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some times mine does that, a little jab at kickstarter gets it back into working order, almost like it's missing a tooth but i don't think so. probably just sticking as the spin should push it into place to engage

Ok, so several years ago i did an 11 pole 3 phase/fullwave up grade on an older scoot. it was a 5 wire set up. stator had five - 3 for r/r and 2 for cdi and triger. no probs. initial scoot needed wire for rear running light connected to dc as no more ac for it. no prob. worked pretty good. car pulled in front of me and totaled scoot. got another crapty arse franken scoot to swap motors and keep getting it. totally no thoughts about rear running light but it worked. I now have a new ice bear 150 hurican with new engine deciding to spew oil from air filter box as that's were the over pressure line from valve cover goes and decided to to replace with older engine with full wave 11 pole stator. in the process i decided to test the r/r and found it defective so i order another "5" wire full wave r/r as that is exactly what was paired with stator new (they were a set). rear running light is of course ac so i ran a new dc wire for it and of course changed over headlights to dc also. seemed to work, until the next day. now my headlights and blinkers take turns being on and my the blinkers are bleeding to other side, as in left blinker on is bright but right blinker is also on but dim. most r/r's i first saw were 6 wire but since original was5 thats what i eventually searched for and bought. what the hell is the 6th wire for if i bought one or is there one that would simply take over as yellow from the half wave original so i only need to to convert the headlights from ac

thinking it's the typical crap bulb that i cannot think to name but can be replaced with h4 as the base used in the crap bulbs also gets replaced, but probably need to buy the connector too as they do not match but easy and cheap. most direct bulb only leds are also junk

to begin you can change how high the main needle in the carbe to ride higher making run a bit richer but probably not help with your prob as it is more likely the idle jet causing the lean after throttle drop. kits with numerous size of both low speed and high speed jets are fairly cheap and easy to mess with. there are probably threads on here to better explain and many ytube vids out there.

i will say that it is a what ya call it ca head for emissions that has been properly blanked at the cylinder block and a non emissions head and valve cover. this was changed just a few weeks ago do to a broken exhaust manifold bolt. I have done this before on an older scoot without causing this. It seems to run fine with descent takeoff and power so i don't think i'm loosing any compression. could it be maybe a badly done valve adjustment? Maybe one tooth off in one direction or another with the timing chain? Like said, i've done this type of thing before without issue but want a more precise place to start before i start tearing crap apart. I don't remember trying so damn hard to get piston at true tdc and the valve sprocket exactly center the first time as i did with this one so is there maybe a slight offset i may have missed?

has it ever ran? one thing i hate on new scoots is the damn need for kickstand to be up. very hard to get to switch itself but i was able to locate a connector for said switch and unplug it

yes but no, it cannot be both xenon and led. If it actually is led then no because most scoots are running the headlights with ac from the stator, so it needs rewired for dc