Clinician
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Post by technoglide on May 13, 2011 0:02:32 GMT -6
Hi all, Though it usually means trouble, it's nice to be back here again. My year-long rehabbing of this machine is nearing its end. Time to pay serious attention to the "looks", which usually determines the end price of a machine, IMHO. Sadly, there are many scratches, etc. I don't think the scoot has been laid down, just scratched-up badly by a previous uncaring owner. The problem at hand is a ~3in. crack in the trunk. I have taken Pics with the crack propped open and back-lit. I also have the same shot, but in its natural state, not torqued open. Here's the photobucket URL. s1035.photobucket.com/albums/a438/technoglide/Roketa%20MC-54-250B/Crack%20in%20the%20Trunk/I have used several different glues on other items in the last couple years, with mixed results. The best adhering was Gorilla "White" glue. It's tough and flexible, but leaves a large residue on both sides. They look like keloid scars (the big, raised, 3/8" wide scars.) I need to have this joint be nearly invisible, if possible. Also strong enough to keep from reopening. How to fix it strong and beautiful? Any suggestions materials/techniques, etc will be appreciated. Thanks to all my friends here! Andy (technoglide)
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Clinician
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Post by insanetexan on May 13, 2011 5:55:49 GMT -6
You could always try plastic welding. I seen on a different forum about somebody that has done this and with a little research it is very possible. I know harbor freight sells 2 different plastic welders. I tried it with a little butane soldering iron from a local auto parts store and it held for a little while. But after further research I didn't do it correctly.
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Clinician
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Post by cptk on May 14, 2011 1:17:13 GMT -6
Hey Techno, I have a crack right in the middle of the top on mine I think from too many groceries on a trip to the store...Well it may sound kinda junkyardish, redneckish if you will....But I the same tried many glues before I just bought a roll of Blue Duct Tape from Wal-Mart....Cut and trimmed nice like It really does not look too bad...For what it is worth.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by bobf on May 14, 2011 8:09:06 GMT -6
Redneckish? I have a suggestion too. Rather than try to weld the joint why not span it on the inside with some nice strong, flexible, plastic material. Something tough like a flat side from the milk bottle. Externally, tape the split into place. Cut plastic piece to size, smear it with JB Weld, gives lots of time to work with the material. Duct tape might be good for holding it in place too. Block with towels and whatever. Leave it alone for at least one overnight, 24 hours would be even better. Another thing is that maybe the inside of the box and on the plastic insert part, it would be good to sand paper a bit to give the JB Weld something to grab on to. .
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on May 14, 2011 9:22:10 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by deeno650 on May 14, 2011 15:18:31 GMT -6
Hahaha. I can really symphasize w/you. I have bought 2 of the damn things. I have had them crack and break and so, I'm gonna try some other kind. The last time...I ordered one from Roketa and got one that was too small not the same one that came with the scoot...and it cost me $19 buck to send it back. So...enough of that. I'm gonna try something else. I did like the trunk until it broke. Good luck
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Scooter Doc
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Post by 89newbie on May 18, 2011 22:03:47 GMT -6
Plastic weld is easy once you get the hang. Here is how I do mine. Analyze the thickness of the plastic and get doner plastic that is a match in color and thickness. Here is the diff. I use that no else has mentioned, but I learned it during plastic work in plastcs handling acids. Since this takes special tools here is how you can adapt, dont laugh it works. Propane torch, flat blade screwdriver. Heat screwdriver just like you are tempering metal, orange or red glow, carefully V the crack. Same method for the filler, melt filler, as you do that heat screwdriver put filler on top side of heated screwdriver and use heated bottom of screwdriver remelt the V and work the two plastics togethor slowly, working the two melts togethor so they bond. Dont worry about appearance you can work that later once entire crack is plastic welded. Biggest thing to remember both sides (cracked piece and filler) have to be melted and soft or it will be a cold joint that will recrack. If you have a light touch you can use a soldering gun. I prefer my way because I can judge my temp by the color of the heated blade.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by mcalli on May 20, 2011 11:44:50 GMT -6
I don't know much about these things so this may be way off. But what about just using a fiberglass filler? Then sand it smooth and paint it.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by 89newbie on May 22, 2011 6:00:31 GMT -6
I don't know much about these things so this may be way off. But what about just using a fiberglass filler? Then sand it smooth and paint it. That is a good idea if it will bond to the plastic, and if the trunk is stable enough th not flex and allow it to come loose. He cold try the stuff to fix flex bumpers also. I didnt see the pics when I made my post, thats not a crack thats a huge gash! I try to save and use whatever I can, its the old age thing, I actually have a fifties Harley trunk Ive put off using because it has strange locks.(big enough to store all your groceries in). rofl.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on May 22, 2011 10:02:43 GMT -6
go with the bestem box I have had heavy items in them . I have caRRIED HEAVY FAN MOTORS and other heavy air conditioning and heating parts . tools etc...
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