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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 17:49:17 GMT -6
I pulled the clutch and shipped it to John and he verified that all the springs were on.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 17:12:28 GMT -6
It was dying every stop with the idle higher and the rear wheel was spinning. Now with the idle lower it doesn't die sometimes when I stop with the brake. If I set the idle up around 1,800 rpm my rear tire spins and stalls the engine when I stop. The engine is running so poorly <40 mph that I need to get it running good before I start thinking it is the CVT. You mentioned the CVT. There is a bit of history with it. I sent John my clutch, he looked it over and said he thought he springs were good and couldn't say where the extra clutch spring was from. Boy wasn't that refreshing to see, someone who sells thing for a living says "no you don't need to buy anything from me"! And a really nice guy! I still have pictures of the front of the clutch if it helps. I didn't take it apart. Here is the link to where I had an extra clutch spring for some reason: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/12345/extra-after-belt-change-neverIs the fuel ratio screw easiest to get to from the right side or left side? Any advice on the easiest way to get to it? |
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 16:10:00 GMT -6
It roughly idles at about 1,000 rpm. I had to go that low to get the rear wheel to stop spinning. However, the idle isn't stable. It is usually 1,000 rpm but wanders up to 2,000 rpm.
Where can I find your 4t carb tuning guide?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 14:48:50 GMT -6
I have not yet adjusted the carb's air/fuel mixture. Just the idle speed screw. But I do not have my rear wheel spinning when idling on the center stand and it is still stalling when braking.
After it stalls I can restart so you are saying that rules out that a valve adjustment is needed.
It looks like I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture next followed by the idle speed. Mmmm! That A/F screw is in such an accessible place!
I don't know the history of the front brakes. The scoot is new to me. They have been probably sitting for a fair while. I hope you are right that the pistons is just stuck. I'll follow your guidance here.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 14, 2016 10:12:23 GMT -6
Went for a good 50 mile ride this morning.
The good:
The new starter clutch is working well.
The new rear tire is working well.
The bad:
1) It has trouble idling even after adjusting idle due to engine dying when braking during stopping. It still frequently dies when stopping. The dying at every stop seems to be better after I dropped the idle speed to where the rear tire doesn't spin with it warmed up.
It runs very poorly up to 40 MPH. After that it runs fairly well. It really has trouble getting the bike moving from a stop. No power at all 0-10 mph and low power 10-40 mph.
Is this carb related? Where is best to start? I haven't had a carb apart before.
2) No front brakes. The front master cylinder has some fluid in it. I haven 't topped it off since the Phillips screws are partially stripped and I didn't want to damage them more.
Where is the best place to start on the brakes?
With the poor idling the battery doesn't last long when used to restart at every stop. When it finally is idling through every stop this probably won't be an issue.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 10, 2016 10:24:47 GMT -6
Bought some and tried it. I hope it works. It is in its 24 hour cure period now before any fluids can be added.
The good news is that when I drained the oil there was no metal in oil from the starter clutch that I could see. I filtered it to check. Even if I can get it to seal I will change the oil one more time to check for metal.
I can't see an oil filter. The only screen I can find is on the oil plug between the plug and the spring. I don't think it does much good.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 9, 2016 15:16:22 GMT -6
I'll get some and try putting it on the metal.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 9, 2016 14:23:16 GMT -6
So it gets put on both sides of the gasket?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 9, 2016 13:33:12 GMT -6
Use it in addition to the gasket or in place of it?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 9, 2016 12:21:15 GMT -6
Thank you sir.
I haven't heard of RTV before. What is it and how do I use it?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 9, 2016 10:43:36 GMT -6
So I cleaned the gasket faces with a pastic scrapper and gas to ensure all the old pieces were gone. I put everything back together with a new gasket.
My starter is turning the engine over correctly.
Now when I put new oil in the crankcase I am still getting a little bit of oil leaking along the bottom of the cover. Everything is aluminum so I am reluctant tighten things any more.
Any ideas how I can make this seal good?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 1, 2016 20:05:34 GMT -6
Thanks Alley.
I have emailed them to see if they have one for my scoot.
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Post by bob123456789 on May 1, 2016 18:59:47 GMT -6
I'll look for the screen plug.
Have you ever seen a magnetic drain plug for this engine?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 1, 2016 15:55:09 GMT -6
There is no filter.
Is there a magnetic plug that fits this engine?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 1, 2016 12:54:58 GMT -6
Alley.
I am waiting on the parts to arrive.
I have removed the old starter clutch and flywheel. I have cleaned the gasket faces on both the block and the cover good. I have picked out all the metal debris from the starter clutch that I can see. I have used a magnet everywhere I can reach to pick up the metal pieces. I have washed the side of the block and the cover/stator good with gas. After it is back together I plan to change the oil twice to try to remove any metal pieces from the starter clutch.
Is there anything else I can do to ensure that metal pieces from my broken starter clutch doesn't cause damage to the rest of the engine?
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