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Post by bob123456789 on May 27, 2016 10:24:23 GMT -6
I have never had much success with the easy outs. Has anyone been successful on a master cylinder of drilling off the top of the screw head. I could then remove the cover and get a vise grip on the screw shaft.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 26, 2016 18:52:50 GMT -6
Has anyone had any luck drilling the screw head off?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 26, 2016 14:55:05 GMT -6
Thanks Cable guy.
I should have given a bit more of the needed info. I have a JCL MP250A which isn't a GY6.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 26, 2016 14:23:46 GMT -6
Cyborg. Tried the penetrating oil thing. I let it soak an hour. Still not able to get it to crack loose. I am only able to put the oil on the top and the threads are down a ways. I am guessing that the oil isn't getting all the way down to the threads. Any other suggestions to help fix it? Also, any recommendations for where to look to find the correct one at a reasonable price? Roketa wants $90 here: www.roketa.com/product/parts_detail.jsp?partId=31021&partName=STEERING ASSEMBLY(5) |
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Post by bob123456789 on May 26, 2016 11:06:38 GMT -6
In scooters should we be using motorcycle oil or regular car oil since there are no clutch packs in the engine?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 25, 2016 6:04:46 GMT -6
On the front master cylinder I was able to use the hammer screw tool Alley suggested to remove one of the two screws. I still can't get the second one. Any suggestions on how to get it to crack?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 23, 2016 19:10:14 GMT -6
Thanks Cyborg.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 23, 2016 12:17:50 GMT -6
Anyone know the correct torque to tighten the nut on the clutch to?
I have some removable Loctite I am planning on using. Is that what I should be doing?
I have both a torque wrench and an electric impact wrench to use.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 16, 2016 9:11:51 GMT -6
Alley.
Hopefully you had a nice sunny day and some time to take that nice trike of yours for a ride yesterday.
I have a mechanics stethoscope and listened to the CVT cover. The noise was coming from the back half of the cover. I pulled the cover and found that the nut holding the clutch on was loose. I'm glad I caught that quickly! I am off to buy a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. What torque should it be set to? I am also going to buy some removable Loctite to use on the nut when I put it back together.
I sanded the clutch pads lightly with 400 wet/dry paper since I have it apart and didn't do that last time. There don't appear to be any unusual marks on the clutch pads or the bell where they grab.
Is there anything else I should be doing to fix this?
I have put adjusting the A/F mixture on hold until I get the CVT back together.
Is there any point in me videoing the CVT while it is apart or have we got the issue identified?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 15, 2016 17:24:52 GMT -6
Here is an update. After removing the cap from the a/f screw I can get to the screw with a ratcheting screwdriver. I have gone a fair ways clockwise and it hasn't made any difference. I am working my way back counterclockwise. I still haven't hit a point that when I turn the screw it impact the idle speed. I have had to modify your steps Alley. I am changing the A/F screw when the engine isn't running. So after a change I let is warm up again for 3-4 minutes before checking the idle. This slows the process down, but my hands are glad they aren't up there when it is running. The front brake. Using a hammer screwdriver I was able to remove one of the screws. I still need to figure out how to get the other out. Alley can you take a listen to a video of the CVT so you can tell me if a noise is normal or not. I am hearing that noise and hope the CVT is functioning properly and not impacting me trying to change the idle using the A/F screw on the carb. View My Video |
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Post by bob123456789 on May 15, 2016 11:40:35 GMT -6
I just pulled the front caliper. I used a couple of boards and a C clamp to compress the pistons using the brake pads. Even with the pistons pushed back there is no brake fluid showing up in the window on the master cylinder.
My first guess is that everything may work, it just needs fluid. The problem is that I had previously tried to add fluid. When I tried to unscrew the Phillips screws holding the cover on the didn't budge and stripped a bit.
How do I open the master cylinder so I can add fluid without damaging anything?
This leaves an obvious question which is where did the fluid go?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 15, 2016 9:10:41 GMT -6
On the 4T sheet I have the second carb with the long black enricher on top. I have attached your pic again. Your pic shows where the A/F adjustment screw is. I am attaching a pic of the bottom of my carb. Is the rust colored cylinder related to the A/F screw? The cylinder is right next to the hose clamp from the intake manifold. I am having difficulty identifying the a/f screw on my carb. Not a fun place to get to period. Especially with the engine running to adjust it.   |
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 19:56:06 GMT -6
Ok. Next up adjust the carb following the steps you outlined. Is it easier to get to the A/F screw from the right side or the left?
Then the front brakes as time allows.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 19:36:18 GMT -6
So to fix the performance issues what is your best guess? Should I focus on the carb or the CVT next?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 19:22:00 GMT -6
How do I add you to some pm's I had with John. There are pics of my clutch in them. I tried to "Forward" it to you but it looks like you can't access it.
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