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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 23, 2011 1:51:26 GMT -6
Thank you, I will look for that when I open up the carb. I should probably replace the fuel lines while I'm in there too. The name on them starts with an "F". I don't think they are very good quality.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 22, 2011 15:53:39 GMT -6
2008 Adly 150 with 900Km. I was riding home after fueling up. When I pulled up to a Stop sign the engine stalled. Never done that. Would not restart. Started smelling gas so I got off and started looking. Saw gas running from the air box. It wouldn't stop so I walked home, got my pickup, loaded the scooter and took it home. Scooter leaked gas all of the way home. When I unloaded it the leaking stopped. Still had about a half a tank of gas. Called the dealer and he said "stuck float valve (gee you think) happens all of the time. Just bounce it up and down real hard to unstick it." I questioned him about why the fuel valve didn't shut off the flow since the engine wasn't running and he told me that sometimes once the siphon starts it will just continue until empty. Had to go to work.
This morning I tried to start it and it turned over but would not start. However, gas again began to flow out of the air box. I was able to drain the remainder into a gas can. Managed to get the body panels separated and the seat box out without breaking any tabs. Took the fuel valve off (an inline type with 4 nipples) and tested it. Put some gas back in the tank and no flow. Applied a modest amount of suction to the vacuum line and had good flow. Removed suction and flow stopped immediately. Repeated this process several times until the tank was empty again and the valve performed as it should.
I pulled the spark plug out and it was wet. I also pulled it as I have heard if you don't in these situations that the piston can seize up if you don't let the excess gas evaporate from the cylinder.
I have to get ready to go to work again so I will remove the carburetor tomorrow morning to check out the float valve. Don't want to get into it part way and have to quit.
So what the dealer said about the fuel valve, "once the siphon starts and you have a stuck float valve, the flow will continue till the siphon is broken" or words to that effect. Is that true? Or do I need a new vacuum fuel valve also? It did seem to operate correctly when I tested it.
Sorry about being long winded. Any thoughts?
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 20, 2011 12:53:23 GMT -6
If the smoke is coming from oil being burned it is getting into the combustion chamber either through the piston rings or leaking down through the valve guides. If either is the case a top end rebuild is in order. If it is oil causing the smoke that is usually indicated by a lighter colored smoke with an oily smell.
If the smoke is caused by running really rich, the smoke is usually darker in color and you can really smell the unburned fuel. Once you get the airbox situation fixed you can dial in your air/fuel mixture screw and see if that helps.
Out of curiosity, how does your spark plug look? If it's a fuel issue causing the smoke, sometimes the heat range of the plug can make a difference.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 20, 2011 2:20:57 GMT -6
Also, the scooter smokes a lot with black stinky smoke. What can cause that and how to fix it? ( I recently had engine and gear oils changed) If it is stinky like gas it might be running too rich. A new filter might help and/or adjust the mixture screw on the carb. Otherwise it could be that oil is getting past the piston rings.  Or maybe there's too much oil in the crankcase and it is getting forced past the rings. Did it smoke like that before the oil change? |
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 20, 2011 2:15:46 GMT -6
Filter looks clean on the inside and dirty on the outside so yes, I would replace it as it is reaching the point where airflow is starting to be restricted a bit.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 19, 2011 1:59:12 GMT -6
Yes the pictures are visible. Cracks/holes in the airbox are not a good thing and can make your scooter run as you previously described. I would try to repair those cracks with some kind of silicone sealant. That hose you refer to looks to me like a low point drain of some kind to be able to see and get ride of condensation. At any rate I would plug that up also. The idea is to have all air entering the carb to have to got through the filter and only at a certain volume at any given rpm. Any change to that throws off your air/fuel mixture and if not compensated for through jetting and exhaust pipes will cause a poor running engine. Air leaks (via cracks) can be intermittently troubling due to engine vibration, and bumps in the road making the cracks widen up and shrink in size thereby intermittently changing the volume of air entering the system. Doe any of this make sense? It's late and I'm tired.....
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