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Post by technoglide on Jun 10, 2011 23:24:00 GMT -6
Afterthought: If any mounting holes are operable, here's a quick fix so that you can use the airbox while trouble shooting.and working on the carb. My airbox had a rub-hole in it. I squeezed 3M weather-stripping adhesive into the hole, just enough to close it. I let it cure overnight, then filled-in the contour and shaped it with a bandage of wax paper, which I trimmed and left-on for the duration. After I was ready, I ordered the part. ($$$ are tight here!)
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Post by technoglide on Jun 10, 2011 23:13:22 GMT -6
What a great deal! I envy your good fortune...
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Post by technoglide on Jun 9, 2011 17:37:01 GMT -6
Cool! Looks like fun. Can I ask what you paid for it?
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Post by technoglide on Jun 9, 2011 10:10:36 GMT -6
Thanks! lemme check that out and I'll post the findings. Preshadit!
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Post by technoglide on Jun 8, 2011 21:45:25 GMT -6
Whew! Glad I asked about those "grease nipples". The rotor appears OK. I can live with the on-off-on-off at the end of a controlled stop for a few days. What I'm really curious about is: what makes a brake lever lose it's play and require more squeeze force to effect the same stop? Do these brakes use a slave cylinder type of action? The brake fluid appears the same in each window.
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Post by technoglide on Jun 7, 2011 22:41:12 GMT -6
Howdy Pardners,
Another curious effect here at Atlanta's "Area 52". I have refurbed this scoot. if interested in all other stuff, search "technoglide'. Otherwise, here's the matter at hand, recently surfaced upon extensive riding:
Both brakes worked well with even pull and even stopping force. After ~70 miles varied driving, the rear brake became hard to squeeze and had less "stopping power". Also, at the end of the stop, I can feel what seems like what a crude and/or broken ABS system might feel like it. stop-go-stop-go-stop-go-stop, etc. Front brake seems fine.
I also notice there are grease nipples on the brake assemblies. I assume they need some lube and PM from time to time. Whaddya guys think?
Andy
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Post by technoglide on Jun 2, 2011 22:44:34 GMT -6
Well, the Dynabead option sounds by far the easiest and least expensive option. Plus, I ca-+9n do it myself. I like to DIY anything that's within the reasonable scope of a novice's ability. Many thanks to all! Stay tuned for another exciting post about my rear brake problem!
Thanks Again Y'all! You dudes ROCK!
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Post by technoglide on Jun 2, 2011 13:23:02 GMT -6
Hi Friends,
Though it almost always means trouble, it's good to be with you again. After a solid year working out various probs, my 250B is on the road again. Oh happy day! Nice and sunny, 95 screamin' degrees here in the ATL. Will summer be hotter than May? It boggles the mind...
Anyhoo, this exposed several issues, which I will post one by one. Before I get to the brakes, check this out. A very experienced rider who is also a good friend, AND car mechanic tells me that I MUST get my tires balanced, or I'll wreck. I didn't realize it was that bad, my only reference being my high-wheel Kymco people 150. Believe it or not, I've hardly ever ridden any other low-wheel scoot before. It didn't seem that bad to me, but it sounds crucial, and I can take advice.
My first question is: Do we have any archived material on this process? I can't find any. (the 3-letter search minimum is sometimes very confining.) If not, does anyone know if it can be done with the wheels still on the scoot? Any ideas on cost? I live on a (small) fixed income.
It seemed like a good idea to explore this question before going on to my next issue, since this could seriously affect or cause my next problem,which is with the rear brake. Please let me know about the balance thing, then I'll post the details on the brakes.
As always, many thanks!
Andy (technoglide)
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Post by technoglide on May 13, 2011 0:02:32 GMT -6
Hi all, Though it usually means trouble, it's nice to be back here again. My year-long rehabbing of this machine is nearing its end. Time to pay serious attention to the "looks", which usually determines the end price of a machine, IMHO. Sadly, there are many scratches, etc. I don't think the scoot has been laid down, just scratched-up badly by a previous uncaring owner. The problem at hand is a ~3in. crack in the trunk. I have taken Pics with the crack propped open and back-lit. I also have the same shot, but in its natural state, not torqued open. Here's the photobucket URL. s1035.photobucket.com/albums/a438/technoglide/Roketa%20MC-54-250B/Crack%20in%20the%20Trunk/I have used several different glues on other items in the last couple years, with mixed results. The best adhering was Gorilla "White" glue. It's tough and flexible, but leaves a large residue on both sides. They look like keloid scars (the big, raised, 3/8" wide scars.) I need to have this joint be nearly invisible, if possible. Also strong enough to keep from reopening. How to fix it strong and beautiful? Any suggestions materials/techniques, etc will be appreciated. Thanks to all my friends here! Andy (technoglide) |
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Post by technoglide on Apr 19, 2011 6:18:02 GMT -6
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Post by technoglide on Apr 16, 2011 22:45:54 GMT -6
Thanks, Ally
You are almost always my "first responder". "Preshadit" as we say in GA! All 4 Stoppers in place, only no tension on the ones that service the rear catch, on either end of the cable. There is a stainless screw-and-tube fitting outside the cable. It is located on the rear cable, halfway back. I thought it had something to do with tension, but it appears that it's just a, opening to thread a broken cable thru. I guess the entire length would be to difficult to push a new cable through?
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Post by technoglide on Apr 16, 2011 15:54:43 GMT -6
Hi Friends,
Regret no pics at moment, will supply if necessary. (Rear/top plastics buttoned-up for test ride. Will need to open eventually, anyway.)
Anyway, front seat lock works, but doesn't pull back lock open. Rear cable completely limp. have temporarily removed catch spring and left rear catch open for now. What to do?
Ideas?
Thanks, t-glide
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Post by technoglide on Apr 7, 2011 22:40:29 GMT -6
Thanks, guys.
I ordered the wire clamps from Kencraft store on Sunday night 11pm. I received them via ups ground for only $3.25 shipping, Get this, Tuesday 2PM! Fastest service i VE EVER SEEN ANYWHERE! I used the loosened airbox bolts trick also. All is well. Engine is reassembled, we cranked but only coughed. Put a new sparkplug in and it now starts with 1 short pop, everytime! I put the mid-section plastics on, no prob. Now for the true test: Reaer plastics! I couldn't hardly cget them off. I can't imagine the nightmare putting them back on.
Thanks to All for your help!
Andy
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Post by technoglide on Apr 3, 2011 14:31:57 GMT -6
I have a MC-54-250B with a Linhai engine with the original (don't know which, sorry) carb. The lip of the carb air intake has a short length ~1 cm, I think. My air box "hose" works loose even with a tight hose clamp. I have some Permatex high temp (red) gasket sealer. Would this help? Or does anyone have another solution? I'd hate to have it work loose on the road.
Thanks, Andy (technoglide)
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Post by technoglide on Apr 3, 2011 14:14:08 GMT -6
I have sold a lot of stuff on eBay and craiglist, etc. It killed me when people didn't show. Your situation is so common that I rarely wait for people unless I'm planning to be home for a long time. It used to tick me off big-time. A friend who sells car, motorcycle an PC stuff told me to quit waiting. Arrive at a reasonable time when you'll both be around. If not, Tell them when you'll be around and when you will leave. Let them know that if they don't come then, they'll need to reschedule at your convenience. Also never tell them that you'll hold it for them unless they put down a non-refundable $100 deposit, Cash. This all sounds rude and counterproductive. But it cuts the tire kickers out of the picture. Serious prospects will want the scoot enough to be there. This saves your temper lots of wear and tear. It's worth it. Good Luck! Andy (technoglide).
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