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I am also a disabled Nam Vet, just take you time. You will go broke if you take it to a PRO. And believe when I say this, THERE ARE no pros out there that you can take it to that know how to tune a CVT. Most of the scooter mechanics all they know how to do is Charge you 1 hr labor to replace a part. They do not KNOW HOW TO DIAGNOSE a problem let alone tune a CVT.

The first thing you have to do is Take the Variator out and WEIGH the weights that are in there. If you do not have a small Digitial scale in GRAMS take one to your post office and have them weigh it for you.

Now knowing the current gram of the WEIGHTS and the RPMS and the TOP SPEED your running at. I can help you decide which gram weights to get. I can tell you what rpms you will be running with the different gram weights and if it will be strong in the mid-range and good top end.
How does that sound my friend
Alleyoop

You have 16 gram rollers and a quart of schwarzgrasse in your variator now. That's too heavy to climb hills two up.

I managed to get to 11,000 feet up in Santa Fe, but it was pretty slow, and I was even solo on the B.

I invested in some Dr Pulley sliders and bought 12, 14, and 16 grams. After several attempts at incorrect installation, and different combinations of 12/14, 12/16/, and 14/16, I outfitted both my B's with 12/16 sliders after cleaning out the scwarzgrasse, and still have a complete set of 14s left over.

The blue B ran a little slow on the takeoff with good midrange response and a top end of 75 chinese. Hill climbing was improved, but not stellar. The boss in the variator developed a crusty cheese around the axle and slowed performance, so after cleaning the sliders were replaced with 14/16 rollers, but by now it had 9,000 miles on it and developed another limp.
It is now awaiting termination after a wreck.

The red B has been cruising fine with the 12/16 sliders, I rode it to work this morning, and I'm still toying with changing back to all 14 rollers, or the all 14 sliders, but with the colder air these days, and 742 idle mixture adjustments, it's running pretty good, and I'm confident I can hit 80 on a straightaway, and hold 60 on a hill.

I did mount the Dragon Custom Double Shot exhaust, which is awesome, and opened the airbox to remove the stock filter and replace it with a 42mm free flow, it fits just stuck in there, and have 40 pilot and 125 main jets.

It starts and idles pretty good after 9 valve adjustments and 6,000 miles, so you'll reach an equilibrium pretty soon once you get broken in, even if you don't go all mod happy.

You won't, will you?

It would cost about $300, and you'd be spending countless dreary winter hours wrenching and cussing and breaking and fixing and trying and finding and hoping and wishing, and then it'll be springtime and you can see daylight again.

ON A CUSTOM HARD CHARGING LINHAI 257!!!

Of course, you have the 244 but I don't know anything about those, you'll have to work it over and let us know what you get, but since it's such a smoothie, I'd rather see you abuse the Linhai, they're tough, they can take it.

Y'all: I bought a 2011 150 MC-75 a month ago. I love it. But it was delivered with the valves at zero (or minus!) clearance. I set them to .004". Then yesterday a I bought the wife an MC-16, "vintage" Vespa style 150, 30 days assembled 150KM sold cheap 'cause it wouldn't start when hot. Guess what? It was the valves, again zero or less clearance. I had to drive it home, 100 miles (whew, what fun, thru the Cinci ghettoes at sunset!), and hope it was the intake not exhaust bleeding compression when hot. 300KM on a tight exhaust might be enough to burn the valve (opinions?). But now it is set and runs like a top. 10" wheels accelerate faster than 13. Anyway, SET YOUR VALVES FIRST THING ON DELIVERY!