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Post by yoster on Jul 22, 2010 10:32:04 GMT -6
I hate to say it but you still have a charging problem. 12.98v idle/13.5v while at higher RPM's with no lights plugged in isn't sufficient. Especially when your fan kicks on. I had those numbers back when my lights were plugged in (as you do now), and even then, it's not sufficient. If you can't get it up to 14.5v while revving, and around 13-13.5v while at idle (with the fan off), then you'll eventually run into battery drain problems.
As previously recommended, I'd check out Damin's thread. There are many causes to the problem, but one of the core roots is the Regulator Rectifier. Replacing that alone will really step up your charging. I haven't done it yet, so I'm getting the same numbers you are (a bit more; replaced my diode with a relay). I can drive the scooter for 2-3 days to work but then must put it on the charger overnight.
Replacing the RR with the newer upgraded one found by Damin will solve the majority of this issue. The next two steps would be to replace the diode with e relay, and then possible (they're looking into this now) getting a better or upgraded stator. The first two options however will be enough for regular driving with all lights on.
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Post by yoster on Jul 12, 2010 20:24:37 GMT -6
Pretty sad that it takes all that just to finally arrive at some 'normal' charging specs. Hoping Damin's new RR from that shop will provide some more punch with stock equipment.
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Post by yoster on Jul 12, 2010 20:04:21 GMT -6
Hey Todd - that fancy new regulator arrive today?
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Post by yoster on Jul 11, 2010 10:45:29 GMT -6
It's these voodoo regulators, I'm tellin' ya. Some dude must have died in the plant while working on them and now exists to haunt us all that uses them.
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Post by yoster on Jun 22, 2010 9:51:14 GMT -6
My personal thought is that the CFMoto has the higher wattage fan due to the terribly placed radiator.
I can hold barely 13v @ 5000rpm with fan on and both 35w headlights. Unfortunately I spend a lot of time at lights, and at a light with the fan on, I'm down around 12.3v or so. It's enough to let me drive the scooter around for about 4 days until I need to put it on the float charger overnight.
Still think it all comes back to the regulator, personally. Damin if you lived close I'd send you this one I have that holds 15v at idle 16.5 @ 5000rpm.. for 10 minutes until it overheats and shuts down. Proves that the stator has the juice, but these regulators don't seem to handle it correctly. I wish there was a way to custom make a regulator rectifier or something.
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Post by yoster on Jun 19, 2010 17:18:00 GMT -6
Damin, your scooter must be an exact clone of mine. I've experienced every single thing you have, including the mysterious "touch random wires and it dies!!" The good news is I did finally solve the latter problem. It was the two wires coming off the stator going to the CDI; the connector itself. You would barely graze them and it would kill the scooter, but it NEVER happened when I was ever riding! I cut the stock connector off and made a quick-connect crimp thing. As far as your charging problem, like I said, I replaced the diode with a relay and that helped. At least they call them a relay on some sites, it's still a diode: www.scooterparts4less.com/Moped_Web/GY6_Relay.htmFrom that point, it was try about 6 different regulators until I found one that worked well. Some would charge at 17v and overheat, then stop charging altogether, others wouldn't charge at all, others would charge PERFECTLY at 14.5v then DIE after a week. I FINALLY have one that works well, but, I'm too lazy to put it on because the one I currently have (the original stock one) is doing well enough where it juuuuust barely keeps the batter maintained. For some reason if I put the diode back, it ruins everything again. Hope you find some special thing that fixes it once and for all... i'd be interested!
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Post by yoster on Jun 14, 2010 16:03:04 GMT -6
See Damin, should have read my long thread on SD My charging issue was solved the same way.. I replaced the diode with a relay. The relay is triggered off one of the fuses that's only activated when the ignition is on.. can't remember the one exactly. Might be turn signals. It was easy to splice into (pulled the fuse box out from under the seat and tapped into the wire leaving the fuse (so the fuse would still protect it). Now when I turn on the ignition, the relay kicks on (which turns on my headlights now if I don't start the scooter), then I start the scoot. So far so good. My regulator is still weak, but it gave it enough juice to make it drivable and at least maintain the battery.
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Post by yoster on Jun 2, 2010 13:54:44 GMT -6
Maybe the manual was more because it was taking the chinometer into account lol.
I change mine every 1000 miles (after break-in). I'm only at 900 miles total and have changed it 3 times.. so once I finally get to 1000 miles I'll be changing it at each 1k mark.
1000 miles might be a bit early too.. remember, that's 1000 miles on your odometer, and these things run fast as it is. Mine is 20% over! So I guess in actual miles I'm changing it at 800.
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Post by yoster on May 25, 2010 12:38:48 GMT -6
That is correct operation. No power will come out of the stator or rectifier until the scooter is actually running. Headlights are driven off the stator, so they won't come on until it's running.
Things like your turn signals however are driven off the battery. So if they key is on, scooter off, the turn signals will still work.
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Post by yoster on May 25, 2010 12:02:53 GMT -6
On your scooter, yes. They will only come on AFTER you start the scooter. It's due to a diode in-line between the rectifier and the headlights. I actually changed my diode out for a relay, so the headlights come on when the key is on. Reason I did it is for steadier light output. At low low idle, since the lights were previously driven off the stator/rectifier, they'd blink a little bit. Relay made it so they would feed off battery power and smoothed out the voltage. Also, for whatever reason (probably due to a bad diode), the relay seemed to increase the charging voltage to my battery a tad bit.
JR will be able to offer more complete info on this.
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Post by yoster on May 24, 2010 12:25:59 GMT -6
You can buy the exact Honda version of it, but they go for over $100. I'd honestly just try one off eBay; don't pay more then $35ish, and get a 'large version.' Like in the link below or the second two links that JR posted. I haven't read your other threads, but is your battery actually dying, or are you just concerned? cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-CF250-250cc-Go-Kart-Scooter-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2307441ab4QQitemZ150445759156QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesNote: The 'small version' of the rectifier is fine also, I'm just not using it because the voltage drops a wee bit more vs the 'large one' when the fan kicks on, and I like taking all the power I can get. I have the same exact scooter as you; same name, model, engine, even color, so they're going to act similar.
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Post by yoster on May 24, 2010 10:42:27 GMT -6
Mine doesn't get to 13.5 either; acts just like yours, but it keeps the battery charged so I'm living with it. If you ever go to the SD forum you can find my long thread about it.
Let me tell you something I've learned about these Chinese regulator rectifiers.. they all act differently. My current one acts like yours. My 2nd one died in a week, but would go to 14.5v until then. My third one went to 17v but would overheat and die after 10 minutes until it cooled. My fourth one acts like my second one, but is smaller and doesn't have the same amp output, but I keep it as a spare. It's actually the exact one that JR posted in the first eBay link. Notice that it's smaller than the others. Cruiser66 uses that one, but only runs with one headlight on for that reason.
My current on also has random days where it decides to charge at 16v.. don't ask me why.. well I know why.. they're cheaply made lol.
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Post by yoster on May 19, 2010 17:05:54 GMT -6
Here's the big reason why you notice the difference. The Lance vintage has that rocker-style suspension (not sure on the official term.. the part at the bottom where it mounts to the tire). The vintage and the similar looking "Evo" (http://www.nationalwholesaletools.com/bmsevo150ccscooter.aspx) both have this suspension type. THAT is the key thing that's giving them that "floater" feeling. When my wife and I go to Maui and rent scooters for the week we always get those because of their front suspension. It's like riding on a cloud!!
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