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And what do you consider a short ride? How long should a person ride to enable a full charge.
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Going to all that expense I would think you could find a hone somewhere. Maybe a tool rental shop, or maybe a company like Sears or auto stores. It would not take you long and if you have a good drill you can drive a hone. I have done that myself on a lawn mower engine. I had the kind of hone that had three grinding stones on a spring assembly. You need to compress it and insert it into the cylinder then run the drill to rotate the grinding assembly. A few times down and up will do the job of removing glaze and preparing the cylinder for startup with new rings.

Are there no auto mechanics around where you live. If rural how about a tractor mechanic.

Here is a Sears link. I don't know if it will fit your engine but worth a look. Not too expensive either.

www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00960635000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
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Understand speedracer, I am in effect counter steering. But to me the definitions and such are far too misleading. I prefer to just lean on the right handle bar to turn right.

Imagine my confusion and mistakes if each right turn I had to consider that if wanting to turn right I must first turn the wheel to the left to get the action going to the right. Far too much to think about and put in to motion. So I keep it simple and just push on the handlebar, not worrying about the ever so small a turn to the opposite side the wheel must take to generate a lean. Sometimes I wonder about educated folks that seem to delight in making things impossible to understand. I think the Motorcycle Safety Training folks got it right. Simply press the handlebar on the side you want to turn to.
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Go to your nearby discount store, Wal Mart or whatever, and get a gallon of Preston 50/50 mix. It is friendly to aluminum and can mix with any other coolants as well.
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Yesterday the front wheel, today the rear wheel. Some problems but all in all not too bad.

I used the valve stem video as a guide. Problem there is that the valve stems in the video were the pull in style and mine were with a threaded stem and washers and nuts to install.

First I removed the core from the valve stem. It blew the core across the garage, so on the rear wheel I first let much of the air out and had good control over the core then.

OK, I started by using a 6" C-Clamp above the valve stem to pull the tire away from the one side to the other side. I also used a 5" C-Clamp, should have had two 6" clamps, and pulled below the valve stem. It took a few minutes to do this but finally I could see the inside rubber part with not tire in the way.

I tried to pull the stem up and out as shown in the video but that did not work at all. I took my box knife and cut the stem off just above the rim while pulling up with the vise-grips. Then went below the rim and removed the bottom part.

Then I put the new valve stem in the hole from the top. Went to the tire side and was able to slip the lower rubber gasket on to the threads and push it up to the rim. Followed that with a metal washer that is provided.

Now for the tricky part. Getting two fingers, holding a nut, between the tire and the threaded shaft of the valve stem, and while doing that, getting the nut to engage and spin up the threads. It took me many tries but eventually done. I tightened the nut against the washer till I considered it tight enough.

Now for the second tricky part. Same as above, but with another nut that becomes the jam nut for the installation. Again many tries, but finally it engaged and spun up against the first nut.

Held the first nut with a thin 1/2" open wrench and used a 1/2" box wrench to tighten the second nut against the first nut.

Then a lot of frustrating effort began. I removed the clamps, took my rubber mallet and started hammering the tire to get it to go back into place. Rubber head flew off so I switched to a 48 oz steel hammer. Did pretty well on the front tire. On the back wheel the tire did not want to return to position. Enough air leaked that I could not use air pressure to force it either. Finally made up some soapy water and squirted it along the exposed rim by the tire. Again had air running and started hammering the tire with my hammer, finally a pop and the tire was again seated.

Time will tell if all this was worth it or not. I will just have to keep checking the pressure to see if, and how badly, the tire may be leaking.

At least now I have the valve stems faced away from the brake discs. Easy to get the air hose on or the pressure gauges.
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With out re reading the entire thead I was wondering if anyone made a comment like I am about to do.

When buying new bolts for the scoot I would suggest going up a bit of grade and get aircraft or auto grade. Just buying the cheap old discount bolts might get you some greater griefs. Check on the head and there are patterns that describe the quality. Most hardware dealers can tell you about those marks and what they mean. You don't want stripped threads or twisted off bolts that can happen with low grade bolts.
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