankcase breather por que no son causa de problema.
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Post by ce on Nov 9, 2011 13:32:31 GMT -6
No se connecta la manguera fuel drain a nada, no mas la deja colgando. Solamente sirve cuando se esta vasiando el fuel bowl.
Pero la crank case breather se connecta al air box (filtro). Que no hay un lugar sin tubo alli? Si esta abierto alguna connection por el vac line, chupa mucho aire, y no corre el motor, no mas chupa aire.
En el techo del carb hay un diaphramo de gommo, si esta torzido o ojerado no se levanta cuando se avanzamas resio.
I reiterated what raford said to just let the drain hose hang, and asked if there isn't a spot on the airbox to put the vent hose, and a loose vac line will suck too much air to run the engine
And to check the rubber diaphragm in the top of the carb for tears or leaks.
Sorry for my Spanish and English
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Post by ce on Nov 9, 2011 10:04:39 GMT -6
La mangera crankcase debe ser connectada con el airbox.
Si se abre la fuel drain y corre bien el motor, pueda que el float valvula esta apretada en mala posicion, y se deja corriendo el gas hasta que se enfloje(?) el motor.
Al mejor, explicame lo que esta pasando de una vez en Espanol por que no estoy seguro que pasa.
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Post by ce on Nov 7, 2011 9:02:12 GMT -6
I turned my daughter loose on a 50 when she got a job at 14. It enhanced her independence and faciliated her entry into adulthood.
She abandoned the first one when the petcock failed, and had the second one stolen. The third one served for another year, then she sold it to buy a car.
She sold the car to buy a Stella 150, and now she has a car and a scooter. I bought the car, of course, and paid for half of the Stella.
Still, I'm helping her because she makes continual progress, and it started when she got her first scooter.
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Post by ce on Nov 2, 2011 11:44:26 GMT -6
Check the two wires connected to the coil, Radford, if they loosen up you'll get intermittent ignition.
I got some RR49 stickers from Peewee in California for my outlaw 150 and cut the rear fender off to make it look smaller. If I get stopped I'll plead ignorance and say I bought it on Ebay from some dude who said not to worry about it because it's a 50. And that dude also put that big P&P muffler on it because loud pipes save lives.
That's only if I get stopped, because I'll fight the law til the law wins, and besides, I can get 57 miles an hour on it, so if you see a Dashcam video of a scofflaw scooter making a run for the border, you'll know what happened.
I'm not trolling for trouble or nothing, every time I see a cop I ease over into the bike lane and look bored like I'm flogging it hard and it just won't go 30 miles an hour.
He's gonna get caught, just you wait and see. Why is everybody always pickin' on me?
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Post by ce on Oct 27, 2011 9:17:45 GMT -6
Maybe a V-guide got chewed up and a roller turned, or the high miles rollers are still in there.
Just gotta open it up and see what's going on.
Research reveals that the Daelim does have a Kymco engine, so belts and rollers are available, but we need to know which engine, the one used in the Grand Vista, Bet'n Win, People, or Exciting
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Post by ce on Oct 26, 2011 20:59:05 GMT -6
It looks like if I ever have a turn signal problem, I'll buy a new scooter.
But for a determined troubleshooter, that sure looks like a complete manual to me.
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Post by ce on Oct 26, 2011 19:44:39 GMT -6
That's a Kymco variator but it may be correct for the Daelim, though. For having high miles it sure is clean in there, and that belt looks new, so someone was in there, and it looks like they put the wrong belt.
Well done getting that cover open, and forget what I said about strong arming some mope to work on it. You're perfectly capable of fixing it on your own, and we are all impressed and willing to help any way we can.
Hit that variator nut 3 times with the impact wrench and it should spin right off. Then pull off the fan and free the belt, then slide the variator off and open it to see if the rollers are in good order. You'll need to measure them, they'll be 20mm x 12mm or 18mm x 14mm or 23 x 18 or 20x15, then weigh them and they'll be 16 gram or 14 gram each, then the easy part is to count them, there'll be either 6 or 8.
The rollers may be new as well, but be sure they fit the variator, as they may be the wrong size as well.
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Post by ce on Oct 25, 2011 19:49:42 GMT -6
Note to self:
Stay the hell out of Florida. It rains all the time, it's too hot to ride or work on scooters when it isnt raining, everything is 60 miles away, and the atmosphere sucks the life out GY6 engines and rots electrics like a Zombie plague.
The people seem nice, though.
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Post by ce on Oct 22, 2011 20:25:58 GMT -6
You should be able to convince a mechanic to fix the transmission their abilities. Anyone who's competant can examine and diagnose the problem.
They're very simple machines compared to the modern motorcyckles they usually work on.
How near is a shop? Usually they send a trailer, pick it up and fix it. These guys are going into winter and they need your business. tell them you'll pay their rate to open it up and diagnose it, then you can order the parts for them to install.
If you are comfortable doing the work, then by all means, proceed, but you can have it done for a fee, I'm sure. If you call a Yamaha shop, tell them it's a Yamaha, a Honda shop, Honda. I trpolly just needs a belt after all those high miles, $150 bucks installed would be fair, less would be better.
Are you a mechanic?
Yes.
My scooter won't go, can you fix it?
Oh, no, I don't work on scooters.
But you said you're a mechanic, I want you to work on my scooter, you have tools, you can figure it out, What do you get, 60 bucks an hour, OK, I'll pay that, but you gotta get started, ready, go, I'm paying for this, now open up that CVT cover, there's a belt, a variator and a clutch in there, see what's wrong with it.
Hurry up, it won't go, and I have ship to do.
I'm sorry, I'll just go wait over here
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Post by ce on Oct 20, 2011 20:57:38 GMT -6
That's a picture of a 244. The exhaust header comes down from the vertical head.
On the 257 it comes back from the front of the engine and along side by the dipstick.
Those '07s a dealer overstocks and you'll get a 257 54B that will require a thorough inspection due to being 5 years old.
Get it running and let it idle for a couple minutee and open the radiator cap, being carefull to hold the plastic pipe so it doesn't break. Now open the coolant drain and pour distilled water in it until the drain runs clear. Flush with more distilled water for a minute, then add new coolant until you see the new coolant draining.
Close the drain, shut the engine off and fill the radiator and close the cap.
Drain the overflow and replace the coolant.
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Post by ce on Oct 20, 2011 20:39:17 GMT -6
If you pull the rubber thingy back on the throttle cable where it comes out of the handgrip, you'll find the throttle cable tension adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable by turning the long nut till all the threads are inside.
You can see it in the left photo of your scoot beneath the right handgrip,
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Post by ce on Oct 12, 2011 20:50:05 GMT -6
Smack it hard with a big rubber hammer or a stout piece of wood. You won't hurt it and you need to break it loose and then wiggle it free. Bang on it all over, it'll come off.
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