Clinician
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jun 24, 2018 12:46:32 GMT -6
I had a scooter that went through belts way to often and finally bought another. by chance they were side by side with the belt covers off and out of the corner of my eye I saw that the belt issue scooter was not truly aligned from variator to rear pulley so that the belt was not straight and why I was building up so much more heat and shredding belts. I never really looked into the cause because someone bought it for parts but it's worth looking into. Maybe one of the two pulleys had an extra washer or the need of one to line them up properly. the new scoot (and the one that was bad were both unboxed new by me)never had that issue.
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Clinician
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 21, 2018 9:31:50 GMT -6
I had what seemed a bit on again off again with with slow cranking for a short time regardless of how good the battery was that in reality quickly became only slow cranking. I took the starter out and found it was full of oil. This being a 150 the starter is mounted on the right side with direct oil contact and the starter clutch and the seal around the starter shaft was bad. If yours is a 50cc the chances are this isn't the problem due to it being mounted on the left and engages a gear directly behind the variator and is zero contact with oil.
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Clinician
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Post by dyoung1167 on Aug 9, 2017 18:49:23 GMT -6
my father always boiled dirty carbs in white vinegar. a bit stinky for the house so a grill for this would be helpful. I do not remember if it was in the pot as heated or put in after the boiling started but but i can say, we never once bought a new carb or even rebuild kits and i'm talking 6 very frequently used and abused dirt bikes.
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Clinician
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Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 26, 2017 9:22:03 GMT -6
all what they said, but the tire should not be trying to turn, that is going to glaze the pads making them slippery and you will get a very jerky start as they try to grab from a stop but can't really until enough rpms make them grab. while on the center stand idling, you should be able to freely turn the wheel by hand in either direction. i like mine to idle low enough to be just over stalling out yet running very steady.
the best way is to start at the 2 1/2 turns out with the mixture, then use the set screw for the throttle/butterfly valve to lower it.
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Clinician
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cam timing?
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 26, 2017 9:09:56 GMT -6
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 26, 2017 9:09:56 GMT -6
and when i say visually i mean just that, i can see directly into the spark plug hole and watch the piston move.
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Clinician
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Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 26, 2017 9:06:40 GMT -6
check where the fairing goes around the steering column as they can rub against the wires and at the bottom where the right to left "stops" are as i have had wires get pinched there either grounding it or cutting it off completely
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Clinician
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cam timing?
by: dyoung1167 - Apr 26, 2017 9:00:11 GMT -6
Post by dyoung1167 on Apr 26, 2017 9:00:11 GMT -6
my lazy butt drove my scooter 150cc qmj for a good while with the lack of the lower cam tension/guide. it actually ran fairly well with the exception of it reverse firing 1,2 maybe 3 times before running. by that i mean it would try to send the piston backwards and stop rotation dead in its tracks. i figured this was due to a slack cam chain.
Anyway, i finally replaced said guide and now have proper tension and i am able to visually see that the piston is reaching exactly TDC as the whole in the cam sprocket gets to center. that said there is of course about a tooth or half a tooth or so play just after this meaning it is still tdc but the alignment whole would be slightly forward of center.
what i'm getting at is the scooter is still giving me these firing in reverse moments before it finally runs. should i try putting it one tooth back? or would it not help? nothing about the spark or spark timing has changed although i'm under the impression that i could ever so slightly retard the timing at the pickup without any true mods and not sure what little i could get would matter anyway.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 21:40:54 GMT -6
it is chromed with no tool markings and no center, meaning i know it is NOT a rivet. click the pick and you will see
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 12:59:24 GMT -6
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Post by dyoung1167 on Nov 6, 2016 12:59:01 GMT -6
going to remove the intake manifold on qlink peg. the other side is of course a regular bolt but this has no gripping edge, no marks lilke someone just messed it, in fact it is chromed. i couldn't tell ya how it was even tightened.
has anyone run into this and am i just missing something? some odd trick? i even tried to turn the whole thing hoping to maybe loosen it but not willing to try to hard and break anything.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jul 16, 2016 11:54:08 GMT -6
trade the port on the new carb with the one from your old carb (just the cover, keep the new diaphram), and i don't see any mention of checking/adjusting valves. they are often a reason for not starting.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jul 5, 2016 21:45:12 GMT -6
take a carefull look at the alignment of the cvt and clutch. i went through belts bad with my first scoot and noticed how out of whack it was, but of course, only after getting a new scoot. an extra and not needed or needed but not there washer can be a big difference
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 22, 2016 15:04:12 GMT -6
i'm not sure why but i get this too, always have. something about making the tire more ridged with the brake tight at idle and sitting still allows the normal vibration of the motor to be more pronounced though the frame. it has never caused a problem though.
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Post by dyoung1167 on May 1, 2016 11:42:28 GMT -6
i don't see changing the bulbs to a lower wattage would help, they are getting too much voltage or current whence it is blowing bulbs. my thoughts are your r/r is not doing its job and allowing too high a voltage to the lighting circuit but also check to ensure the headlight harness ground is well and good, a bad ground can cause a larger inline load (current draw).
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Post by dyoung1167 on Mar 6, 2016 11:52:56 GMT -6
valves.
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