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Post by cdoublejj on Apr 3, 2012 23:22:32 GMT -6
I think i may have found a way to see if these are viable. put it together cycle the engine a few times (let cool) and disconnect a hose and put your thumb on the end and see if it has any pressure. How do you run setup magnet in the loop? does the gy6 even run that hot? I modded my CVT cover and temps went down. |
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Post by cdoublejj on Jan 1, 2012 1:44:15 GMT -6
well as far as clutch engage, my 50cc doesn't engage till just under 4k. I do like the idea of an HID kit, any one know of any?
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Post by cdoublejj on Jan 1, 2012 1:08:43 GMT -6
had similar problem but, different design on mine i had to tweak things back straight with hammer and had to tighten up a rivet with a 2lb hammer and punch and lot of lubricant and adjusted it till it moved freely but, also wasn't too loose.
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by: cdoublejj - Nov 16, 2011 23:11:03 GMT -6
Post by cdoublejj on Nov 16, 2011 23:11:03 GMT -6
as long as you feel that way with a 50, why not a blower and efi? possibly welding more meat on the cooling fins to. maybe through welding on the lower engine case on one side add a finned oil sump that holds an other quart or two of oil. then there are better fuels to. john one more thing to contemplate is with all that power you still have a frame that was designed for 30 mph. thats true, with stock engine i get the shakes coming out of turns ever once in a blue moon but, i think it may be because i'm unintentionally ENGLISHING the bars. I'd don't think it will be too bad if i can do 75mpg on a z50 i'm sure this frame can handle a few more mph. I like the idea of a smaller bore for a few various reasons one to prove you don't need a 586897869584059860cc bore up kit and efficiency. another thing is with anything larger than 70cc bore kit you can get problems with jug to crank case clearances. mainly it is all just for the fun factor. I did almost consider the oil cooler but, as mentioned before there stock oil pump wasn't designed for that and there aren't higher volume pumps to replace it with. Unless you get an electric one. i did think about welding the head or possibly the piston but, you have to pre heat it with something hot to keep it from warping. i think it may be easier to weld the head than the piston. I think i might buy an s65 piston just to see if it fits if not i'll use it on something else. |
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by: cdoublejj - Nov 16, 2011 0:50:46 GMT -6
Post by cdoublejj on Nov 16, 2011 0:50:46 GMT -6
Well i've been busy and not busy and it's been a while. I'm fairly sure i'm going to buy a 44mm 60cc jug and piston kit it's about 50 usd. So far whats been done is are ported intake ported exhaust flange exhaust header was wrapped with asbestos cloth or some other old school cloth knowing my dad clipped the slider spring on the carb adjusted the carb. deleted the vacuum system accept for the petcock. as far as i can remember at least. clipped and modified the spark plug opened up the CVT cover replaced drive belt finally got a horn xenon bulb new throttle cable new valve stem on rear tire replaced locks, ignition, and keys fixed trunk latch (pics to big, click for image, or copy and paste the URL) i.imgur.com/Y9WU8.jpgi.imgur.com/20pD4.jpgi.imgur.com/FMD6n.jpgi.imgur.com/RVmLN.jpgi.imgur.com/4Hhj4.jpgSome just boring every day use others economical power adders or reliability/efficiency in the case of the spark plug mod. I also may have found a 60cc dome top piston that may fit, i may have to buy just to see but, some collaboration with some scooters gurus may also give me an idea if it will even fit planetminis.com/community/topic/170626-sport-65/page__gopid__1737367#entry1737367I got to thinking about all the GY6s and how they used to be honda design and how the same can be said with the whole monkey bike scene and i thought, "wait a minute" and sure enough both Honda and Chinese engines tend to run 13mm wrist pins. I used to have an s65 engine witch i sold. Now all i have left are the rings to it and some odds and ends but, no piston. i.imgur.com/YX7Tc.pngi.imgur.com/0UXUj.pngThe Honda Sport 65 was a 44mm bore with a 13mm wrist pin and 41.4mm stroke. Sound familiar? So maybe if the deck height and ring height and dome height are alright then it's possible it may fit then you would have to deal with the valve relief but, since i know some people that may not be a big deal. I also tried the scrappy dogs sport A9 cams it's either poor product or i got defective item, the amount of hours installing and removing it on several occasions and double checking for installation error with very skilled mechanics, it's definitely the cam. one of the skill mechanics said the cam gear has to be off the way it runs, witch it runs like the timing chain is off but that's not the case. He says based on the stock cams gear he can repress the A9s gear, i tried emailing scrappy dog, they said i was stuck with it because it's been so long since ordered it, and to make the best of it. The mechanic said that sport bike cams (he works on a lot of sport bikes) don't even come with a cam gear to prevent this problem. so we may repress the cam gear if and when there may not be any room for any more lift if i use a dome top piston if it even fits. most likely what i see happening is a decked head, and the A9 cam with repressed gear and maybe a partial port of the exhaust side of the head. |
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 20, 2011 22:35:22 GMT -6
some times the drive pully gets stuck open
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 20, 2011 19:16:15 GMT -6
i'm gonna assume they work on 49cc too and that the Dr.pulleys are bit higher quality?
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 20, 2011 4:02:48 GMT -6
guess i have some more items to add to the parts list. is there a particular name for these bits when searching flea bay?
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 18, 2011 16:28:29 GMT -6
the guides and guide plate are fine, there are these tiny weeny little plastic things that go in these 3 notches, not really what they are for, 1 broke and it seems to be running just as well as it ever did.
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 18, 2011 6:16:23 GMT -6
Well it tends not to start when it's 4th gear. but, since it has a CVT and not gears the CVT was stuck at maximum drive, you see some where in between revving 9500 rpms when the belt suddley snapped and the impact gun i think some of the rollers got tossed around jamming the drive pulley thus lagging the engine down when trying to start and idle.
the scoot seems to be just fine now, one of those plastic things on the roller plate/guide broke, it seems to have no effect. i have noticed the newer and, wider than the worn belt takes some hutspaa out of the scoot untill it gets going, it seems it was running it's fastest just before the belt snapped, due to the old belt being worn thinner, must allow the cvt to shift a bit differently.
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 17, 2011 15:16:13 GMT -6
well now it's super borked, after the drive pully giving us problems as in the nut not coming off in eitherdirection with the big impact we spread the sheevs in the back just sort of stretched on there. rotated ita few times to make sure the belt centered up and the sheevs contracted witch they did how ever it wouldn't start it has spark, not so sure about fuel. when i do get it started the drive belt chatters like crazy till over 4k if i apply the brakes any at all it damn nears dies or just dies. if it does idle it chatters and vibrates like crazy.
i'm censing more than one problem. i checked my vacuum route i'm already running straight from the intake to petcock and have been for some time. i deleted a few extra hoses and a capped off Tee and ran a single hose from intake to pet cock, to eliminate the chance of a leak, that and the Tee was so brittle that i accidentally snapped it in half when checking the fit.
Any ideas? Kind of disheartening out of all the troubles i have had from it this is the worst.
EDIT: fuel is visible in the tank and fuel filter. Valve lash was sett only several months ago, the plug looks fine, tan in the center black on the edges. i have fixed the loose ignition circuit gremlin a twice before and it's geting a healthy spark so i don't think it's a harness problem. the scoot ran just several days ago.
EDIT: SOLVED the belt went on much easier the second time the drive pully must have gone wacko when it popped a belt. it was stuck wide open so to speak at the top end ratio.
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 16, 2011 17:47:00 GMT -6
I'd just assume look for a 50cc - 70cc round slide off of something jap.
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 15, 2011 21:13:38 GMT -6
any reason to go with a flat slide, people seem to talk about the mall the time. wouldn't need a rather small carb to better accommodate 49-60cc.
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 15, 2011 0:55:33 GMT -6
my whole idea is to delete all of that except for the intake to petcock. i believe mine does have ACV atm. I'm thinking a nice mikuni would work nice and acceleration might be better with out a slide. i would probably have to work the choke ordeal though, maybe i can find mikuni with electric choke. i could see cold starts being hard with straight carb like mikuni.
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Post by cdoublejj on Oct 14, 2011 21:29:01 GMT -6
Whats an ACV valve. i wonder why they even implemented the vacuum system, i'm thinking emissions.
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