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Post by Cruiser on Sept 24, 2010 11:02:46 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, Brandon. It does look like an upgrade to the rear shock will be needed to keep that rear wheel on the road. If you can make do with a high performance single shock like Bashan suggested, I think it will simplify the installation greatly. Anxious to see the completed scoot. Here's a site that has some performance shocks: www.scooterpartsmania.com/frame-bodywork-shock-absorber-c-41_71.html?page=1&sort=20a |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 23, 2010 17:02:05 GMT -6
Good deal. Not all alarms require the jumper when removing them.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 23, 2010 14:40:17 GMT -6
Looked at the 250cc circuit diagrams that we have in our database. It looks like you should be able to disconnect the alarm system and regain full function of the scoot by jumping two pins. Our diagrams show an 8 pin connector. If you jump pins 6 and 7 (black/white and grey/white wires) together, everything should work OK without the alarm system. The one thing to remember is that all scoots do not follow the same wire color convention so the wires at pins 6 and 7 may not be the same colors as noted. I am also assuming that the pin outs for the alarms are the same across different makes of scoots.
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Valve Stems
by: Cruiser - Sept 23, 2010 11:19:52 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Sept 23, 2010 11:19:52 GMT -6
I find that they are just the right length. Any longer might cause clearance problems with the other components of the scoot. The 90 degree angle allows a straight shot when checking pressure and adding air.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 22, 2010 23:31:54 GMT -6
I bought my two China scoots from different vendors who I found out after the purchase had many unhappy customers. Both the companies disappeared shortly after I bought my scoots. Neither one of my scoots had any defective parts or operational problems, but I did the PDI. Both have over 1000 miles and are running good. I did have shipping damage on one which was resolved satisfactorily. This is probably the most common problem with drop ship scoots and can be resolved when the scoot is inspected before the delivery driver leaves. If a quick call to the vendor does not give satisfactory results, do not sign for the scoot and have the driver take it back.
Most problems are usually simple and the scoot owners' willingness to get involved and learn about their scoots will make scoot ownership a lot of fun. Becoming a member of the forum is one of the best things you can do to ensure happy scootin'.
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Valve Stems
by: Cruiser - Sept 22, 2010 23:09:56 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Sept 22, 2010 23:09:56 GMT -6
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Valve Stems
by: Cruiser - Sept 22, 2010 19:30:43 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Sept 22, 2010 19:30:43 GMT -6
They can be oriented anyway you want. Make sure you get the .453" valve stems.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 22, 2010 19:23:45 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 18, 2010 18:42:41 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 17, 2010 22:44:09 GMT -6
Your welcome. If you plan to go to a Harbor Freight store, print out the link for the torque wrench and bring it with you and they will match the price if it isn't already on sale in the store.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 17, 2010 19:02:36 GMT -6
I agree with Rich about the 100 ft-lb torque wrench (3/8" drive). However, this one will also cover all automotive uses as well at a great price: www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-239.htmlTorque wrenches are important for engine work and when working with the variator and clutch. The Chinese aluminum is easily stripped and you don't want to lose a variator nut when cruising down the road. I own a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive torque wrench. They are very easy to use - much easier than the one's with the scale. Just set the wrench for the desired torque setting and listen for the click when tightening. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 17, 2010 11:25:05 GMT -6
...just wondering if I can use a H4 type headlight bulb in the 54B or will it require hard-wiring of H4 sockets? Although the headlight housing uses H4 style bulb holders, the OEM bulbs are push and twist style bases. This means you would have to hard wire the true H4 bulb to use it in this case but it would fit the headlight housing which is made for the H4 style base. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 14, 2010 15:04:11 GMT -6
ok so U prefer a GL-4 better then a GL-5? But ur saying that synthetic GL-5 would be better then regular GL-5? What weight and brand do u use the most that u prefer? Like I mentioned in my post, the GL-5 oil should be OK in our scoots as there are no synchros. GL-5 is generally the grade of the synthetic oils like Mobil 1 (75W-90) which I use. If using a non-synthetic, I prefer using the GL-4 (any brand name). |
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motor CAPUT
by: Cruiser - Sept 14, 2010 14:56:25 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Sept 14, 2010 14:56:25 GMT -6
That sounds good, Todd. I hope they come through and the repair turns out good. Good luck.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 13, 2010 23:47:54 GMT -6
GL-3 has been superseded by GL-4 which is an upgrade and is backwards compatible for GL-3 applications. GL-5 is not an upgrade to GL-4 and is designed for specific applications. The main issue with GL-5 use in some transmissions is that it is not compatible with the syncros. It should be OK in the transmission on our scoots since no syncros are involved. The synthetic GL-5 is closer to an upgrade to the GL-4 than the non-synthetic GL-5. I feel more comfortable using a GL-4 oil in my scoot since it will do all that the GL-3 oil requires and more.
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