Clinician
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Post by snaker on Aug 6, 2019 8:52:29 GMT -6
Also test the main fuse plus any other if applicable.
With a meter check fuse and power at main key switch.
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Jul 26, 2019 10:11:31 GMT -6
What Cyborg said.
The stator and rr have to be matching types or no-go.
These things fall under 3 general types:
1: Single phase, half wave. The weakest and cheapest type. Usually on 50cc up to older 150
2. Single phase, full wave. Stronger and better than half wave. Onnewer 150
3. three phase. Usually on larger machines.
If yours is a 6 pole then chances are good that its a single phase half wave.
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Jun 6, 2019 8:18:12 GMT -6
Your going the wrong way with the needle clip. Raising the clip lowers the needle which reduces fuel.
Also do the regular maintenance on the CVT.
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Jun 5, 2019 10:36:59 GMT -6
Ive been chasing motorcycle racing on TV for decades only to have them do everything they can to foil my efforts. Middle of the night, Prempted, cancelled, switched channels, etc. Bike racing gets a TV priority just below blind Kangaroo bowling. Of course I don't have the channels you list. Very frustrating.
Utube has a nice selection of portions of the racing, check it out also.
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Post by snaker on May 31, 2019 10:15:55 GMT -6
You got it. Any time the cam lobes are off the cam followers the valves are closed and the gap will be there. I would consider your compression test to be a failed attempt, try again. Get a good tester. Some auto part stores will loan a tester out. Good advice by Cyborg. Check your flywheel key. ![]() |
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on May 30, 2019 10:01:34 GMT -6
error. cant add image
4 stroke has 4 cycles, two revolutions of crankshaft, one revolution of camshaft. Camshaft spins half as fast as crankshaft.
2nd cycle, piston goes to TDC on exhaust. At TDC exhaust valve is closed or just closing. Intake valve is starting to open.
4th cycle piston goes to TDC on compression stroke. At TDC both valves are closed.
When a valve is closed the cam is NOT pushing on the valve and you have your gap. The gap you set with cold engine. That gap shrinks as the temps increase to a point where it would disappear just as the temps reach max, or as close to it as possible.
When these engines have a flywheel magneto ignition the ignition originates on the crankshaft but it is only needed to be synchronized with the revs of the camshaft. Every other spark is unneeded and wasted. If your familiar with cars (the older stuff anyways) you are used to a distributor ignition. That ignition originates on the camshaft so all sparks are needed.
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Apr 6, 2019 7:26:12 GMT -6
Don't know anything about that design. The owners manual would normally give instructions for that sort of thing.
Other than that either remove body parts or;
If it has a typical coil over shock can you unbolt one end and lower the final drive for access?
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Jun 16, 2018 18:54:21 GMT -6
That area gets hot because its a combustion engine.
It is a fan cooled engine consisting of a fan and specifically designed shrouding to remove the engine heat properly.
I hope you haven't left that shrouding off.
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Jun 16, 2018 18:40:53 GMT -6
I spent more years than I want to remember in the Power Equipment field and worked with Lots of Belts, Heat is the Enemy of the Belt. You can buy these very accurate Laser temp gauges most everywhere now for under $30. No Guessing if something is genuinely running Hot or Cold.. I do the Anklebiter thing..  
Whats up with the zip tie on the gearbox input ahaft?
I tried to zoom in on it and it appears that the shaft has a extension that would typically set in a CVT cover support bearing. Would that be the case?
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Jun 16, 2018 8:11:24 GMT -6
Couple of points.
My GY6150 has a filter inserted in the CVT cover cooling intake snorkel.
That picks up a lot of dirt and plugs, causing a hotter CVT.
I don't know if all these machines have this filter but you may want to check.
Also if your considering modifying or replacing the CVT cover, first check to see if your rig use's a CVT cover support bearing for the gearbox input shaft.
You have to have at least enough cover to use the four rearmost mounting bolts to support the support bearing.
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Post by snaker on May 26, 2018 14:37:18 GMT -6
Yes, the style would be single or 3 phase; halfwave or fullwave.
The connectors would be what ever the mfg wants to use.
You identified yours as 3 phase. While it is theoretically possible to have a 3 phase/halfwave design, it would be somewhat silly. Chances are pretty good that the 3 phase would be fullwave.
You have to look at your existing RR too see how many wires and where they go.
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on May 26, 2018 14:36:05 GMT -6
test
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Post by snaker on Apr 7, 2018 10:30:00 GMT -6
I found your earlier thread and looked at the photos. It appears that the yel, wht, and pnk are indeed the same as 3 yellows. Hook them up yel to yel , yel to wht, yel to pnk. One yel never goes to 3 yel.
I don't know why your changing the rr, but the stator and the rr have to have matching styles .
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Clinician
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Post by snaker on Apr 7, 2018 10:28:37 GMT -6
test
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