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It wasn't full turns like that, I put the bolt on just enough with my fingers to ensure it's not cross threaded, turned it in, and turned it out, moved freely at that point. At that point I had a lot of turning to do, and that's when I hit the fourth turn and it split, it did not even make it all the way..

I have a welder that says he can fix it for a costly price, but he said it doesn't appear to be aluminum but pot metal instead. He said he could be wrong..

About Parts for scooter, yeah I was a little ragged as I felt the case was of cheaper material at first as it's the exact bolt from the other motor. My only thought is someone might of opened the hole up on the old motor and cut new threads. No clue, but it's just a thought.

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To be honest I haven't really ignored what everyone else has said as the scooter is not even on the road yet, I have only slowly putted on it in the driveway, and turned it on to allow it to run for some time, typically allow it to idle for 30 minutes a day. I play with the throttle a few but that's it. Just trying to speed up the break in so when I actually get to drive the moped It shouldn't take long to break it in the rest of the way, the oil looks darker all ready..
I might change the oil once it's road ready, I might put Castro in and run the hell out of it then do a synthetic oil change as I know the engine isn't really broke in yet and I'm not trying to break it in with dirty oil.

Or is there a different way I should go about this?

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Also I read somewhere long ago that shell released most of there info on there oil and that there Diesel synthetic is the best to run in these little engines? It's something odd like that?

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To be honest I am a computer programmer, I'm decently well with tools and being mechanically inclined, Heck I practically grew up in a body and frame shop. I suppose I'm not that good, but better than most of the people messing with these scooters.

To be honest it just lined up.

Probably because it's a VIP based scooter. The only issue is the swing arm. Which I'm about to get fixed Sunday by a welder. I told him to ensure he does not remove the temper from the metal. If anything try to reinforce it with a bracket behind it.

It fits great to be honest!

Off topic, no clue what his problem is. You run into people like that in different community's. Instead of trying to point the right direction they talk down instead..

I was capable of looking at the contra spring color, it has that standard charcoal black color so it is probably just standard. I failed to look at the engagement springs as that was a vital inspection. I have blue ones stored away that I got with a kit. I think they said they were 1,500. Could be wrong.

I happened to install the 8.5 rollers, they have a real nice takeoff speed, The rpm gauge hit somewhere around 3,500 rpm's once the variator started moving forward. If they are stock engagement springs this is about accurate now where as before the variator would start engaging at 5,000 rpm's. and it would peak out in a scream and never made it to the flywheel like thing at all, it hardly moved. sorry I don't know the name :/.

So I could use possibly 6.5 grams. That would probably work out great. but once this break in is over I would really like to put the stock rollers back in for one last test. I just prefer to keep things low during the break in.

I think after my break in oil change I am going to run Castro gtx in the engine. Every engine rebuilder I know only uses this brand. I kinda want to do a secondary break in where I drive it normal, but I want to get a little hard on the engine more often. After this I might consider the synthetic. My only focus is a proper break in, I might finnaly drive the scooter however after the fourth oil change honestly.

Besides, Once I start running synthetic in the engine, It's going to be another break in all over again technically. I just personally don't think it's wise with how I drive.. I drive really hard on these engines typically 7 miles without even stopping. It's going to take some time, but I honestly sadly fear synthetic from past experiences. I'm getting anxiety from thinking about it D:

Thank you Lostforawhile for responding, It was sold to me as a 50cc... So far it's proving to me to be something else otherwise.

I changed the jet to a lower jet to retest it, and it honestly ran worse, the clucking like sound increased in density, even with the stock airbox rigged on. Number #90 on upjetting seems to do the trick, I reset the pin to dead center, part of the throttle body I think is what it's called? sorry :/.

Well with the rollers, it came with 5 gram. And the rpm's instantly hit 4k before you even start moving. It's also time to start inspecting those little springs on that stock clutch. At 4,000 rpm's I am only going 5 mph.. That's so wrong.. I then told myself it's time to inspect the cvt area while the bike is running. And sure enough, the variator does not engage unless it get's close to 5,000 rpm's. And it sounds terrible. It slightly reminds me of a weed eater running with no string on the head..

I ordered a simple cheap set of 8.5 gram rollers, not really name brand, but it will really be good for testing. I don't live in the city so low rpm's and higher top speed on these long country roads will work out. Let alone Low rpm's on a break in would be much better D:.

The stock airbox issue.. The engine I ordered was hardly half an inch longer than mine and the bolts don't meet up.
Even if I created a custom mount to bracket to the cvt area, then that mount to the airbox, the rear spring has a slight angle that pushes into the airbox in the rear now. I would have to slightly heat it up with a heat gun in attempts to reshape it just a little. Seems like a hassle so I intend to just order a new stock one latter on "Trying to cut all of this spending atm"

Also the flames are gone after up jetting. It was kinda cool to see for a second, but i feared it D:

*Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic, I just happen to be mechanically inclined D:

You probably have a more advanced problem, but this is worth a shot until an actual mechanic can help you.

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Try adjusting the idle fuel mixture

Example:



I know you have a 50cc but the video still applies.

Also adjust the idle screw. The gap should be somewhere around credit card length. Very thin. Once you have that gap play with it. Wait for the bike to get warm if it'll stay running. if you can get a very nice idle, let the bike cool down. Maybe an hour latter return and see where your idle is at, should aim for a tiny adjustment if anything, just enough to keep it running until warm again. Just a tinker.

*If that is nothing but a fail, you have a little more advanced issue than some screw.

Also check the tube going coming off the back of your carb going to the air box. If it appears to be on correctly, I would attempt to tighten it. Anything else I would adjust it, and get it nice and tight.

It's really cold out, and needing to adjust your bike on bipolar weather is a little annoying.

I hope your problem can be fixed shortly

Not sure if that's going to upload.. But this engine is slightly longer than mine, I know I need the plate as it is for the second shock "Yes this is a 50cc with two shocks".

Also the rear wheel would rattle to death unless I had a spacer of some type..
The exhaust also does not meet up. Sits to high actually, but I know a welder down the road from me.

If Anyone can help me with possibly finding maybe something like a spacer that would be awesome, this would be a quick fix to bypassing this. Also not sure if it would be okay to bypass the second spring? I think it's just for sway?

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EDIT: I was able to get the exhaust to fit luckily. I thought there would of been gaskets on a new motor for the exhaust port..

As for that bracket I'm a little lost. I think the only bypass is axle spacers as the wheel is very flat and designed for two shocks. still a little lost on what to do 

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Welp, If I get an answer as to if I do not need the second shock, then I will just do this instead:


So basically the bottom hole meets with the hole at the top, in this case it would work as a spacer, and it would prevent this device from spinning. I would be able to find a correct fix for latter on.

I had actually considered on doing this, Just figured it would be nice to put some money back where I took the 300++ dollars from for the new engine.

And other than the fact of getting myself into something I don't want to : D.

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I want to figure out a good set of proper tools to use for tearing down the engine. I think I might still put this engine on the Geely Fashion, that motor is a two stroke and parts are hard to find. Or I could attempt to get it running again and sell it with my current scooter one day. That would be a nice sell.

I will defiantly consider on using it as a learning project