Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 24, 2015 6:59:32 GMT -6
on the engine near the fan should have been some wires please post a picture,or tell us the wire colors. John This is the stator that comes on the 161QMK: He needs an AC CDI and a 3 phase Regulator / Rectifier.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 22, 2015 20:55:40 GMT -6
I always thought that these tensioners don't need any adjusting, just install them and forget about them. I think you're correct. They're self adjusting. Check out this video:
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pair system
by: dmartin95 - Apr 22, 2015 19:22:11 GMT -6
Post by dmartin95 on Apr 22, 2015 19:22:11 GMT -6
What is the purpose of the filter?
It's a vent, it does not suck in. Same question with gas tank vent/return line, why add a filter? Only thing I can think of is to keep bugs from crawling in there, and that's a stretch.....
One of my Scooters came brand new with only a 3" hose coming from the vent... No filter, no check valve, just a small rubber hose.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 22, 2015 18:34:55 GMT -6
What information are you looking for?
Here's the basics:
Product # 2638 Engine assembly 161QMK, 170sm3 Enlarge 19900 p. 19500 p.
Engine 161QMK (168,8sm3.) Fits without modification in exchange 152QMI (125cc), 157QMJ (150cc).
Not suitable for installation in return 139QMB / QMA (50-90cc)
The engine is already equipped with factory-assembled cylinder volume 170ss and the cylinder head with larger valves. The engine has a higher dynamic characteristics, making it easy to overtake their classmates. In this engine is recommended to fill in oil viscosity 10W-50. To achieve the full advantage of the engine, we recommend installing a carburetor with a 26mm outlet diffuser. Engine 161QMK: (total volume of Oil 1.2 liters instead of 0.9 liter usually
Bore and Stroke: 61mm x 57,8mm Capacity: 168.8 cm3 Power: 9.8 hp when 7000ob. Torque: 10Nm at about 4500-6000. Compression ratio: 9.2: 1 Reinforced crankshaft Posed as a 12 wheel and 13th with low-profile tires. The maximum speed of the effluent 100-110km / h Wheel 12 to 13 inches (835 or 842 belts long)
If wheel 12 inches, the flange of the wheel should be 146mm:
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 22, 2015 18:31:21 GMT -6
awesome video!!!!!! you are officially my new hero,,,you have the scooter fever bad,,,,good to see Some say when my mom gave birth, I rode out on a Honda spree!!! LOL I've always been a big fan of Mopeds. I like how nimble they are compared to a motorcycle. In addition to being a safety nut, I've always felt the need to bury the throttle.... Yeah, I know, the two don't normally go together, but I believe one can have fun while staying safe. I wish there were a few others on here that liked to race, I really want to build a team... Right now my team consists of me, my wife, nephew and one buddy.....
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 22, 2015 18:25:30 GMT -6
And you know what else? the 12 and (special 18 pole) stator use the same 8 pole flywheel. However, you can NOT use an 6 pole stator with an 8 magnet flywheel.... Nor can you use a 6 magnet flywheel on an 8, 11 , 12 or 18 pole.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 21, 2015 20:15:42 GMT -6
Hey gang, over on "itstheride" forum there's a couple of threads asking what projects people are doing to their scoots,... Well, I have a great deal of scooter projects on my bench right now, so, Instead of taking pictures and typing a book, I made a video showing most of scooters projects....
So come hang out in my shop for 14 minutes... Each project will have a video made, so if you guys/gals want to see a particular project first, let me know and I'll move it up on the list... I personally am looking forward to 232cc Taida race engine... It's going on my Bintelli Havoc and I hope to race in this years twist 'n gone.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 21, 2015 12:16:47 GMT -6
Hey Jerry, I've done a little more research about this Koso Oil Pump.... I'm always on a constant hunt to find things like fuel flow, air cfm, stator output and of course of oil flow/pressure.... These kind of "hard numbers" are very hard to come by... So, when I come across them, I get super stoked... Well, thanks to you, I found some more "hard numbers" for the GY6 125cc/150cc. I went to Koso's website to see what info they had published about this high pressure oil pump and in my searching, I found they published a graph showing oil flow ramping with RPM's, and they had stock output as well... Reason they're so important: Using these numbers as a "baseline" to diagnose is an absolutely valuable resource. Red is KOSO, Blue line is stock GY6 oil pump
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 20, 2015 14:52:17 GMT -6
I hope you get an answer, I'm curious too.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 20, 2015 12:05:37 GMT -6
Ok, so one of us forgot to keep our fingers crossed:) New pickup coil and stator installed and still no spark.. Can you guys help me further explore the wiring and grounding out of the CDI that JR mentioned? I'm obviously not understanding the diagram or how to test the circuits properly. Thank you for your help so far. I'm confident I'll get it figured out sooner than later with your help! Your CDI pins don't look properly seated and look like they may be pushed out of their plug.... Look at the red insulator boot on the pins.... Only your black wire looks like it's seated correctly... These pins push out of the plugs very easy... Try this, un-hook your CDI plug and push on each wire into the plug... Try and listen for a "click"... These pins have locking tabs and if they get unlocked, when you plug into your CDI, it just moves the PIN back into plug, not into the socket and making connection like it should... This has happened to me before... Push the pins back in and if you have a hot glue gun, put a little dab on the top hold it in place I wanted to clarify..... I'm not meaning to "hot glue the plug into the socket". I'm suggesting make sure the pins are seated in plug firmly and all the way, then put a little dab of hot glue back where the red insulator boot is.. It will insulate, the insulator plug and hold it in place....
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 20, 2015 11:26:49 GMT -6
Jerry the more mods the shorter the engine life. Put your thumb on the little boy inside hold him back. I would go with muffler and pod filter maybe play with weights, leave the internals. When its time to open it for rebuild then do the big mods. In the mean time look around at what you might want. Perhaps better tires would change the ride $150-200 over 55mph on the chinese tires, I don't push mine. John IMO, John is right... You should get your miles out of that new scoot before you go messing with the internals... Unless of course money isn't an issue, but playing hard is Going from 57.8mm to 61mm is not going to yield that much of an improvement for the money and time you'll put into it....
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 20, 2015 10:57:44 GMT -6
I just ordered one. Thanks for link!
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 17, 2015 18:54:49 GMT -6
OOoooo i smell a build next winter!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wih a 4 valve head,,,,ouch Yes, 4 valve goes into everything I build. My current build is a Taida 232cc. 67mm piston, +8.8 stroke, 4 valve, DR Pulley HIT clutch and variator with sliders, with ecotrons EFI... I am working direct with Fanny Syong from Taida and Brian Zhang from Ecotrons. I plan to run in this years twist'n gone.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 17, 2015 12:25:30 GMT -6
That's cool. It's nice to know for 100% sure you have a b-case. If you ever get froggy and want to build that motor into a 232cc using Taida products, let me know. I am an official Taida re-seller and stock Taida's entire line-up. 67mm plus an 8.8mm stroker will make that motor scream!
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 15, 2015 1:25:49 GMT -6
I am not liking these AGM batteries. I had a few errands to do today. It being a nice day I decided to do a little sight seeing also. Put about a hundy on the magnum then decided to do my errands. So I stopped at first Place and when I came out to leave the battery was dead. There is an advance auto about a block from where I was, so I took battery in to have it checked. They put it on there little tester and then told me it was dead and needed charged,Duh! Tester showed a voltage of 11.44 volts and 56 cca. Expected charge time 0f 40- 50 min at 40 amp. I didn't have that long to wait, so I just I bought a new battery. I paid the core charge of $10 bucks, brought the old battery home and put in on charger and it goes pop as soon as I plugged it. Now this is the second one of these type of batteries that have done this to me. I am going to check the charging system tomorrow, didn't have time today. The saga continues. Now my 50cc also has one of these batteries in it and it is also not charging. so will have to check it as well. both of these scooters were started once a week or so through the winter months and ridden occasionally. I Rode both of them yesterday for about a half hour each. Now it is hard to believe that both of these batteries would go dead at the same time or the charging system went bad on two different scooters at the same time. has any body else had trouble with agm batteries not charging? I will probably order regular lead acid batteries. all the auto stores carry in the sizes I need is agm's. I also will be adding a spare battery box on the magnum. Pushing this 600 lb three wheel beast sucks, also I don't really want to wait on a jump either. At least the 50 cc has a kick start. I'm done ranting for now. Roy Hi Roy, I'm not sure what brand of battery you're using, but I use AGM motobatt batteries and never had an issue in over year. There are many knock off's, generic and "sealed types" of batteries that people try and pass off as AGM.... Another really good battery is ballistic batteries. Pretty expensive but IMO, they're THE best.
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