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You betta' write up a how-to with pics when you're done lol!

They all use the normal 194's, except the turn signal/bright indicator lights. Those use smaller ones; can't remember (edit - they are 74's).

The dash itself (for the gauges) uses 3 LED's (left, center and right); just buy 3 194's that have a flat surface, like the ones with 4 SMT LED's on the face.

Note - I never really fully fixed my charging issue until I swapped out the RR for the one from OMP. Some here have done other things to get around it... aka I think Cruiser runs with only 1 of his 2 headlights on. The stock Chinese RR's on these things are definitely a weak link in the charging system.

[edit] - Here's the ones I used behind the gauges - 3 of them (not from this vendor, but same bulbs):
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-T10-194-Turn-Indicator-Bulbs-Light-SMD-4-LED-White-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aabdeb658QQitemZ320711079512QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3003wt_1165

And here are the type I used for the turn/brights indicators:
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10x-T5-74-WHITE-3-CHIP-SMD-DASHBOARD-LED-CAR-LIGHT-BULB-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588e5e9004QQitemZ380345683972QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3359wt_980

Here's the guy I always order from:
myworld.ebay.com/warden_jp2002/

Guys - this is normal operation for the 244cc engine on these scooters if you live in warm/hot climate (Like Fresno, Phoenix, etc). Don't count on the fans cycling off, ever, during the warmer/hotter days especially if you're in steadily flowing traffic. That radiator is in a terrible spot and just plain doesn't get enough airflow.. it could also be a bit larger imo.

Rob, I'm suspecting that it's not cycling on/off now because it's warming up. During the winter mine actually will cycle on and off.. in a few more weeks, it won't (usually by now it won't, but we've had a longer than usual winter here in Fresno).

A few things People have done that have helped:

1) Change the fluid from a 50/50 mix to more of a 80/20 mix (80 water, 20 antifreeze), and add an addidive such as 'water wetter' or 'hyperlube.' I noticed a decent improvement after doing this one.

2) Adding a second radiator

3) Changing the radiator fan to one that produces the same or more CFM's, but pulls far fewer amps. This won't change the cooling (unless you increase CFM's), but it does put you in a situation where you won't need to worry about the constant fan operation draining your battery.

Which impact wrench are you using alleyoop?

Mine also has that "P" ..does nothing (I have the same scoot you do)

I'll have to admit it, I actually like those connectors lol. It's not the perfect solution I'm sure, but there have been plenty of times where these have allowed me to quickly and instantly tap into a power line to hook something up, without any splicing or cutting of wires.

I don't know about you guys, but all I did was snip off the end of the 'nipple' on the gear-oil I got from walmart, and it fit into the hole perfectly. Took me maybe 5 minutes to drain then re-fill.

Note about that tutorial. I have that same pump (for when I change the gear oil on my evinrude), however I don't see how you could use it on a scoot. You recommend replacing the lower bolt then filling from the top. My pump makes a decent seal when I screw it in, so that wouldn't get me anywhere fast. Why can't we just fill these from the bottom with that pump like you do an outboard?