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Post by blu on Jun 2, 2016 20:05:57 GMT -6
Best part is the side stand safety is still intact. EDIT: Well, not the best part, the best part is keeping both feet on the ground, but I do like the side stand safety. I've taken off on my Harley with the side stand down and ran into some real trouble real quick!
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Post by blu on Jun 2, 2016 19:15:49 GMT -6
Looks like a winner to me.   |
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Post by blu on Jun 2, 2016 16:04:39 GMT -6
Still looking for a solution. Found this old post. Does it sound right to you folks?
After purchasing a service manual, I easily bypassed the brake interlock. Here are the steps:
1) Remove the seat. One bolt.
2) Remove the body center cover. 4 screws accessible from under the seat.
3) Remove the left lower rear cover. 2 screws and 1 phillips bolt.
4) Remover the left side rail. 1 8mm bolt.
5) Remove the left foot peg. 1 12mm bolt. The peg slides out to the side.
6) Remove the left floor mat.
7) Remove the two bolts (10mm, I think) that secure the left floor panel.
8) Lift the left side of the floor panel to reveal the Brake Light/Starter Limit switch.
9) Remove about an eighth inch of insulation from the white/green and green/red wires. There is no need to disconnect anything.
10) Connect these wires together by soldering a short jumper or cross the wired at the stripped locations and solder them together.
11) Replace the panels in the reverse order. This is important because you could be like me and do it many times in the wrong order.
The positive voltage for the starter relay is routed through the brake interlock to the start switch. The ground lead for the relay comes from the side stand and isn't otherwise switched. The negative lead could be grounded by connecting the two wires at the side stand. I have chosen to leave the side stand interlock alone since I believe it is useful.
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Post by blu on May 25, 2016 10:28:50 GMT -6
Mine is a clone, but if I need a part I buy Honda. I've got no problem with having a "clone", it runs great. The only bad thing is I don't have the money to buy a REAL Japanese product! Remember when we thought of Japanese products like we think about Chinese products today? Now "Japanese" is the quality machine, and Chinese is the cheap crap.
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Post by blu on May 24, 2016 20:09:47 GMT -6
I figure I'll change oil about every six months, if that, $22 a year doesn't require wealth.
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Post by blu on May 24, 2016 17:41:27 GMT -6
Rich? No, quite poor actually. I just want my little scooter to last as long as I can get it to, I cant afford to replace it. If I treat it right, I'll die before it does. After riding big bikes all my life, this little 250 scares me, such a little engine pushing my fat @ss around, I'll treat it as good as I can. And here in Florida, heat can be a problem. If I can lower the temp by using synthetic, I'll use synthetic.
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Post by blu on May 24, 2016 13:33:45 GMT -6
Changed my oil to Amsoil Synthetic 10w-40w SCOOTER oil! Over $11 for a quart, but if it prolongs the life of the engine it's worth it. Oil screen had a little crap in it, didn't look like metal, just black crud, not much.
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Post by blu on May 23, 2016 19:01:44 GMT -6
My scooter has 2500 miles. I'm thinking about going synthetic. I've read where it will run much cooler with synthetic, which is always a good thing. Sounds like oil changes should be at the same interval. There is an Amsoil dealer up the road. So I'm thinking 10w-40w Amsoil full synthetic scooter. Is that the best protection I can get?
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Post by blu on May 22, 2016 18:26:25 GMT -6
I was going to ask, but I didn't want to offend anyone!
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Post by blu on May 22, 2016 13:24:20 GMT -6
What a b!tch. Trying to get to that little tiny valve behind the muffler, what a b!tch. I don't know what the pressure was, a lot of air escaped just trying to get a reading. So I put some air in and got a reading of 38lbs. I just let a little out and called it good. I don't hear the scalloping on the road so I guess it was low! It's pretty hard, but that's fine, I'll get more miles out of it. These things are definitely NOT FUN to work on, not even air.
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Post by blu on May 21, 2016 19:01:33 GMT -6
Some Chinese crap, something Shin.
EDIT: Cheng Shin, 120/90/10, puny thing.
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Post by blu on May 21, 2016 18:46:54 GMT -6
About 2500 on the odometer, 2100+ when I bought it. the seller didn't check the box affirming actual mileage, not sure if it was a slip or if he did that intentionally, so I went exempt. To look at it, I can believe that is actual mileage, it's really clean.
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Post by blu on May 21, 2016 18:06:30 GMT -6
Thanks, next I'll start an oil thread! But the reason I ask is my rear tire was almost new when I got it 300 miles ago. Now it's cupping real bad on the sides and I don't figure 1000 miles out of this tire. I'll check pressure tomorrow, but it doesn't look good.
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Post by blu on May 21, 2016 16:57:51 GMT -6
How many mile do you expect to get out of a rear tire?
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Post by blu on May 21, 2016 16:07:20 GMT -6
Well, here's my backrest. It consists of a folded park chair, a Jordache carry bag stuffed with a pillow and a large towel of required bulk. Comfortable as hell. I just lay back with all my weight, I'm well supported and and I'm at a comfortable angle so my back doesn't take a beating. I've had this for a while, but I intended to do something else. Today I looked at the possibility of reversing the mounting brackets on the tourpak. It would work quite well, but decided against it. The pad and frame I was trying to build but had to put on hold because of my back, is still on hold because my back is still a mess. But after riding for a while today and enjoying my pillow so much, I have decided this is it.  |
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