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Post by motley on Nov 25, 2018 23:11:58 GMT -6
Sorry for the late reply, work has been a little crazy lately, But I did do what you said ^ cyborg .
I couldn't seem to find the problem after doing that, I did a full inspection of all of the moving parts, checked for bad wear, still nothing until I finally got mad and went for a long hard run attempting to break something. That was the best option. So the problem is, the rear variator plate that the rollers and sliders push out with enough centrifugal force. That piece will lock onto the shaft for the variator "crank shaft or whatever it's called >.<". It's almost like the hole in the plate got way to small. But it did require slow safe prying all the way around it just to get it off, it was so tight I could crank the motor just by spinning it with my fingers. My only thought is when I was checking for the culprit of the slow speeds/vibrating rhythm on the floorboard, I managed to mix a one 6g/8g roller with my 10g setup causing the variator to not entend perfectly horizontal.
As for the vibration, and low speeds, the lock tight broke loose somehow on the carb for the throttle adjustment. Full throttle was half throttle. So I was operating in a crappy range the entire time which is typically my build up speed area for rpm limiting since I live in the middle of no where "Long trips with no stop signs".
I have parts on the way for a new variator, ordered some sliders as well. The offset of the rollers should of been the culprit for the rear plate locking the way it did right? Thanks for the reply
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Post by motley on Nov 23, 2018 12:26:41 GMT -6
The rollers or whatever is going on has gotten worse. Not sure what it is but now after a quick test at 10k rpms I'll go 30 mph. The vibration pulse has gotten much worse. I'm looking into doing a clutch rebuild, maybe 3K engagement instead of the current 5k, I'd prefer 2k but that's to close to idle rpms.
I'm not sure as to what to look into, but I was considering on taking apart the rear area where gear oil goes and replacing those gears if the rebuilding the cvt area doesn't do the job. Whatever it is it's related to the motor as coasting on the bike is fine "no vibrating pulse"
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Post by motley on Nov 21, 2018 8:49:15 GMT -6
I thought this was variator related and didn't think much about it, until I replaced the variator with a new spare. But whenever I'm going > 5k and start slowing down theres this grung like effect going on. The only way to fix it is to either hold in the brake while giving it gas and wait for the engine to go into the right gearing.
I haven't tested with the cvt cover off yet "Removed the center stand due to a nasty squeak". So testing isn't as easy.
I've noticed a semi loss in power since this has happened. I've done some testing while riding and letting off the throttle and getting back on it "imaginary shifting" the bike starts to pick up the right speeds that it did before hand. So I'm pretty sure this is gearing related.
Not sure if this is tire related or related to my issue, but whenever I'm under throttle theres a vibration going on in the floorboard with a rhythm that never changes. But only when under throttle. It almost reminds me of knobby tires..
So I'll be toping off the gear oil today before work, and test the cvt area tomorrow. If anyone has any suggestions that would be great.
I'm trying to get my car on the road "Get it inspected, and pass my license: so it would be nice to keep the bike ridable until at least then.
Kuddos on any help
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Post by motley on Jul 8, 2018 9:30:18 GMT -6
I can't tell what type of cvt cover you have, But as you can see there is a round plastic cover on the back of this Geely Fashion. The two bolts that hold this toggether is the exact type you need for the Carb. You could temporarily use it for now. * Of course if it's a true geely it will match up.. Once you take the bolt out take the other to a hardware store like you said. Make sure you get the bolts as tight as you can on the carb, or else the carb will practically fall off going down the road... Bad design flaw, but common for these two strokes to cause the problem due to bad vibration. Also it's advised you DO NOT bypass the oil tank reservoir!!
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Post by motley on Jul 5, 2018 21:36:01 GMT -6
100 USD for a Geely is not a rip off, just saying. But the company went out of business just about 10 years ago. So most main parts are hard to find, but the mass majority of parts are universal over the internet. I still have my first scooter which is a 2003 geely fashion 2 stroke. You might get lucky like I did and end up with a chain driven scooter. *I would just drive that thing until it's dead. Mine is still alive, sat in the weather for two years, charged the battery and it started first try oddly.. That's odd yours dies not have the signature Geely motor writing on the back seat? My geely obtained a gas tank leak one day,heard a loud pop like explosion. Check out the gas tank, probably rust filled. Might not be getting correct fuel either. If it's a 2t, expect the bolts for the carb to vibrate out. Even a mechanic shop couldn't fix it. Just a 2t vibrating issue, also getting to the bolts is an arse.. Lastly if it's a 2t with the oil tank Reservoir, add a cap full to the gas tank.. Never trusted it. I was informed to pump the throttle every so often to help pump oil. As well after climbing hills, and during going down hills. Your worst scenario is the oil tank never pumped oil. Causing damage. But that should be it. The control arm wiring sucks on these bikes. Direct solder. Wrongful turn can break the solder joints. I will reply tomorrow much better, it's beyond my bedtime sorry. Nice find
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Post by motley on Jun 25, 2018 6:34:11 GMT -6
Yes, to fully fix my problem I installed 8g rollers. I ordered a cheap set of 10g rollers. As the scooter is a little to much torque in the beginning. Which is fine. But after I hit 6k rpm I oddly lose speed compared to takeoff speeds. Might be slip, or bad GPS readings. I feel the horsepower loss though..
I live in the middle of nowhere where you won't need to stop but every five miles for a stop sign.
So, the heavy rollers should help, yet help limit the rpms. If I can still hit near 7k rpms hopefully I'll be winning on speeds..
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Post by motley on Jun 24, 2018 4:14:12 GMT -6
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Post by motley on Jun 21, 2018 17:06:24 GMT -6
Sorry for the late reply, I had a lot going on during the time of the post and sadly forgot.
Engine model number is: JN1P39QMB
The belt the seller sent with the motor was a 723. Which apparently was the wrong belt, and ensured me there was no way he did that..
He says it's supposed to be a 729..
The bolt count is 9.
I can measure pulley to pulley if you'd like?
*If you are a vendor, there's a few things I would like to look into. Taller rims that are a little on the cheap side that as well tires won't be expensive to get. Future champion battery cover. I also had odd OEM mirrors that had red running lights. If I can get pictures to finally upload I will post those mirrors.
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Post by motley on Jun 20, 2018 9:40:00 GMT -6
cyborg what could cause the pully to not be in line with each other? The clutch sticking out further than the varriator? While I'm fooling with this area, what's the best way to limit the rpms without limiting speeds? I'd go with a gear set, but I can't find anyone with a hydraulic press.
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Post by motley on Jun 19, 2018 17:37:58 GMT -6
Seems to be fixed, but the problem is still partially there. If it's a clear day tomorrow I will drive it hard and just break down somewhere if I do. It does the twist at the top around 6,000 slightly. Then the same on let off but at the bottom.
The belt is practically driving off the varriator a little. Is this bad? I fear the belt stretching.
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Post by motley on Jun 19, 2018 16:50:11 GMT -6
So it appears the problem is still slightly there. The belt favorites the flywheel like pully. The belt I ordered is thinner in width than all of the belts I've used. I made sure to do so do to the spin/twist of the belt.
It's about to stop raining, and I'm going to take it for a short spin.
Isn't there a restrictor washer that might help me? I've heard of it but never seen one. And is it possible to make one for testing? All of the internet pics are different.
I'm going to pop in 8g rollers. That should kill the other pully getting favoritized
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Post by motley on Jun 19, 2018 16:26:48 GMT -6
Yes, the belt is turning. Tested with the rest of the belt's I have. I even tested the original belt parts for scooters sent on the bike. And that's a 724 >.<. I managed to originally put 5,000++ miles on that belt with ease. It's odd the belt tried doing the same thing..
I just put the 729 belt on the bike but as soon as I went to test it, it started raining like a hurricane.
The 729 belt does not seem to sit flush with the outer pully of the clutch. Of course all I did was rotate it. Never started.
One person told me my worst fear would be a bent shaft.
My thought is regardless the the belt sizes. The clutch might not be engaging at the right times for the varriator, causing the belt to snag.
I just hope my problem is fixed.
I'll update when the rain let's up for a bit.
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Post by motley on Jun 18, 2018 19:03:42 GMT -6
czmdiver I'm beyond 100 percent sure I found out the problem. Whenever the variator engages, the more it does my belt starts turning sideways, it'll get so bad it slips and losses power. Thus I don't think it's heat, but that it's the belt trying to completely spin sideways. Eventually eating into the belt, which there's your slip "no teeth". To eventually destroying belts..
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Post by motley on Jun 18, 2018 9:36:48 GMT -6
As for the egr. Might of been pure luck
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Post by motley on Jun 18, 2018 9:32:11 GMT -6
I'm having issues uploading all of the photos I've taken sadly. But I did get a response from parts for scooters. One thing they told me is I'm running the wrong belt.. I told them I took the CVT cover off when I got the motor to be able to take a picture of the belt size for easy documentation.. Also so I wouldn't bother them. Originally it was a 723. There telling me it's a 729 belt. He also said to consider changing the engine oil back over to 10w 40. I've always ran gtx 10w 30 in all of my scooter engines. But I'll take his word for granted. Did a lot of research and ordered this for oil www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KNYMQO/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1Bbk is definitely broke in, and I personally trust Lucas oil. Yeah the scooter body it's hit's a decade old in may. Anything major has been swapped out. He ensured to me if the oil pump was bad I would of found out the hard way the first 10 miles, plus the constant running during break in. I found some super cheap 5 dollar belt to go along with this that's a 729. If it'll hold up. I'll get a name brand one. I'm feeling confident over the oil and belt now. Hopefully that goes well.
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