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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 14, 2011 16:58:42 GMT -6
On yours you should have the tank mounted petcock. Follow the fuel line back from the carb to the gas tank. At the tank, directly underneath the fuel hose should be a smaller hose. That is the vacuum line connection on the petcock. Follow it back to either a "Y" or "T" connection, or if yours doesn't have those, to the intake manifold. Disconnect the line there and check it for fuel leaking as Alley says.
You can check for proper petcock operation by disconnecting the fuel hose from the carb and placing the end into a container. Then gently suck on the vacuum hose and see if fuel flows out. removing suction from the vacuum line will stop the fuel from flowing out of the gas line. If it doesn't work that way all of the time then the petcock is bad and can overfeed gas to the carb.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 14, 2011 13:50:08 GMT -6
Have you tried using Seafoam? Just put about 1 oz. in the tank per gallon of gas. It is good for helping to keep the inside of the carb clean. Walmart carries it for around $8.00 a can.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 14, 2011 2:54:47 GMT -6
You need to get access to the back side of the key lock. You'll probably have to take the body panels off on that side to do it. Once you get to the back side of the lock you can grab the cable end with a pair of pliers and pull while holding the outer part of the cable. Once you get the latch unlocked there should be an adjustment on it to take out some of the slack in the cable.
At least that is how I would do it on my Bali 250. Hope this helps.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 14, 2011 1:06:30 GMT -6
Tvnacman, it has two plugs. One has 4 ins and the other has 3, so a 7 pin I suppose.
Rich, I got it assembled enough to run today. I laid a cooking thermometer down where the fuel line had been on the R/R and let it run for about a half an hour. The highest temperature reading I got was 125 degrees Fahrenheit. So now I don't know what caused the fuel line to look like that.
Also, the PO had told me the scooter has on overheating problem but in running it for a half hour the temp gauge never made it quite up the the half way mark. It was idling most of the time but I did hold the rpm's up for a few minutes. Next day or two I'm going to put the body back on it and do some road testing.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 12, 2011 23:52:21 GMT -6
It is bolted to the frame on the right side. I'll have to double check tomorrow but I believe it sits under where the battery compartment is. Battery is under the seat. Now this has just reminded me that when I pulled the seat bucket out there was a hole melted thru in the bottom of the battery compartment. How in the h*ll did I forget to connect the two?!? I've only had it for a week. I picked it up cheap for something to work on as I have wanted to get a 250 but can't afford a new one this year. I do know that it runs and all the electrical seems to work fine while idling. I wanted to tear it down and give it some long overdue maintenance that the PO neglected to do before I started using it. The PO did give me a new R/R with it. He said when he first got it 3 years ago, it had a charging problem and he was told to change the R/R. He did but that didn't fix it so he put the old one back it and it started charging again and has been charging ever since. I'll look tomorrow and see how many pins it has.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 12, 2011 18:42:56 GMT -6
Thanks Rich and Cruiser. I'm waiting on a new airbox to arrive. As soon as it does I'll start putting it back together enough to start it and try to get some temp readings. I'm taking advantage of giving it a good going over while I've got it apart. The PO didn't seem to be into maintaining it like it should have been. Can't just ride them forever, somethings got to give sometime!
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 12, 2011 18:34:23 GMT -6
Just got off work. Sorry to hear that you issue isn't solved yet. I'm betting there is some crud in the carb that is messing with the fuel flow. On the Bali I just bought, the previous owner was convinced it needed a new carb because even though it ran, it would leak gas from the carb when it was shut off. After hanging my head in agreement and paying a nice low price I took it home and opened up the carb. The bowl had bits of rubber in it from the fuel line. The float needle valve would not drop out on it's own, it was stuck open in place and I had to pull it out. Now the carb works as good as new. Would cleaning your carb fix the issue? IMO, probably. Should you buy the new carb and install it? At that price, definitely. The experience you'll gain in maintaining your scooter will be worth way more than the cost of the carb. Once the new one is in place and everything is working as it should you can take the time to tear in to the old one then you'll have a spare and that never hurts. (Or if you can't bare to look at it anymore you can always send it to me! ;D) As for the easyouts, I don't know if there is one small enough in that package to work on those enricher clip screws (the 1/8 inch one might) but they are something that is always handy to have around. Would have chimed in sooner but the gates wouldn't work on autopilot today
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 20:27:39 GMT -6
Thanks Alleyoop. I'll be sure to tie that line away from it.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 19:48:51 GMT -6
Gotcha. When I turn either screw I only turn it 1/4 turn at a time and wait 15 seconds for it to catch up ( I'm gentle with it ) Oh also when I said my spark was wet it wasn't like super wet it just wasn't like bone dry That's good because I've found they respond best to a gentle touch. But then there are those times when a bigger hammer is needed!
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 19:45:09 GMT -6
I picked up a 2007 Bali MC-13-250 cheap last week as my new project. It runs, charges and everything electrical works. Today, in the process of changing the fuel lines I noted that the line coming from the tank to the fuel filter had been resting on the back of the rectifier. Where it had made contact, the fuel line had burned almost all of the way through. If I hadn't bought it the guy I got it from may have ended up with a serious problem. As I start putting things back together I will make sure that I tie the fuel line away from the rectifier to avoid any further such issues.
Now I know that by their nature, rectifiers give off heat. My question is, just how hot do these things get? Should I replace the rectifier even though the electrics seem to be working correctly? The fuel lines appeared to be the original ones.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 19:30:56 GMT -6
Hehehe. I figured. It just sounded scary. So clock wise on idle screw is higher idle, counter clockwise is lower idle.... On the air/fuel ratio ( mixture ) screw clockwise is leaner ( less gas ) and counter clockwise is richer ( more gas ) - causing the higher idle? Am I correct here? That is all correct. But turning the air screw counter-clockwise will only increase the idle to a point. Once you go beyond that point, too fuel heavy of a mixture will start to flood the plug out and idle will drop off and if allowed to continue the engine will stop running.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 19:14:12 GMT -6
The words " kill your motor " just scared me. I don't want to have to replace that He just means the motor will stop running due to fuel starvation. Once you feed it again it will start right back up.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 19:09:35 GMT -6
I usually set mine so that the wheel will not spin while the enricher is open on a cold start then as it closes the idle drops a little more. Yours is probably ok as long as you have stock springs in the clutch. Stiffer springs will let the rpm's climb higher before the clutch engages and starts the wheel spinning.
That canister in your one video is to collect fuel vapors instead of letting them vent to the atmosphere. That little piece in between the big canister and the gas tank is a one way check valve. Vapor from the tank, thru the check valve and into the big canister for storage. When the engine runs, vacuum is supplied to a valve on the big canister. the valve opens and the suction of air coming thru the air filter draws the vapors out of the big canister into the air intake side of the carb to be burned. If it works as designed, great. If not, some people choose to disconnect all of it. I say if it is working leave it be.
Probably more than you wanted to know.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 18:43:01 GMT -6
The gate is on autopilot for a minute.
When I watched your video of the scooter running it sounded to me like it was idling pretty fast. Was the rear wheel spinning while the scooter was idling? If the idle speed is too high the carb will start drawing fuel through the main jet and if so, adjusting the mixture screw might not make an audible difference. Alley, please correct me if I am wrong about that.
If my hearing was just out of whack and it's idling slow enough, are you able to seal off the area you pulled the cap from over the air screw with your thumb or something. If that doesn't make a difference in idle speed it rules out air getting past the screw threads.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 16:25:48 GMT -6
Thanks for the picture Alley, much better than words sometimes. OK, off to stare at the gate for 8 hours! Good luck SB.
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