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Post by dmartin95 on May 27, 2015 19:21:27 GMT -6
I got a m6 x20mm screw and although it fits into the drain its head does not fit in the hole. i put loctite on it and have yet to attach it to t he bike and turn it on. my question though is what other methods do you suggest in dealing with this issue? should I clamp the hose? seems easier than that flipping screw falling out at random An easy fix would be just to chop it off, and install a 1/4" shut off switch/petcock... It would function the same as your screw and will fit the existing hose.... You could also just snip it off,and a 1/4"m x 1/4"m adapter fitting and put a plug/cap on it. Or, screw a bolt in it and then clamp the hose.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 27, 2015 0:26:03 GMT -6
I haven't seen any big valves for the 4-valve head. Alleyoop Taida makes a 4-Valve Large port head. 23mm Intake, 22 exhaust.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 27, 2015 0:11:37 GMT -6
There we go, now there are numbers. Build an engine with just the 4 valve head and is going to be the biggest single power mod you can do. If you modded with big bore and stroke and got 200cc you still have the 125/150cc breathing on it. I agree 100% I just did this.... I only boosted the cc's up to a 155, and I used a 4 valve head... The power this 4 valve makes is insane. I got on it the other day on a long stretch and was limited by gears at about 67MPH.... I was only at around 7200 RPM's..... In addition, My SMAX is only a 155cc, but it also is a 4 valve with EFI and I've exceeded 80MPH.... So, as someone who's actually converted a GY6 into a 4 valve, I'm firmly in the camp of the "4 valve is the way to go"... I video'd the entire process
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Post by dmartin95 on May 24, 2015 20:47:18 GMT -6
I'm in SW MI, I'm currently looking for a 150cc with Mint body. A scuff here or there may be okay, but no cracks in the panels. I do not care about the engine condition as long as it's present...Non-running preferred (to save on cost).... I want a moped with at least 12" wheels, no turtles. Something like a hunter phantom style would be best. It must have the title. I also do not care if it has electrical issues... Good body w clean title. I can travel within reason. I am willing to pay $200~400.00 depending upon what it is. If someone comes across this deal, please send me a PM. If you find me deal I'm looking for and I can negotiate to anything under $275.00, I will give a $25.00 finder fee. I can give references from within the community, my word is solid. If I say I will do something, I will do it. This is a legit finders fee if the deal is successful. thanks. This is the style of scoot I'm looking for:
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Post by dmartin95 on May 22, 2015 13:10:35 GMT -6
Hello. Got my scooter from power ride outlet. That scooter is sharp! How comfortable is the ride on one those?
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Post by dmartin95 on May 22, 2015 12:07:41 GMT -6
Thanks! So the one in the middle is for the Evap? And what about the broken piece on the right? Thanks. I'm not sure Cyborg called it correctly on this one... Your valve cover vent goes to the one next to the one that's broke off... The broken one I believe is just an air vent. Your other one ties into your vacuum lines. I can double check, I have a few of these out in the shop.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 19, 2015 11:09:11 GMT -6
I didn't see cases when I went to taidas site,,, I'll look again,,, I want very good quality and don't want to do a nutty build on a Chinese case,,, they are not up to the task GY6-KS-L (long case) GY6-KS-S (Short case)
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Post by dmartin95 on May 19, 2015 11:02:20 GMT -6
Just to chime in here. dmartin, you have done a great job both in your build and sharing your information. Even us old farts learn a thing or two. Keep it up Jim Thank you! I referenced your build you published as if it were a Chilton! Don't know if everyone else has seen it or not, but RapidJim also published a build ( right here's the link)..... It was my inspiration to actually build one of these motors... Without the thread you created, I may have been too hesitant because the lack of information out there.... So a big thanks goes out to you and all the guys like you who take the time to help other people!
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Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 23:37:00 GMT -6
I haven't cruised their whole site yet,,,I don't know if I would want to do a BB build on Chinese cases,,,I'll have to research it,,,you will be the first to know when I'm ready as I will source parts only from you,,, now I need to find a victim,,eeeerrr I mean bike I can work on with a decent chassis,,,probably be a sym or kymco ,,I'll see what presents itself,,,,oh and just by looking at what's entailed with this kind of build,,,I would think I'd be lucky to pull it off for a grand,,and knowing me it will take more than that to get it done It may be a Chinese case, but don't forget, Honda was the one that designed this engine and it has been in production for over 30 something years... I kind of liken the GY6 to a 350 Chevy when it comes to parts to availability... What I mean by that is they're a dime a dozen and the parts are every where.... I know what it is you like about Kymco, I'm a big fan a Taiwan products too. Taida products are all Taiwan products... When I gave the Lambo/Camaro analogy, it even holds true on pricing. A Taida engine will set ya back some, sure, but if ya want the best, you have to pay for the best... Some of the great things about Taida, everything is top notch, Taiwan B-blocks with oil port in the r crankcase, all BBK's have option like ceramic coating, forging / high compression, strokers are balanced with their corresponding BBK's, TPI bearings, NJK seals, everything is top of the line Taiwan products... In my 232cc, nothing was made in China, not even my block. (Taida has their own blocks) ... You can not get more Taiwan than Taida. When the parts arrive, you can just tell how much higher the quality is... While they're not polished, they're nice and shiny and every part is engraved with the Taida and Taiwan lettering... The blocks come bare ... No bearings, bushings or seals... This is awesome if ya want to powder coat the engine..... ------------------------------ Another nice Taiwan Kit is 180cc Power kit the PFS sells... You need a donor motor but it's right around $450 and you can catch it on sale for cheaper... It's a decent kit...
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Likes ??
by: dmartin95 - May 17, 2015 21:42:49 GMT -6
JR likes this
Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 21:42:49 GMT -6
It's the thumbs up button next to the quotes button (or it might be the edit button if your making the post)...
People may use the likes button differently, but I use it for post that I find helpful or witty and funny, or just a good old fashion thumbs up to people for doing a good job.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 11:43:31 GMT -6
Yeah, the SMAX kit is sweet... I can convert it to a 180cc without having to cut the case, the big head and more aggressive cam for only $450.00... I was the first American to know about it... I have a working relationship not only with Taida's engineers, but I am also a VIP re-seller... I have access to all of Taida's products before they hit the general public.
If you're going to select Taida products for your build, I will get your foot in the door and give an intro to the sales staff... Don't order from the web, either order from me or if you're spending a min of $200, I can hook you up direct with my good friend Fanny Syong who is Taida's top US sales agent. She works at Taida HQ and will send parts direct and modify the parts to fit your build.
I finished uploading all my videos of the build of this 155cc... I'm just an amature at making these videos and haven't learned how to edit all that well ye so they're just hosted as filmed... But I think I got enough useful info here to make sure peolple find something useful...
It's a playlist of 8 videos....
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Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 4:59:16 GMT -6
So this injection system has a lambda and is going into the exhaust ,,,did it come with the pipe or do you have to mod an existing header tube? I have to mod the existing pipe. They include a bung.... I went ahead and ordered additional bungs because I'm going to go ahead and pull off all my exhaust pipes on all my scoots and install a bung on all of them. The Ecotrons stuff I have is two separate kits: ALM (Accurate Lambda Meter) is an air/fuel ratio (lambda) meter which uses Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor and Bosch driver chip CJ125 to accurately measure the exhaust air/fuel ratio (AFR) of variant combustion engines. Small Engine Fuel Injection Kit – 35cc to 300cc Reason I'm isntalling bungs on all my scoots is so I can tune them with the ALM... You can use it to fine tune your scoot then uninstall it, cap off the bung and scoot about your merry way. ------------------------- I should have expanded a little more in my previous post... It's not just about getting her running perfect... Tuning these carbs is probably where I'm least experienced. No scoot mechanic is worthy of the wrench (errr actually, I should say screwdriver) he's using if he can't manage to tune a GY6 carb IMO... So, it's a learning curve for me also....Besides, I can pull a carb, rejet it and have it re-installed in about 5 minutes flat...I'm having fun doing it so I wouldn't call it a waste of time... I've found a few good sources like on totalruckus's GY6 swap section, but you would be surprised at the lack of information about 4 valve builds... Luckily, I have access to Taida's chief technician and that's who I have been going to for help. These forums are good for the noobs who have question like hey, wht type of CDI do I have... But when you're into the kind of builds that I'm doing, these forums aren't very good sources of info.... If I start a thread that says exclaims i'm building a 4 valver and the chain doesn't fit, It's very unlikely the thread will even get a response simply cause no one knows... Taida is like Lamborghini as to where Hoca and NCY types are like a camaro / firebird.... Taida products are what wins at the races and their engineers are helping me. Why would I take that as a shot at me? I know sometimes people get into "pissing matches" on here and I even enjoy reading a good spirited debate, but on my end, I'm not about all that.... My purpose for participating in these forums is to learn and share what I have learned (and to meet new people, make some new friends)... While I have learned a lot, I still have a lot to go and never take good advice as a shot at me or in any other way than appreciative... I want to hear new ideas or if I'm wrong, be corrected... I appreciate your advice brother! We all have busy lives and your taking time out of yours to share what you know... It's appreciated! Yeah, I've got a few torque monsters on the bench right now.... This 155cc I just built was a last minute engine that I decided to build so I could get some experience before going on to my taida engines.... What I have on the bench right now: Another Taiwan Kit like this with the same type of 4 valve head, however the cylinder kit is a 63mm with a stroker of +3mm making for a 190cc. This is a rare a-case with the same style oil cooling as a b-case (oil ports on the crankcase)... I have 2, of the 180cc power kits that Partsforscooters sells (picked them up on sale) - These are 2 - valve B-case motors Then I have 2 Taida engines... Both are liquid and oil cooled, One is is a 191cc (63mm with a +3.5 stroker) and the other is the king of GY6's, it's a Taida 232cc.... 67mm piston with with +8.8mm crank... Both of these engines have custom made pistons to accommodate the stroke and both, are 4 valve... The 232cc will be the ultimate that can be done with a GY6 150cc... Man, this sure got long winded... Sorry for such a long post.... I feel like a wind up toy, you get me started talking and I just don't shut up
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 23:57:37 GMT -6
I have a fuel injection kit for it....
It's in the last minute or so in the video... Not installed yet, obviously..... Reason I'm dfoing it like this is I don't like do too many changes at once....All the little upgrades you see like orange CDI and coil, all were tested individually...
The EFI conversion kits can almost be plug 'n play if you're installing on a stock 157QMJ... But when it's going ona scooter that's been modded, the MAPPING files for the ECU are off... Now, Ecotrons does allow tuning, but I'm still learning all their "code"... Most people have to drive it, send a file to support, drive it, send a file to support, drive it, send a file to support ad'infinity..... I'm learning to do the Maps myself... Anyhow point of that rant is to summarize that I want the engine running perfect before I install the EFI.... Eliminates a lot of troubleshooting variables.
I built this engine to see if I could get a GY6 to perform like my SMAX engine... I'm trying to match spec for spec...
SMAX______________________ Project scoot 155cc_____________________ 155cc 4 Valve ________________________4 valve EFI _____________________ Carb, once tuned will go to EFI.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 21:33:26 GMT -6
This is the point i've been trying to make about these modern thought engines,,especially the ones made in taiwan,,,,you're getting good power and the engine isn't even broke in yet and the carb isn't sorted and the pipe is not optimal,,,this is exactly why the smaxes you have fly for 155cc,,,2 valvers are not even close to a 4 valver no matter where it comes from,,,they are just plain oldie more efficient,, better burn,,,less emissions, better mpg,,,just wait till you get this thing sorted out,,,it's going to fly too,,,good job my man If I ever meet you in person I don't owe you a beer.... I owe you a keg! Ive been doing a little more reading on the differences between 2 and 4 stroke exhaust and think you saved me from melting my new 4 valve head!
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Post by dmartin95 on May 15, 2015 21:29:22 GMT -6
How fast is it supposed to go? I'm 6'2 200lbs and got it to about 32-33mph. At 200Lbs and on a 50cc, you're right about where you're supposed to be..... There's many factors such as wheel size that effect top speed. I flux between 160~170Lbs and in between 30~40mph is what I've experienced on 50's And good job on the fix!
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