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Post by motley on Jun 7, 2018 16:09:36 GMT -6
Managed to run into an issue where the timing chain is too tight. The chain tensioner was even removed. We even attempted to see if we could spin it on and still too tight. We didn't want to apply force so we called it a night. We even tighten everything down to make sure the jug was fully on at one point. What could cause this? We will be returning sunday to hopefully complete the job, we are going to ensure we re verify the the old gaskets are fully removed. We cleaned those areas, but I guess at this point you never know.. Any thoughts and pointers are appreciated. We will be taking the entire motor off Sunday plus dissembling that side of the crankcase just so we can fully check it out. Side note: I ordered this camshaft, but the mechanic teaching me said he thinks it's poor quality. And that the holes represent typically cutting cost www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y8FP4ZY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2I personally thought it was for lighter. My stock one measures out to be the same. Just no holes other than for the timing. *72cc kit
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Post by motley on May 30, 2018 5:23:41 GMT -6
I could really use help finding a bore kit that should fit my engine.
I have a jn1p39qmb motor. The fact that it's not 139qmb is making it tricky. Is it practically the same interchangeable parts as 139qmb?
If someone could help me that would be amazing!!
* I'm getting promoted with the company I'm working for and they said I'll have to do a bank deposit in the morning. Scooter red lines at 8k + 35 mph only. Kinda normal, but I need a boost for going to the bank. Also so cars won't run me over and kill me. Also so I can attempt to get away from someone chasing me down for the money deposit >.<. Versus just pulling over and handing them the money..
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Post by motley on Mar 19, 2018 9:04:03 GMT -6
Yes, that's one of the first parts I checked. I was lazy and snapped a picture of the belt.
The wheels are 10 inch rims with 3.50 on the tire.
The belt is "723 17.5 28"
I haven't seen one with a wider width and or anything that would say racing.
I honestly think it might of just stretched to be honest, the sides have a waxy look and the outer edges have turned white.
Bando kevlar belt with 500 miles
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Post by motley on Mar 18, 2018 18:49:36 GMT -6
Long case, I think I can fit put a 13 inch wheel on "14 max".
The belt seems almost perfect except for the slack in it that could be caused by heat, I could be wrong
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Post by motley on Mar 18, 2018 17:37:40 GMT -6
This is only a question as to how would you determine belt sizes.
The reason I ask is because my kevlar belt had a lot of play in it when the drive face has enough centrifugal force to go into highest gear. Somewhat noticeable during idle. The belt smacks the walls. I actually think I'm receiving a power loss over it.
I ordered an exact replacement and I'll see what happens as it might of stretched, but I really need to find out if there's another way to determine the belt size. I'm sure there's a chart or something.?.
But for now if there's a way I can measure from the variator to the clutch and convert it something idk ffs idk anyone might know lol!!
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Post by motley on Mar 6, 2018 16:18:33 GMT -6
I ordered that bicycle mph gauge.
But; I have been looking at a few other alternatives to make it more wanted when I sell the bike.
I plan to remove the entire speedometer and create a basic custom plate.
Then I'm just manually going to add gauges, once done I want to cover my custom speedometer with plexiglass, then screw it in.
I'm going to document part numbers for exact replacements.
I'm pretty good at making stuff like this so if this day comes soon I'll take pictures, document parts, maybe add simple instructions. This way someone could do the same or very similar.
From what I've configured with name brand parts it's going to cost 30 - 40 dollars. Not bad, and practically the same price as OEM clusters
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Post by motley on Mar 2, 2018 15:02:04 GMT -6
Interesting!
I might get both to be honest.
I'll probably see if I can mount the bicycle one on the mirror. Cops will probably think it's something else.
I'll have to look into its size, and wiring better
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Post by motley on Mar 1, 2018 16:01:21 GMT -6
I was considering on doing something like that for a tachometer.
I know I could configure once I pickup speeds, 8,000 rpms equal 35 mph etc. Of course this varies upon roller weighs etc.
6,000 rpms with 3 - 4 gram rollers could be 15 mph.
6,000 rpms with 6 - 8 gram rollers 'could' be 25 mph or lower. All depending on the riders weight etc etc.
*just something to fiddle with.
As for faults, there's a possibility of a bad gear puck "I think that's what it's called".
I had a guy tell me in the past the cable becomes stretched and weak, causing it to become sensitive. I think it's bs.
I also read that there's a plate inside the cluster that can be adjusted by bending it..
I've had my eyes open for a dirt cheap replacement " under 20", but nothing so far.
I've also considered getting a digital speedometer, something you might buy to make a dirt bike street legal. Haven't found anything cheap under 100 yet. And I prefer not investing money like that in this crap bike >.<.
Do you oddly have a amazon link to the one you bought?
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Post by motley on Feb 27, 2018 17:32:07 GMT -6
My speedometer is old and very inaccurate. 50 MPH on the speedo is actually 30 mph.
I've read of many reasons they go bad. But I don't want to jump to just replacing stuff that's not entirely needed.
If anyone can help me correctly fix this that would be awesome.
*Also, is it possible my rpm gauge could be off. At 7,800 rpms the motor runs/sounds like it's going only 6,000 rpms with plenty of power to go.
VIP future champion model
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Post by motley on Feb 22, 2018 18:51:45 GMT -6
I'm not entirely sure where to start poking at the bike.As some people know it's a new motor so everything is factory set that I know of. I inspected the variator, there's no washer.I probably should look into a fatter belt width? "if there is one".The motor still has the pair system. I do not currently have the proper tools to do what's needed so I'm just leaving that alone for now.Is there a true speed difference without it?Originally, the stock rollers made the rpm's hit 6000 with only going 12 mph, fresh build. With using 8.5 gram roller weights, I achieved 27 mph at 6000 rpms, I tested it only once at 7,200 and I achieved 32 mph.But there's a few issues, I down jetted the bike to stock. I still have a slight backfire flame sometimes.Wide open throttle sounds like an old farm biplane passing low "bhurrrn". Lightly let off and the noise is gone. I adjusted the pin on the needle to be as lean as possible.There's an issue going up long hills, might need slightly lighter rollers, not sure. As my speeds can go as low as 15 mph. It still moves lol. I plan to drain the gear oil out tomorrow. Might be needed during the break in dunno.The odd part is, I tried pumping the throttle as if it's a two stroke with a oil tank reservoir. It seems like after pumping the throttle for more fuel it runs faster and better. But if I make it more rich it runs like hell.. Any helpful checks/changes are much appreciated
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Post by motley on Feb 6, 2018 22:40:36 GMT -6
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Post by motley on Feb 6, 2018 19:43:06 GMT -6
Well the worst that could happen is the other side cracking/splitting..
I did what I will consider a flex test on the side that currently does not have a shock, seemed to favor slightly twisting on the side I was pushing on, and that's the side without a shock.
Is there anyone here that has a stock 50cc scooter, that could take a picture of where the rear shock bracket is on there frame? It would be nice to do a compare to a frame with one shock. It's possible it might need to be moved a little, maybe not.
The other thought if this is a disaster, would i run into issues if I wanted to attempt a crankcase swap? From my new motor to the old one? Then there would be no issue technically.. If not I might just order a new crank case, preferably an exact replacement
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Post by motley on Feb 6, 2018 15:55:56 GMT -6
Is it bad if I where to get an axle spacer for now to bypass that second shock? My the wheel is designed for it but I don't mind upgrading to bigger wheels that do not have this gap for the swing arm, in return I won't really need but one bolt hole for the exhaust at the moment. The muffler is paper weight. I do not mind doing this if it's not going to crack the other side of the crank case where the suspension goes, something tells me the swing arm is needed on this frame for sway. I could be wrong. Most scooters do not have this, but if it's safe I will bypass it and have a professional welder take a look at the frame to possibly reinforce it anywhere that might be needed if it where for sway. ..
So in other words: Is it safe to bypass? Is it possible that on the other side of the crank case where the shock connects, could that get cracked like this hole due to more tension on that side or something? And adding an extra axle spacer fore the length of the bearings, is that safe? I will eventually replace the front and rear wheels, just not right now. Look forward to a response Maybe someone has a nice link for different sized wheels?
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Post by motley on Feb 5, 2018 8:58:38 GMT -6
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Post by motley on Feb 3, 2018 18:47:19 GMT -6
Also, I never "Forced" the screw in, I put the wrench on after slightly putting it on with my fingers... I was also running out of day light at 7:40. My eye's adjusted but..
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