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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 14:38:14 GMT -6
Hmm, maybe if I took my time and was really gentle.....
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 11, 2011 13:44:13 GMT -6
Yours must have a larger battery box in than mine because mine won't fit a 6 inch long battery.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 10, 2011 22:59:24 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 10, 2011 14:11:19 GMT -6
Good going so far! Question; the way the starter is acting in your video, starting and stopping while you continually are holding the start button down, did it act this way before you took the CVT cover off or just since the cover has come off? If it is just happening since the cover came off there may be nothing wrong. There is a lot of torque coming from the starter motor and the cover provides the second anchor point for the bendix. Without that pilot bushing in the cover there is a lot of sideways force being applied to the bendix. It might be enough to cause the gears to bind momentarily.
If the bendix is slightly oily or greasy I'd leave it like that, or clean it with carb cleaner and then apply a little bit of lithium grease.
the bendix appears to function as it should. It doesn't matter that it isn't spinning out to meet the larger gear when you turn it by hand. The faster spin of the starter, centrifugal force is what does it. If you were to take the bendix out and hold it in both hands then turn it, it would probably move out then.
I wipe down the inside of the CVT cover every time I take it off. Over time, built up dust/grease helps hold in heat and you want the CVT to shed as much heat as possible.
Be careful to not let any grease/oil, new or old, get on the belt or the belt drive faces of the front and back pullies.
Lastly, I don't remember if you bought a new battery for this scooter or not. Some of these original equipment batteries start to break down quickly and not hold a good charge for long after being put into service.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 4, 2011 21:44:18 GMT -6
Also, be careful if you engage the starter button with the cover off. The bendix is normally supported on both ends. With the CVT cover off the bendix has no support from the pilot bushing that it normally rides in on the left (outward) side. Without that support it may want to come out or wobble sideways when the starter is engaged and it makes contact with the variator gear teeth.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 4, 2011 20:32:07 GMT -6
The cover comes off pretty easily. There are 8 bolts you have to take out, 4 along the top and 4 along the bottom. Take note, one of the bottom bolts secures a bracket that holds the rear brake cable and one of the top bolts secures a bracket that hold a vacuum or vent line. Remember where the brackets go for when you put it all back together.
Once the 8 bolts are out just pull the cover straight off. It might be stuck on tight as there are 2 guide pins in place between the cover and the engine case to align it properly. Don't lose those.If it won't pull off easily just tap the cover with a rubber hammer or gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver. Once the cover starts to separate watch that you don't tear the paper gasket, as you can re-use it. If it does tear up no biggie as you don't really need it.
There is no need to take the kick start lever off first because the shaft it attaches to is mounted to the inside of the cover. It is the 150cc motors that you must take the kick start off of first.
There is also probably a large plastic or rubber vent tube mounted on the forward facing edge of the cover, usually held on with a screw clamp. Taking this off first might make it easier to remove the cover.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 1, 2011 13:38:00 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 31, 2011 2:21:28 GMT -6
Sduckers, the battery is under the rubber floormat. Pull the floormat up on the right hand side and you will see the battery compartment lid. It is held on by three screws. Take them out, remove the lid and you will see the battery. Make sure the battery has a full charge. Charge it with a 2 amp or less charger for a few hours.
If the battery is turning the engine over quickly like it did when you were able to start it, but it is not starting now, I suspect that Alleyoop is correct and you need to follow his advice and adjust the valves.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 22, 2011 22:28:10 GMT -6
I think he was referring to using the old petcock as a fuel nipple when installing an inline shut off valve. By removing or destroying the diaphragm in the petcock, fuel would flow from both nipples. You would just want to use the one nipple so you would plug the vacuum nipple as it would no longer be needed for operation. If this was done you would also want to plug the vacuum line so you wouldn't have any vacuum leaks in the system.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 22, 2011 20:12:30 GMT -6
There is a radiator. It is under the body cover panel directly in front of the seat between where your feet sit. Use the key to open the locked cover on this panel to access the overflow tank. It should be 1/2 to 3/4's of the way full. To fill the radiator directly, open the seat. On the left side under the seat towards the back is a small panel held on by two screws. Under that is the radiator cap. The filler pipe should be full. Use a 50-50 mix of anti freeze (safe for aluminum) and water. Look thru the library section on how to rid your cooling system of air so that the coolant flows freely. Also check to see if your radiator fan is cycling on and off as it should. If all appears as it should it may be that the inside passages are gunked up and need to be flushed out. Or it could be that the thermostat is malfunctioning. The engine should be the Honda 244cc clone. If it is, there is a manual for the Honda Helix in the library section that shows the cooling system for your engine. scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=cooling
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 16, 2011 16:08:55 GMT -6
I'll leave you in Alley's capable hands cause I've got to go to work. I will check on your progress though as the night progresses. Hang in there and you'll get it. You're doing great!
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 16, 2011 14:19:39 GMT -6
Gatekeeper, What the hell are you an ECHO Alley I don't try to be but I don't type very fast. When I started you hadn't answered yet but was there when I finished and posted. I'm going to go and top off my 250 to see if that cools it down.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 16, 2011 12:46:42 GMT -6
Pull the coil wire cap off the spark plug that is mounted in the engine. Take a spare spark plug and push it into the coil wire cap. lay the spare spark plug on a metal part of the engine so that the metal end of the spare plug is touching metal on the engine. A good place is in front of the black intake manifold that the carb mounts to. just let it lay there touching metal to metal. then while watching the spare plug try to start it like you normally do. (it won't start but that is OK) watch the spare plug gap area while the engine is cranking and look for a spark at the gap. If you see spark, take the cap off the spare plug and put it back on the plug mounted in the engine.
Now pull the vacuum line off the intake manifold and squirt some gas into the nipple. Replace the vacuum line and crank the engine to see if it fires.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 14, 2011 23:55:38 GMT -6
Should I suck these hoses before the scooter is warmed up, or right after it dies? I don't want like hot fluids in my mouth. LMAO. Ya know its really hard to talk about petcocks and sucking hoses w/ out it sounding wrong ;D A good sense of humor AND a great looking scoot! Now that's just a win - win situation right there. ;D
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 14, 2011 17:30:24 GMT -6
As far as the petcock is concerned you can see everything you need to just by taking out the seat bucket.
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