Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

Yeah it's interesting; noticed that awhile back but never thought of doing what you did.

Regular low-beams seems to use 1 of the 2 filaments in the bulb, 'hi-beams' switches to the other filament, the one closer to the inside of the bulb, effectively making the lights shoot a little higher. Hitting the 'pass' button makes both filaments light-up at the same time. I think that's why these bulbs are labeled as '25/25' '35/35' or '45/45' - hi and low beams are the same wattage, but on a different filament in the bulb. Holding down that button I guess would then double the wattage the bulb is consuming? Any worries about it getting too hot and damaging the plastic headlight lenses?

In hindsight I suppose I could have just picked up a used RR off a Goldwing GL1100 on eBay for 40 or so bucks, re-wire it, and be done with it. Oh well, live and learn!

Hey man,

Hang in there! I know your list sounds like a lot but honestly these are all things that can be knocked out in just a few hours.

1. Won't start now, has that weak sounding start. - Charge your Battery

2. Need a new enricher. - Check the connection first. One of the yellow wires from the stator will have a 4th yellow wire coming out of the connector they go to. Be sure that's connected well to the enricher. If it is, and the problem is the enricher, it's a 5 minute fix. Hopefully it's just a bad connection though. A bad connection there will cause the enricher to not function properly, resulting in the high-idle you're experiencing.

3. Need to adjust valves (tried to today and have no idea where the heck anything is) - this is VERY easy! (Do you have the cfmoto version of the engine?). Read the "poll" at the top of this thread and look at the video I posted. I promise you, this takes no time at all and is something you shouldn't stress out about. I too was intimidated by it at first, bu after actually doing it, it's now a no brainer.

4. Need to check spark plug (absolutely no clue to the where abouts of this) - Again assuming you have the cfmoto engine. If so, it's on the side opposite of the muffler. Ger under the scooter and look up towards the seat. You'll see the spark plug wire going to it; it's coming out the side of the engine at about a 45 degree angle. You can also kind of see it when you open the seat and open the little access hatches. It's on the side of the valve adjusters, just below them.


5. Need to fix my squeaking problem. - Lets worry about this one later

6. Need a new back tire. Won't hold a complete fill. Only holds about 65% of air. For the time being, you might want to throw some of that green slime in there. Don't do this until the scooter is up and running and you can ride it around a bit. This could also be (and probably is) your valve stems. Before slime, start by replacing those. I haven't done it but I understand it's quick and easy.

7. Need a new right side mirror. - lets worry about this once the scooter is running.

8. Need a new bulb for right tail light. - 1 minute fix; bulb can be found at wal-mart. #1157 - Do not replace until item below addressed.

9. Still having electrical problems. Yellow wires coming from regulator are getting very hot and are melting. Oh joy. - Your RR is faulty and not limiting the volts to 14.5. One of my many RR's I went through did the same exact thing. Resulted in several blown bulbs too (a few of which were LED's, arg!). Once your other items are addressed, a simple RR from Oregon Motorcycle Parts (you can PM Damin or I about this), will fix this issue; we'll do some testing first though. Again assuming this is the cfmoto engine.

10. Need to see what's with my breaks. They don't seem to be "all the way there." - Explain?

11. Need a new air filter. - Lets order one!

Thanks! Running two 35w bulbs; upgraded from the stock 25w.

Yes, it is a bit smaller than the stock one. Sounds like yours didn't get wired correctly.

I'll be trying mine today and let you know how it goes.

Either the wrong one, or that Lance is using some different wiring scheme as our "reflex clone" scoots, though I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram in regards to the RR connectors is one and the same across all cfmoto engines.

JRR/Cruiser - is that correct?

Before you start jumping into it, let me stress again that it's very normal for the rear brake to be harder to pull/less braking power than the front brake.

As an example, a normal "squeeze" of my front brake will let the handle come back about half-way, the rear brake, 1/4", not much at all, before the handle gets hard to pull in any further.