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Post by insanetexan on Jul 2, 2011 16:56:15 GMT -6
Well today I took a 50 mile round trip with no ill effects from the new headlight bulbs. So I think it is safe to say that the 60w/55w H4 halogen bulbs are safe to use. If there was gonna be any type of meltdown on the lenses it should have already happened.
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Post by insanetexan on Jul 2, 2011 7:38:45 GMT -6
You can purchase those fuses at any local auto parts store.
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Post by insanetexan on Jul 1, 2011 12:55:28 GMT -6
Yes Speed if the lenses start to have a melt down I will post it, but so far so good.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 29, 2011 17:06:14 GMT -6
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 29, 2011 5:46:05 GMT -6
Actualy I posted the wrong ad from ebay. The bulbs I ordered and installed were 60w/50w Halogen bulbs.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 28, 2011 14:09:43 GMT -6
Speed; Yes I am from Texas hence the name lol and yes it gets very hot here. Most times between 90 and 100 so far but we have yet to hit our hottest month at that point it isn't hard for us to hit the triple digits. There is also alot of humidity here being I am right on the coast in Corpus Christi. So between the heat and humidity it tends get to be some real good scourcers.
On to the question at hand so far I haven't had any problems with heat buildup in the headlights. As I mentioned in an earlier post I did not try to put the rubber boot back on the back of the headlight socket, that way most of the heat can exhaust out the back of the headlight fixture. So far I have only gone about 45 miles but I will be taking a travel across town which about a 20 minute ride one way with lots of stop lights along the way so I will see and report back to let you know about how the lights do with the heat after that.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 27, 2011 19:16:45 GMT -6
Speed; The sockets have to be wired in. When the BA 20D sockets are removed from the headlight fixture the H4 bulb will sit right back in the same place. I didn't think to take any pics of the light install.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 27, 2011 16:45:29 GMT -6
Yes Speed I changed the sockets or should I say I added the H4 sockets and left the BA 20D sockets in as well. The sockets cost 11.99 for the pair at auto zone. The H4 sockets from what I hear are the same ones you need if you want to add HID lights as well. So if I decide to go HID then I already have the sockets installed.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 27, 2011 14:44:37 GMT -6
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 27, 2011 11:29:12 GMT -6
No I haven't had any problems with the heat so far. No melting problems either but I did leave the rubber boot off the back of the housing so the heat wouldn't build up and no problems with moisture either. Has rained past couple days and I rode it in the rain and the moisture didnt get into the bulbs.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 27, 2011 11:09:55 GMT -6
After hearing of several people talking about charging problems on their 54B model scooters I decided to check my system with the multimeter. My findings are as follows;
Idling @ about 1800rpms I have 13.36 volts Running at 4000 or more rpms I have 14.90 volts
Those are both reading at the battery connections.
A few improvements I have made or changed was my turn signal 1156 and brake lights to 1157 LEDs and all my instrument lights to 194 LED, and the turn signal indicators and fan and high beam indicators to 74 LEDs. My headlights I changed out the 35w/35w Bulbs for 60w/55w Halogen bulbs. I also added 2 12 volt power plugs that I connected to the ignition switch so they will only work with the scooter running. I have also changed out my instrument cluster with a new one and seems to be better. For some reason my old gauges was showing different readings than these new ones. For instance my fuel gauge was reading empty after only 80 or so miles, my temp gauge was flowing up to the halfway mark before the fan would kick on. Now with the new ones my fuel gauge jumped to half a tank of gas when I did the change over and now my fan kicks on when my temp gauge hits the quarter mark on the gauge.
Not sure if the RPMs are correct tho. @ 4000rpms my speed shows to be around 50mph and at 5000rpms I show to be doing 70mph. I did take it out on the Interstate a little while ago and at the 5000rpms (70mph) I was actually passing up other vehicles LOL and still had some left on the throttle. I will check these speeds later with the GPS and report back with my findings.
I also a while back changed out my variator to a Dr. Pulley Variator with 13 gram sliders.
Other planned changes for later will be to change the clutch to a high performance clutch and also changing out the gears for taller ones to get more top end speed.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 17, 2011 14:51:07 GMT -6
Not sure if I missed it in this post but, do your brake lights work? The brake lights from what I understand need to work before the 54B will start.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 12, 2011 16:56:20 GMT -6
That is a drain line for the Carb. It should run down to the side of the CVT case and attach to it.
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Post by insanetexan on May 13, 2011 5:55:49 GMT -6
You could always try plastic welding. I seen on a different forum about somebody that has done this and with a little research it is very possible. I know harbor freight sells 2 different plastic welders. I tried it with a little butane soldering iron from a local auto parts store and it held for a little while. But after further research I didn't do it correctly.
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 19, 2011 20:00:53 GMT -6
Speedracer; Yeah there's some rust on it. I don't have a garage and this one was a previous owner. It has 3590 miles on it. I did change the variator to a Dr. Pulley with 13 gram sliders. Here in South Texas it doesn't take long for rust to settle in on unprotected parts. Lots of salt water in the air beings I am right on the Gulf Coast.
alley; I agree it does need some cleaning. I thought I had pulled all the grass and things out of it before the pics. LMAO
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