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Hi again, tk. I decided to check out your CVT video. I didn't see much clutch action. It looks like the clutch portion is binding or is frozen. Compare it to this video and pay attention to the way the clutch works:



The only other explanation that I can think of is that your CVT belt is stretching when you rev the engine. This is pretty unlikely. If the clutch is binding, it would also make belt replacement difficult. Most people can compress the clutch by squeezing with two hands. Some clutches are stiffer than others and that's why I use the screwdriver method. The tip of the screwdriver always remains in the very bottom of the clutch pulley halves. The belt never gets down that low. Check to see if the clutch works like in the video. If not, then the clutch assembly has to be removed to see why it doesn't slide back and forth on the shaft. Might be some rust in their or just a lack of grease. Very little grease is required. If you do decide to work on the clutch, please look at the tutorials on this forum first. There is a powerful spring in the assembly which could cause parts to fly unexpectedly if you remove the large flat nut.

Hi scootaway,

I might be the only one to be able to give you all those readings without pulling fuses. I have both my headlights (35W HID) switched independently. I have no headlight switch so I use the hi/lo beam switch for on and off. I can tell you that 13.9 volts is what I get at 5000 rpm with one headlight and the fan running. Two headlights will slowly discharge the battery. I get about 14.0 volts at idle with no fan or headlight. Goes to about 14.6 volts at 5000 rpm (no lights or fan).

PLEASE NOTE: I forgot to mention that I have an electric fuel pump which is always on.

Super snoopin', Dr. JR. We really didn't establish whether or not there was a weak stator involved in all these electrical mysteries. It could be a random batch of weak parts (R/R or stators or both). The solution or solutions may be on an individual basis. I may have a weak stator while Todd may have a weak regulator and Yoster might have both, ad nauseum. I still have to get out in the heat to take some stator output comparisons between one headlight and two headlights running. Right now, there is no charging problem as long as I run one headlight.

Also, Dr. JR, I was able to straighten the radiator nozzle on my eBay radiator/fan combo (thanks again for the link) and I did a bench test on the fan. 4.5 amps @ 12 volts. This is with the fan and radiator mounted together. Probably run under 4 amps installed in a scoot with 13.5 to 14 volts running.

Hi TK,

Assemble the variator without the belt. Torque the nut to 70 foot pounds. You might want to apply some blue locktite first.

Here's how I mount my belt. Get a large standard screwdriver or small pry bar (tire iron) and carefully insert into the open side (left side) of the clutch pulley. While twisting the pry bar I squeeze the right side of the clutch pulley with my right hand. Keep turning and prying as needed to open up the clutch. When this is done, you should have no problem mounting the belt.

The water pump is mechanical. Does the cooling fan work now that the switch is replaced? You said that you had to keep adding coolant. Is it leaking? Is the oil level correct? I'm wondering about the need to add coolant. High oil levels could be coolant leaking in. Also coolant could be blowing out the overflow. Both of these problems would indicate a blown head gasket. Sounds like coolant is not circulating which could just be air bound because of your frequent need to aid coolant. I think your problem might be related to the need to add coolant periodically.

Welcome to Scooter Doc, Dave. I didn't run into that problem with my scoot. Here's a shot of the midsection in the as received condition with the original vacuum fuel pump still installed.