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Post by gatekeeper on May 21, 2012 17:10:31 GMT -6
That white insulator says you're too lean.
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Post by gatekeeper on May 21, 2012 16:52:50 GMT -6
I don't know if your scooter has one or not but it sounds like a bad blocking diode. A diode only lets current flow one way. When they go bad they allow current to flow both ways so power gets around the switch to the lights when the key is off.
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tuperware
by: gatekeeper - Apr 21, 2012 22:58:38 GMT -6
Post by gatekeeper on Apr 21, 2012 22:58:38 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Apr 16, 2012 3:32:50 GMT -6
I like it! Small, easy to handle and cleans up in an instant!! ;D
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Post by gatekeeper on Oct 18, 2011 18:12:56 GMT -6
Your scoot looks just like mine. The black portion of the front faring comes off separately from the rest of the nose. There are either two of four screws that hold it on. (the number of screws depends on the "brand") The screws are located on the back side of the front faring, about next to where your knees are when you are in the riding position. Take those out then pull the top of the panel forward. The bottom of the panel is held in place by a tab that should unhook as you pull the top forward.
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Post by gatekeeper on Oct 15, 2011 14:42:05 GMT -6
out) and also im having a hard time w the ignition cable which I figured I would. I unscrewed both gold nuts from each end of the threaded cylendar thing but I dont know how to get the threaded cylendar thing out of the little c shaped part on the carb. Unhook the end of the cable first then turn the whole ignition cable to unscrew it out? Unscrew the bottom nut (the one next to the inner part of the cable) and let it rest on the inner cable. Now take hold of the round piece the cable end attaches to and turn it, manually opening the throttle on the carb. This should give you enough slack in the cable end to rotate it and slide it sideways out of the round piece. Now that the cable end is free you should be able to pull the threaded barrel part of the cable out of 'c' shaped part you are talking about. Once the threaded barrel part is clear you can slide the inner part of the cable sideways out of the 'c' part. There, now it is clear as mud!
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Post by gatekeeper on Oct 7, 2011 0:16:01 GMT -6
My Adly did that a couple of weeks ago. Once I got it home I pulled the sparkplug out and placed my finger over the hole and turned the motor over with the electric starter. Felt no compression while doing this. Pulled the valve cover off and found one of the exhaust valves stuck open.
It is currently at the dealer to find out the extent of the damage and to see how well Adly's warranty is going to work.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 30, 2011 22:39:52 GMT -6
Comes in from the left side through the frame to the rear of the carb. Don't know how to post more than one pic per post. Attachments:
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 30, 2011 22:36:02 GMT -6
Looks similar to the one on my Adly. Mounts on top of the CVT. Air snorkel routes in from the left and attaches to the rear of the carb. Attachments:
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 21:15:38 GMT -6
gatekeeper wow the gel one is snazzy looking You dont think i should go with gel because it performs better over a wide temp range or does that mainly mean for colder temps?] They are supposed to perform better in both extreme cold and extreme heat. Something I can't attest to living in Washington State. Does look pretty cool though doesn't it. The reason I have it in my Adly is because of the sideways mounting. No possibility of spills.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 21:10:05 GMT -6
You may be right Cruiser. I have never opened up one of those portable jump starter units. They do look like those batteries I've seen in emergency lighting units and alarm systems, made to put out a little power over a long period of time.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 20:58:08 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 20:25:13 GMT -6
They are a maintenance free type battery that uses a type of matting inside making them almost spill proof. they come loaded, no fluid to fill before use. They tend to last longer than conventional lead acid batteries.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 20:06:08 GMT -6
Well I use a 5 amp hour battery in mine and I haven't had a problem in 5 months since I put it in. However, We don't get near as much heat in Washington State as you do down there. (Rats!!) And there I am wondering whether or not the charging system in these 50cc scoots is up to being able to keep a 9 amp battery fully charged, especially with the kind of riding you do. Sometimes bigger isn't always better. (I know, say it isn't so!!) If it was me I'd put a dress on your scoot and bring her inside at night and hook it to the charger. If your landlord complains, tell him she's your sister! Seriously, If you think you need a new battery I would still go with a 7 amp hour since it fits in yours. Get the AGM type as the tend to hold a charge a little better than the conventional ones. Like I said earlier, some of the original equipment brands don't last too long once they are put in service. I got my battery from TMS Motorsports off of Ebay. Don't know if their 7 amp ones will fit or not, I'll have to look. Do you have a volt/amp/ohm meter to measure your scoots charging output? If you don't you can get them for under 10 bucks at places like Harbor Freight. Handy things to have around the house. Extreme heat, extreme cold and short trips are hard on batteries for all vehicles, not just scooters. So you are batting 2 out of three. Maybe the dress isn't such a bad idea. ;D
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 19:49:11 GMT -6
These types of batteries are not designed to be used in motor vehicle applications. They are used in the electronics industry for back up power supplies. While they may "work", they would probably wear out pretty quickly. They are made to put out a little power over a long period of time, not the short bursts of high power we use for starting engines.
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