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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 16:12:21 GMT -6
The carb you referenced will work fine. I can even see the edge of the air screw in the second picture as you scroll down. If by ignition you mean the throttle cable, don't let it worry you. you've done tougher things than that already.
Before I got the new carb I would get a "shorty" screwdriver. I used a screwdriver bit, the kind that goes in the end of a screw gun and just held it in my fingers and adjusted the carb. Worth a shot before buying a new carb, even tough that is a good price.
Got to get ready for work but I'll check back later.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 11, 2011 15:45:14 GMT -6
When you drilled out the plug covering the air screw and then adjusted the air/fuel mixture, did you tighten the clamps holding the carb on before adjusting the mixture? If not, now that the carb is on tight again the mixture would be running too rich at this time. If it idles I would re-adjust the mixture before pulling the choke off and testing it. If that doesn't change anything then check the choke.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 10, 2011 20:57:55 GMT -6
My NST 50 is identical to your scooter, except yours looks much better than mine. When I pulled my carb to clean it the wires from the enricher ran over to the frame on the right side (facing forward) of the scooter. They met up with the frame above where the starter solenoid (the part with the two red caps) is then ran down the frame rail towards the coil. (the coil is bolted to the frame and is covered by a black rubber boot) The enricher plug is usually in that area, between the starter solenoid and the coil. Could even be farther forward than the coil as the wires from the enricher are longer than they need to be for this model scooter. (one size fits all) My wires doubled back on themselves and the plug was between the two parts previously mentioned. Take hold of the enricher wires where them meet the frame and gently push/pull on them and watch for movement along the frame rail. That should lead you down the right path.
When I watched your second to last video I noticed that your carb wasn't connected securely. This could allow too much air in causing runability issues too. The intake manifold (black rubber mount in front of the carb) has a slot in it that when properly mounted keeps the carb on straight. When the tab on the carb is in the slot you know that the carb is in the right position. The air intake on the back of the carb needs to be pushed up tight all the way around the rear opening of the carb and both clamps need to be snugged down to prevent air leaks. Hope this helps.
You are doing just fine! Being willing to get into the insides is 90% of the battle. You've got a great scooter there and it will be running good again soon.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 10, 2011 17:38:35 GMT -6
I would imagine that something designed for a Japanese motorcycle would have different gearing than something designed for a Chinese scooter. It could fit but throw your readings off. What I said above was directed at Chinese scooters.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 10, 2011 15:49:48 GMT -6
So if the gears are the same for a 16" wheel and a 10" wheel, where do the different speedo systems adapt for the difference in the rotation speed? Is the speedo head specific for a certain size wheel so it reads correctly? A 10" wheel is going to turn a helluva lot more times in one mile than a 16" wheel. Rich If a 10 inch wheeled scooter and a 16 inch wheeled scooter use the exact same speedo drive hub, then the compensation would have to be in the speedometer head. What I was trying to tell Skikman was that if the drive unit he was looking at was the exact same as his old one it wouldn't change the reading on his speedometer regardless of the one inch difference in wheel size. Sometimes I see what I want to say in my head but it doesn't come out clearly.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 10, 2011 13:24:37 GMT -6
From what I've seen, the gearing on these speedo drive units of a certain type are all geared the same whether they are mounted on 10 inch, 12 inch, 13 inch or 16 inch wheel. As long they all fit the same size axle shaft it should make no difference on your speedometer readings. Wheel and tire size are usually the determining variable in speedo gear ratios.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 10, 2011 12:57:29 GMT -6
Is your enricher on the carb already plugged in to another connector somewhere else on the right side of your scooter? If so then the plug in your video is probably just an extra not used on your model.
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new scooter
by: gatekeeper - Jun 26, 2011 12:35:03 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Jun 26, 2011 12:35:03 GMT -6
Nice pictures Luke. I think they look kind of nice. Especially in blue...
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Why ask Why
by: gatekeeper - Jun 26, 2011 11:46:29 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Jun 26, 2011 11:46:29 GMT -6
I agree cookees. An armed society is a polite society. And by the way Luke, I've always had guns around. Gotten mad many times and never once pulled one out and shot anyone. It usually boils down to the value one places on human life. Those that don't value it will always find an implement to kill with. Even their bare hands.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 26, 2011 0:45:21 GMT -6
I think if all one is doing is making quick 5 to 10 minute trips to the corner market and such, what with idling at stoplights along the way, you are not going to get a full recharge. If you have a good battery and your scooter starts quickly you probably won't notice it as longer rides tend to find their way into the mix. If you have a hard starting scooter and/or your battery is past it's prime and draws down quickly, these short trips add up. One day you walk out of the store with that half gallon of ice cream and your starter doesn't spin.
If everything is in good shape, in my opinion, I think 20 to 30 minutes of solid riding (no idling) will bring the battery back up to a full recharge.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 25, 2011 15:18:33 GMT -6
I think most scooters headlights dim somewhat at idle, I know mine does. I think that is the nature of their charging systems. The engine needs to be at or above a certain rpm for full charging output and that is normally above idle speed.
I see from your other post that you checked all of your wiring connections. I would next make sure all ground points are in firm contact with bare metal. Weak grounds cause resistance to the flow electricity and could have a negative impact on your charging rate.
Short rides also can drain the battery over time as even a properly charging scooter doesn't recharge the battery as fast as automotive alternators. So with each start up you are taking more out than the short ride is putting back in.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 25, 2011 14:54:03 GMT -6
Rich, thank you for the link. Well, I'm back from my test ride. Everything seems to be Ok. It starts easy warm or cold. It idles good. It runs and accelerates smoothly at any throttle setting. No hesitation at all. I think I'm done. The only thing I might be noticing is a slight loss of top end speed. That might be due to the weather as it is rather windy out here today. I'm also running less air pressure in the tires than the last time I opened it up. I've always been somewhat good with engines of all kinds but I've never worked much on scooters before. It was easier mentally for me to tear into this knowing that I had you guys to fall back on in case I got in over my head. Thank you.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 25, 2011 0:14:38 GMT -6
Ok, I replaced the fuel lines tonight after work. She started up and settled into a good idle. I didn't see any leaking so I went and ate dinner while I let it run. Revved it up a few times and she sounded good. Checked everywhere and no leaking gas anywhere. ;D I put the body back together and when I was done I had no left over screws and I didn't even break anything.
It was getting dark and I'd had a long day so the test ride will have to wait until tomorrow. Hopefully I won't even have to play with the A/F mixture. We'll see.
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gas mileage
by: gatekeeper - Jun 23, 2011 20:14:16 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Jun 23, 2011 20:14:16 GMT -6
You could try increasing your tire pressure. A stiffer tire will decrease rolling resistance. That should translate into a little increase in MPG. Too much air pressure will make the bumps harder though.
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 23, 2011 15:30:42 GMT -6
Yes Rich, it is a side air box. Thanks Sprocket, I had to look all over town but I finally found some. At the town's only motorcycle shop. Duh, what was I thinking! That should have been my first stop. Got to get ready for work so I'll replace the hoses tomorrow.
I did get the carburetor off and apart. It was pretty clean and the float valve seemed to operate as it should and has a nice smooth rubber tip. There was just a couple of flecks of something blue in the bowl. It did appear that the float valve was a little out of adjustment so I slightly lowered the level that the float should make the valve engage. Some of the tiny holes in the tube that the main jet screws into were plugged so I cleaned everything well.
Put the carb back together and put it back on the scooter. I will install the new lines tomorrow and see if it leaks any more.
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